EFI on a Dodge 318

[Greg Hermann]

>Greetings,
>
>After a short hiatus, I've reinstated my being here.  Took a break for a
>while as I've been welding my mid-engine chassis together, after completing
>a running twin-turbo EFI Buick V6 successfully (using the Haltech system).
>
>Anyway, I have purchased a used 1975 Dodge D200 clubcab truck, decided the
>carb absolutely must go.  I want cleaner emissions, more power, and easier
>starting.  The engine is the stock truck version of the 318, with a stock,
>highly mistuned 2bbl carb.  The engine blows absolutely no smoke, and all
>cylinders produce decent compression.  I also have at a friend's house, a
>383 cid stock Chrysler engine from a 1967 RoadRunner.
>
>I shall be fuel injecting, as to facilitate a compressor of sorts -
>undecided, either a Weiland-like blower or possibly a turbo.  I want more
>towing power, more torque, and I believe EFI and a compressor is the way to
>go :)
>
You did not say whether the truck is an automatic or manual tranny.
Whatever else you do to the engine, the 383 (B) big blcok is the one to
use--but unfortunately the bell housing has a different bolt pattern. You
will need a TF 727 housing for a B-RB motor (not a hard core to find in
bone-yards on a car) , as your existing truck tailshaft and tailshaft
housing will assemble into the other case. A bell housing for a manual
tranny (and maybe a flywheel, depending on what is on the Road-Runner
motor) would be tougher parts, but can be found. If the Road Runner has a
727 attached and the truck is an automatic, you are in luck--you get to
fully disassemble the trannies, but you have all the pieces you will need
right there.

If you really want SERIOUS towing power, trade both engines (but keeping
the all tranny parts you need)  for an RB (Raised deck) B engine like a
413, 426 or 440 from a car. If you can find a 440 out of a motorhome or the
like, the block is way stouter than those in a car (for boost
considerations, etc.). But the motorhome engine still trims out mostly like
a car engine--pay attention to the following: But whatever you do, watch
out for 8 bolt crank flanges, as opposed to six bolt ones. Flywheels/flex
plates for the eight bolt units are tough to find.

And just to reconfirm why Chrysler nearly went broke, hemis used an eight
bolt crank flange, but it does not stick out as far as the eight bolt
flange on truck motors. You can also find factory gear type cam drives on
only SOME truck and school bus and industrial RB engines! And,
truck/industrial heads require a whole different  front cover/water pump
assembly, not to mention a different ring gear/flywheel
diameter/bell-housing/starter to go with the eight hole flange, steel,
truck type crank!! Somebody will have a detail to prove me wrong, but
almost all of the B's and Rb's were internally balanced, so that is not
MUCH of a hassle. The ONE exception I do know of was the 440
six-pack--which had heavier rods, and some external balance to cover the
change.

Even the 383 B you have, with no boost, will put the 318 to shame in terms
of all-around truck/towing performance, no matter what you do to the 318!!
The  383 and 426 share a 4.125" bore. the "400" and the 440 share a bore of
4.320". The B engines have a stroke of 3.375", the RB engines have taller
decks, and a stroke of 3.750". All are very durable in high load
applications--at least the equal of a big block Ford. Would not say the
same for a 318, let alone if boosted.

Regards, Greg