DIY_EFI Digest V1 #290

[talltom]

>
>From: cloud at hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
>Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 15:06:09 -0500
>Subject: Re: EEC IV reprogramming *** [THE LIST] ***
>
>Man, did I stir sumpin up or what?  Lots of people seem to be interested.
>
>Here is my current list of who I've found that are specifically interested
>in EEC-IV (or has offered an opinion).  None of these has said they want out.
>I don't know which of these is getting duplicate postings because they are
>on diy_efi or FordNatics -- or both.
>
>I would like to think that all of you would subscribe to diy_efi??  I
>don't want to start a new list -- don't know how, don't wanna know how.
>I just wanna be able to fiddle with my Fords !! (Just like the rest of
>you.)
>
>I teach a class where students have to build a project (including
>a simple PCB).  I can always tell who has experience -- the guy that
>wants to lay out a PCB or design a circuit doesn't have any.  If he did,
>he'd know how time intensive it is and that a 3-1/2 month semester
>is too short (some folks do pull it off, though -- takes real intestinal
>fortitude).  Well, I'd like to know all about the EEC.  I know that if
>I had all the tools: code, assembler, C++ compiler, debugger, logic
>analyzer, 'scope, EPROM burner, computer, tools, and money (and I have
>all of those -- except for the code, assembler, debugger and money),
>I still wouldn't have the time.  Seems like Mike's doo-dad is the best
>deal for the money -- if we could only get one.  Isn't a real problem
>for me, though, since I'm not really quite ready for it just yet anyway.
>
>Josh <bozak at newworld.bridge.net>
>Alex Cazin <acazin at interlog.com>
>Derek Deeter <derek_deeter at MENTORG.COM>
>Tom Cloud <cloud at peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
>Dave Compton <dcompton at jnpcs.com>
>Jim Dibble <dibble at peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
>Pat <pdonleycott at vnet.ibm.com>
>Craig Eid <craige at tiger.sr.hp.com>
>Terry Fair <tfair at bjservices.com>
>Gary Graham <GEGnTx at aol.com>
>Todd King <Todd_King at ccm.co.intel.com>
>Todd Knighton <knighton at net-quest.com>
>Cliff Koch <koch at cae.cig.mot.com>
>Jonathan Lloyd <john at anergy.demon.co.uk>
>George Najarian <najay at deltanet.com>
>Bob Nell <bnell at utk.edu>
>James Pearl <jvp at qsi.com>
>Bradford Peterson <bp3084m at tmp.medtronic.com>
>Sven Pruett <vanir at gnn.com>
>Eric Riggert <riggert at nb.rockwell.com>
>Steve Sadler <ssadler at odyline.com>
>Jody Shapiro <jshapiro at token.net>
>"Dr. Shidel; BA, BS, MS, PhD" <shidel at suntan.eng.usf.edu>
>Dan Stokes <dstokes at mail.coin.missouri.edu>
>James Weiler <james at brc.ubc.ca>
>Donald Whisnant <dewhisna at ix.netcom.com>
>Travis Willis <svt at starlink.com>
>
>Thanks,
>Tom Cloud

There's an outfit on the web that advertises reprogramable eec's, with a
price that's
not totally ridicoulous. I enquired and they replied with a request for more 
vehicle info. Maybe it's me, but when somebody can't provide product info 
without trying some propietary single vehicle scam I lose interest in a hurry.
My reply to them stated that if they had to have a particular vehicle use 
a 54 cornbinder, thought that would give them a good baseline. Guess what?
No reply!
   My cornbinder is turbocharged, has injection provisions, and 500 cu. in.
Anyhow,
I'm looking for a tool that can be used on all cars if the right sensors and
wiring
are put in place, not something that has to be junked with every car.

  Anyhow, if anything like this comes out of this, add me to the list.   
 
