Cutting VATS out of the loop when mill swapping

[Terry Martin]

Most of the info is deadbeat easy to get the VATS out of the way when
stuffing a mill with a ECM programmed with VATS, (or PATS), into oh,
say, an Austin Mini. 

The simple way on the VATS (GM' PASSKey I, II, & III) ECM's is to get
the module on older models, and simply solder the resistor pellet out of
the the appropriate key across the lock cylinder circuit. Better yet,
modify an Immobilizer key and you get to keep all your hard work instead
of giving it up to joe asshole who wants your baby but doesn't want to
pay for it. The PROM can also be programmed for VATS OFF, but that takes
money.However, if your GM engine is coming out of anything equipped with
"PASSLOCK", you don't get the simple cheap option. This system is
probably easier to beat for a thief, but getting around the PROM
programming without sticking a dash and ignition lock cylindr in is a
bung deal. The ignition lock cylinder is equipped with a "Hall effect"
sensor which basically uses a magnet embedded in the lock plug, (the
turning part where you stick your key"), to rotate past a sensor
equipped with transistor switches which sequentially trip within a time
window to pass a signal along about three goddamn feet of wire from the
lock cylinder down the steering column, hang a right and go in behind
the dash, rotate up into a take-off attitude, climb up, hang a left, go
about just far enough to be goddamn fucking annoying because at this
point what you are getting out requires the removal of the top of the
dash,(fun unless you don't like de-certifying the passenger side air
bag), into the top right of the instrument cluster module, which in turn
detects a valid signal, (or not), and blows off over to the ECM/PCM
terminal go/no go. As far as I know, you have to reprogram the PROM on
these vehicles, or uh oh, no fuel delivery, starter feed, running
engine, or even a good feeling.

PATS equipped ECM/PCM/OBC alphabet soup controllers are way simpler. (No
GM products at the moment, but coming soon to a scrap yard near you).
Just don't bust the pick-up coil around the ignition lock cylnder when
pulling your gear. Simple means you get at least one working key for the
vehicle. You don't need the key, but you definitely need what's in the
key head. It's (well shut my mouth) a transponder. So don't forget to
get the receiver module. Anyhow, just glue the head of the key to the
ignition pickup coil and away you go. No key head, no go.

For details on which vehicle has wut, e-mail me. I'll post it back here
for all to see.

Terry