Questions about Big Block Chevy Tall Deck Engines

[Scott Knight]

Hey Gwyn,

Sorry I only got here for the tail end of this thread, but I have to
pose the question of why stick with the tall deck block if not using
long rods?  If it's a matter of yours is OK and can be repaired cost
effectively, then there is good incentive.  If you are going to put a
different shortblock in it, I always suggest going to the biggest
displacement you can afford.  IT's hard to beat the GM crate 502 for
dollar value though when you consider what goes inside.  They come with
the best rods, crank and block GM has ever made.  There are better
aftermarket alternatives, but at a price and it doesn't look like your
project warrants billet rods and such.  My suggestion is that if you
find you need to replace the crank and/or block, to just get a regular
shortdeck block and go from there.  It is worlds easier to deal with
getting parts for a shortdeck than a talldeck.  Intake spacers are
nothing but a PITA not to mention rarity of talldeck distributors. 
Pistons are an issue all to themselves unless you are going to get long
rods.  I dunno what the brackets look like on your truck, but all of the
big block brackets I have seen so far didn't really care whether or not
they were mounted to a tall or short deck (i.e. the alternator bolts
only to the head and intake and never touches the block).  Good luck and
let us know how you make out.

later dates.
-- 
Scott Knight  mailto:sknight at mich.com
http://www.mich.com/~sknight IRC:SS396man ICQ:8353618
'95 Black Impala SS
'94 Ducati 900SS CR