Water/Akly Inj Recipe

Fri May 1 13:52:43 GMT 1998

I had saved this message from the Buick Grand National list, from a gent
named "Phil" who removed the detonation from his Turbo Buick 3.8/4.1L
engine, via alky.  He can run significantly more boost because of the below
methods.

I tried it on my supercharged Lincoln, however backed the equipment off the
car because I'm having a performance problem even without the supercharger
blowing any air (I think I have a weak injector, but the car has 80K hard
miles on it, so its reasonable).  Anyway, here is his recipe:

"Cheap" Alky Injection Recipe;

Intro.

The system that I have came up with utilizes some used parts that I had laying
around and a few new ones too. I don't guarantee as good results as I have
seen, but on the other hand some of you might experience better. You may have
to do some looking around junk yards, but when a guy is on a budget you do
what you can do-:) Let me apologize for the lack of part numbers and such. I
didn't plan on writing a recipe for this. I hope that some of you will benefit
from it, although it may require a little investigative work. Here's the basic
run down...

Materials:

1) Electronic fuel pump 
 ...I bought mine for $40 used. I found a Bosch (# 9580 810 021) unit off a
Ford truck with EFI. It's used but seems to be working well. Puts out over
60psi at the injector. a Bosch rep told me that most of there pumps have
stainless insides (which resist alky corrosion. This is the main "iffy" part
to the recipe. You gotta find a good EFI pump. I would not suggest the little
skinnies that come in our cars. I have not heard any thing _good_ about them
and alky/water. You may want to periodically check the out put of the pump. It
is possible that it can corrode and need replacement after time. ~$40

2) Relay
....just a simple 4 prong 30amp relay like we use to "hot wire" the fuel
pump.~$3

3)Some kind of MAP switch. I used a switch that the digital dashed cars use to
turn on the red and orange dash lights under boost. This switch is very
adjustable via two screws on the back. When a certain boost is reached this
switch completes a ground. I adjusted mine to 10psi so that I was sure the
alky would be there before detonation. I used compressed air and my boost
guage to tune it in to 10psi. It has been w/ in one psi of ten everytime.
~$10used

4)Nozzel (injector) and jets.
I use NOS here, but it is entirely up to you. This is an area where your own
line of reasoning comes to play. I used a NOS 90degree nitrous nozzel. I did
this so that I could aim the injector INTO the air stream for better
atomization. It's far enough from the TB that I don't think turbulence is a
problem. Atomization is key, thats the reason for the high psi pump. NOS has
straight on nozzels too if you disagree with my reasoning. You'll also need a
nut to mount the nozzel. I think a metric fine thread nut at the hardware
store is what I used.. sorry, not sure what size but thats a starting point.
The nozzel won't thread all the way in but it only needs to be flush with the
nut seat. Jets: By a few of them, for you will be tuning. Try anything between
.025 and .035 flare type jets. I have mine dialed in pretty well with a .030
jet. It will be different for everyone I'm sure. If you are curious as to
whether you're to rich with alky, just look for clouds of steam behind you-:)
~$20

5) 14 guage wire. several feet..~$5

6) Plumbing to fit the NOS nozzel. It will be different for everyone as to
location of pump and nozzel.less than $15.

7) A Washer fluid tank that will fit in your engine compartment. Mine is out
of an old chevy truck and rests where the charcol canister used to be. It is
good to mount the pump lower than the tank so that it will keep its prime. A
washer fluid tank is nice due to the strainer in the pick up tube.less than
$5.

Installation..Finally:

Decide where you want to mount the nozzel. Somewhere in your up pipe from the
IC or the turbo for you 85 and older guys. I would suggest a place in the bend
of the up pipe so that the alky can atomize a bit more during the bend. Remove
the pipe and drill a 3/16" hole. I used JB's weld to bond the metric nut to
the outside of the tube. If you take your time it will look nice. If you have
a 90* nozzel, mark the spray side for ease of aim later on.

Next get your wiring figured out. I mounted my pump under the air filter.....
 NOTE: Do NOT let your pump touch any grounded metal. The plastic wheel well
is a great place for mounting. If you must mount it on metal you will have to
reverse the wiring i decribe later).... 
It was real close the alt. that way. I mounted ther presure switch on the pass
side fender, behind the puke tank, under the little guard. There should
already be holes for it to mount. Find a place to splice in the boost system
for your switch. I placed the relay right next to it for ease of wiring and
protection. The relay will be completing the ground for the pump. 
Wiring: 
1)Wire from NEG. post of PUMP to terminal 30
2)wire from a GOOD GROUND to terminal 87
3)wire from MAP switch to 86
4)wire from battery or other (+) to terminal 85
5) wire from alternator BAT post to POS pump terminal.

Wire routing is a thing of personal preferance. I mounted my one wire that
goes to the pump from the relay under the radiator support. If you have to
take things apart for installation, besure to reassemble frequently to check
for clearence...This is very important-:)

Now (24hrs later) the JB weld should be plenty hard to take stress from the
nozzel and complimentary plumbing. Place the nozzel in the hole and thread it
in until it is snug. Then back it off till it points in the desired direction,
via the mark you put on it earlier. Like I said, mine points into the air
stream. You should prolly use teflon tape to help seal it, since it won't be
real tight. It doesn't have to be that tight though. Now you have the nozzel
mounted, the up pipe on, the pump installed and wired...right <GRIN>.   

Next is plumbing the pump to the nozzel. First you need to place one of your
jets in your nozzel. It only fits one way....You can't screw it up.... The
fittings then hold the jet into the nozzel. Your on your own from here. I have
a front mount which leaves me a lot of room for plumbing. Keep tube routing in
mind while your mounting your pump and nozzel. You'll need to either order the
parts you need from NOS (or another nitrous supplier) or do what I did, and
find a local hydrolic specialist. The can generally make any kind of hose and
fitting you need. It's prolly cheaper to go to NOS though. A worm drive clamp
works great for holding the hose on to the pump. Keep in mind you'll be using
high pressure. No vaccuum lines-:) 

That is about everything. If you have any specific questions let me know. I
have had quite some fun with this setup. I run 9.5:1 and have experienced a
6psi increasse in boost with no knock. I have found that the thrasher chip did
not work as well as a good conventional after market chip. I use a 50/50
rubbing alky and water mix. Its cheap and i think that is the best mixture.
Thats my experience anyway.

I hope that a good start anyway. It's really pretty simple. Good luck. Like I
said let me know of any questions or clarification you may need..

Phil Verhaeghe
lcgn at aol.com
4.1L '87 GN

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

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