fuel rail

David Doddek pantera at pobox.com
Fri Jun 27 23:57:30 GMT 1997


><<Don't use copper plumbing... assuming its of the home depot or similar
>variety.
>
>While the copper tubing can take some pressure, I see two issues.  The
>solder (acid core) will be eaten from the inside, and in time leak, and
>second, the joints in time might fold or weaken under the 45 PSI typical of
>fuel injection.  I'd strongly recommend using steel fuel lines or steel
>piping to accomplish this.  These comments aren't based on my experience,
>I'm actually regurgitating what someone had told me, since I considered the
>same thing before I got the complete engine that I did.>>
>
>Also, copper lines will work harden due to the heat cycling of underhood
>temps and eventually break from the vibration.  Copper is also unlikely to
>be compatible with a wide array of fuel additives.  Two racecar building
>books I have specifically speak against the use of copper plumbing,
>especially for fuel.
>
>I use steel hard lines or aluminum rails in conjunction with braided steel
>reinforced lines.
>
>Ric Rainbolt
>
>
>
Copper is compatable with about almost anything but acid.  The big problem
with copper tubing is that it may flake of small bits of copper from the
manufacturing process that may plug up jets and stuff. Also copper is soft
and may damage or fatigue easily when exposed to vibration or foreign
objects, ie a rock.

David Doddek     pantera at pobox.com    www.pobox.com/~pantera    217-422-3722
69 EFI Fairlane, 89 T-bird SC, 74 Twin turbo NOS EFI Pantera #6825
If you are going to go fast, go real fast.




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