Pin pushers

[J.W. Harris]

>Thanks for the feedback on the connectors. 
>
>ON the "pin pushers" I have used various paper clips,
>home made extracters, etc. Also seen to LOOSE them
>someplace. ;-(
>
>In the autoparts store, Leslie(?) brand tools (red & white
>packaging) sells an "automotive" pin pusher... about
>six common "pin pushers" all connected to an hex piece
>of green anodized aluminum. Cost about $10... 
>
>
>> If your'e in a bind, the larger 
>> weatherpack pins can be reused if a you carefully make a 
>> reliable soldered 
>> connection.
>
>Quick comment on soldering "under the hood".  If a cable is fully
>strain relieved, then soldering is OK... BUT, If the solder "wicks"
>down the cable, it will make a stiff wire meet a flexible cable
>(at the point where the solder stopped wicking). With vibration, and
>time, the wire will break at that point.  (Use of a heat sink on
>the wire prevents this problem.)
>
>Favorite connectors: Molex brand crimp and "heat shrink" style.
>The heat shrink has an internal melt glue, resulting in a weather
>proof connection. (Usually a package of 10 cost $5.00 - OUCH!)
>
>[Years back I used to run Pro-Rally cars, and build harnesses for
>some of the teams (ugh!). Thankfully no DNF's from wiring problems...
>only trees in the wrong places. ;-)
>
>Sorry to be so wordy, but in looking over old messages I haven't
>seen too much on the "wiring end" of the business.  Hopefully someone
>will find this type of info usefull.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Tom Walter				
>Austin, TX.
>
>P.S. For those around AUSTIN: I picked up some big bags of heat
>shrink tubing (five year shelf life - expired 6/95). If you need
>some, drop me an email. 
>
>
>
Yes, this is a very important point.  Solder that has wicked up the wire 
will cause it to fatigue and crack in short order.  Use a very hot iron and 
work quickly to produce a good joint without making a "cold" joint.  

When using the weather-pack connectors with round pins, crimp the wire with 
the first set of tabs in the center and bend the wire up from the pin as shown:

Insulated wire --|Stripped 

================
             || \ ||
             ----------- >>>>>>>  <----Pin

Second tabs      First Tabs ||

Solder and slide the already installed rubber grommet up the wire to the pin 
and crimp the second pair of tabs around it. This will allow the wire to 
pass through the center of the grommet.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris at kocrsv01.delcoelect.com