>------------------------------
>
>From: "Johnny" <allnight at everett.net>
>Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 16:17:50 -0700
>Subject: Re: Wires and such
>
>AMP makes a pretty good one for about 80 bucks. It comes with one set of
>dies for your regular "car type" crimp connectors and many other die sets
>are available, like for BNC's etc. It pays to use "real" connectors too.
>The AMP connectors give good results, and they make just about any
>connector you can think of.
>
>Like David said, soldering don't cut it when you are talking about wires
>that move around. Even wires that attach to a circuit board are (gasp)
>wrapped, not soldered, when used in high vibration environments.
>
>Once you have used a real crimper on real connectors... well, the next time
>you are at Al's and you see that glorious $6.95 connector kit with the
>crimper and the the connectors you will enjoy snickering as you pass by. If
>you want a real good laugh, just ask the doofass behind the counter "hey,
>where do you keep the real crimpers".
>
>- -j-
>
>- ----------
>> From: Steve Ciciora <scicior at uswest.com>
>> To: diy_efi at coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject: Re: Wires and such
>> Date: Friday, September 27, 1996 12:14 PM
>> 
>> > 
>> > Okay, you said it, but did anyone get it?? If you're gonna crimp -- and
>> > want it to be reliable -- hafta use the right tool!!  Trust me, it's
>> > not the Champ or Klein you gots in your tool box.  A good tool that
>> > works on most crimp-ons costs between $35 and $50.  Snap-ON sells one
>> > (Forget who really makes it).
>> > 
>> 
>> I once had to buy a mil-spec crimper to crimp a PTO6A-14-12C bendix 
>> connector to get power from a ER-2 (U-2) spy plane... I believe
>> the crimper ran about $300!  There is a difference in aircraft
>> crimp connectors and automotive crimp connectors...
>> - Steven Ciciora
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: smtjr at mail.utexas.edu (steve m trindade)
>Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 21:10:50 -0500
>Subject: Re: Checking fuel pressure?
>
>mike,
>i am not sure if it would work or not, but I wouldn't recommend it. they do 
>make special high pressure gauges specifically for measuring fuel pressure. 
>in my experience i have never seen a test port that was a schrader valve 
>anyway. there is another benefit to using the right test gauge. they screw 
>on and seal and usually come with a fairly long hose. with this you can 
>usually go for a drive with the gauge peeking from under the cowl of the 
>hood so you can read while you drive. that's where you get your good 
>information from.
>
>
>Steve Trindade (smtjr at mail.utexas.edu)
>P1 Engineering
>Austin, Tx. USA
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: Shaun Brady <sbrady at pacific.pacific.net>
>Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 20:06:25 -0700
>Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
>
>>Is your motorcycle engine air cooled? If so, did you run into problems 
>>with the larger expansion/contraction of air cooled's parts?
>
>The motor is a Honda Hawk.  647 cc, Liquid cooled, aluminum, V-Twin, 3
>Valves per cylinder.  I assembled the engine at a local shop that sponsers
>me, and while it sat on the bench an old car oval track racer came in and
>shared his experiences with coatings.  They were much more expensive in his
>day, and not widely known.  They coated an aluminum headed small block
>chevy's pistons and combustion chambers.  Initially they didn't see much of
>an improvement on the dyno, but they couldn't get the oil or water
>temperature into the normal range either.  After they had revised the
>cooling systems and carb jetting, they saw a 35 hp improvement on a 500 hp
>motor.  It startled me how close this comes to Vizards publications.  This
>was a fully developed motor configuration they had been using for years.
>The Hawk motor was good for 71 Hp from 40 cubes.  Stock was 42 Hp.  The
>motor had 11.5:1 compression, a fairly radical cam, cleaned up ports, stock
>valves, low restriction exhaust and intake systems.  The motor output is
>limited by the valve sizes, a really poor combustion chamber design, and an
>exhaust port with limitations similar to a Cleveland ford.  I selected a
>piston manufactured from a material that allowed tighter piston-bore
>clearances, coated it, and assembled the motor with clearances on the tight
>side of recommended.
>
>>Can you give more details of exactly what brand and type of coatings you 
>>used? Were they Jet Hot, or ceramic, or what?
>
>I used the Polydyn Coatings (713-694-3296), as mentioned in Vizards book.
>It was a very thin baked on coating, probably ceramic, probably serving a
>reflective rather than insulating function.  Summit (330-630-3030) sells 3
>oz bottles for less than $30.  There are separate coatings for Aluminum and
>Iron.  They are sprayed on and then baked at either 350 F (Al) or 450 F
>(Fe).  Polydyn Coats Piston tops for $14, combustion chambers $28, valves $5
>ea.  They will also do the backside of valves and exhaust ports.  I've seen
>Harley pistons for sale precoated with the other coating system Vizard
>mentions (Swain Technologies).  Friction reducing coatings are also popular
>among motorcycle racers, but I've heard their useful life on piston skirts
>is fairly short.  I spent more on the UPS than I did the coatings, and that
>was for little motorcycle parts. I'd like to do a 460 ford boat motor I'm
>building, but can't imagine the shipping costs this would involve, and will
>probably give the Summit coatings a try.
>
>I would think that everything you can do to keep the heat out of an air
>cooled motor would be a good thing.  Vizard suggests that the secondary
>modifications allowed by coatings would improve power further yet.  Things
>like narrower valve seats.  Tighter piston clearances are another
>posibility.  Do car guys use Nikasil bores yet?
>
>I see reference after reference to proffesional engine builders using these
>coatings, it is more than a fad.  If you can find someone who specializes in
>your engine, and will sell you a set of coated pistons, assemble them to the
>clearances they've developed.  Otherwise, your left with starting with the
>tight side of recommended.
>
>Good Luck
>
>SBrady
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of DIY_EFI Digest V1 #290
>*****************************
>
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>


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom