High Temp Coatings in a Turbo (Revisit: slightly off topic)

[d houlton x0710]

This is a re-cap of the thread a few weeks ago.  I ask this again as I now
have my turbo from a junk yard doner and want to clean it and the manifold
up a bit and coat it in the appropriate manner.  From all the input before,
this is what I gather to be the best advice.  Please let me know if anything
doesn't look right.


For the inside of the manifold and the inside of the turbine scroll housing
and its inlet and outlet (all cast iron):

  Sand blast and coat with:
     TLHB    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-3.html)
       or
     CBC3    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-2.html)
       or
     Black Satin (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-1.html)
       or
     Cermakrome  (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-1.html)
       or
     A combination of these (i.e. CBC3 first, buff, then Black Satin)  
       Any advantage to this?


  Is any one of these particularly better than the other?  I know Black
  Satin and Cermakrom are available from Summit and are water-based so
  you can bake them in the kitchen oven (if needed).



For the outside of the manifold and turbine housing:
  
  Nothing?  Coating here would tend to keep the heat in the metal.  The
  idea is to keep the heat in the exhaust gasses by coating the inside, but
  let the heat that does go to the metal escape to the outside air right?

  Maybe something that *isn't* a thermal barrier, but can take the heat and
  looks nicer than rusty cast iron?




For the inside of the scroll housing of the compressor and its inlet and
outlet:

    DFL-1    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-2.html)
        Then buff with Scotch Brite before assembly.

    Do you sandblast first?
  



For the outside of compressor:
  
  Nothing.




For the turbo shaft and bearings:

  Buff with Scitch Brite then coat with:
    WSX    (http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-2.html)




For the turbine and compressor blades and their housings:

  Nothing.  The barrier will likely be thick enough to cause damage
  due to heat expansion and tight tolerances.

  Although, DFL-1 goes on between .0005" and .0015" and can apparently be
  buffed to a .0002" thickness after application so it may work, but I don't
  know that I'd want to chance it.  Is that still too thick?





OR:

Hose the whole thing off with de-greaser, pre-lube with oil, slap it on
and don't worry about it.




All sand blasting is with fine sand at 40 psi with a suction-type blaster.  
No glass bead.  Blasted parts are cleaned with acetone before applying 
coating.



Tools:
  I have the compressor and will get the sand blaster for the job.  The
  parts are relatively small so I'll use an airbrush normally used for
  model airplanes.


Any more comments?


thanks
--Dan