Fixing cut harness

[Andrew W. Macfadyen]

I see some makes of heat shrink tubing now have an adhesive layer on the inside
to seal it to the insulation  -- never tried  yet as I bought a load in bulk a
while back

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen at mcn.net>
> Subject: Re: Fixing cut harness
>
> >> I'm helping a friend install an efi harness that was cut by the yard that
> >> took it out. I was just wondering what is the best way to reconnect it?
> Just
> >> solder away and put heat srink tubing on it?
> >>
> >> I've found braded wire to get brittle when soldered. Is there a way
> around this?
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >> Matt Beaubien
> >
> >There's such a thing as a butt connector with shrink tube
> >ends. Crimp the connector, melt the ends with a lighter, and
> >you have some nice, tight repairs.  Not just a shortcut,
> >either.  Recommended by GM and supplied in their wiring
> >repair kits.  Although, maybe not so good for braided wire.
> >Shannen
> >
> The vibration is only a problem if left unsupported.  I have never had
> a soldered wired fracture, and that's in 30 years give or take.
> With heat shrink don't over heat it.  Holding it inna flame is too hot.
> Use a heat gun, or some distance from the flame.  Use a touch
> of vaseline, or dielectric compound, inside the heat shrink, just a touch to
> keep water from accumulating.  Cable tie up+downstream
> of the splice to a other wires, or frame.  Bundled looms with cable ties
> dampen vibration very well. Don't leave wires blowing in the wind.
> Stagger the splices so if there is a chaff thru it ain't to another circuit,
> rather blow a fuse then energize something at the wrong time,
> specially NOS.
> HTH
> Bruce     Many of the CSH staffers remember cotton coverings, and
>                rubber insulation.  And the warm orange glow from the
>                radio at night.