EFI on a Dodge 318

[Terry_Sare at dell.com]

I have a 98 Quad Cab with 5 speed and 318. What a joke. Already had warranty
replacement on 5 speed. 318 has very little power and should not be
considered for anything. Gas mileage stinks also :-)

terry sare
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	bearbvd at sni.net [SMTP:bearbvd at sni.net]
> Sent:	Sunday, November 29, 1998 8:37 PM
> To:	diy_efi at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
> 
> >Greetings,
> >
> >After a short hiatus, I've reinstated my being here.  Took a break for a
> >while as I've been welding my mid-engine chassis together, after
> completing
> >a running twin-turbo EFI Buick V6 successfully (using the Haltech
> system).
> >
> >Anyway, I have purchased a used 1975 Dodge D200 clubcab truck, decided
> the
> >carb absolutely must go.  I want cleaner emissions, more power, and
> easier
> >starting.  The engine is the stock truck version of the 318, with a
> stock,
> >highly mistuned 2bbl carb.  The engine blows absolutely no smoke, and all
> >cylinders produce decent compression.  I also have at a friend's house, a
> >383 cid stock Chrysler engine from a 1967 RoadRunner.
> >
> >I shall be fuel injecting, as to facilitate a compressor of sorts -
> >undecided, either a Weiland-like blower or possibly a turbo.  I want more
> >towing power, more torque, and I believe EFI and a compressor is the way
> to
> >go :)
> >
> You did not say whether the truck is an automatic or manual tranny.
> Whatever else you do to the engine, the 383 (B) big blcok is the one to
> use--but unfortunately the bell housing has a different bolt pattern. You
> will need a TF 727 housing for a B-RB motor (not a hard core to find in
> bone-yards on a car) , as your existing truck tailshaft and tailshaft
> housing will assemble into the other case. A bell housing for a manual
> tranny (and maybe a flywheel, depending on what is on the Road-Runner
> motor) would be tougher parts, but can be found. If the Road Runner has a
> 727 attached and the truck is an automatic, you are in luck--you get to
> fully disassemble the trannies, but you have all the pieces you will need
> right there.
> 
> If you really want SERIOUS towing power, trade both engines (but keeping
> the all tranny parts you need)  for an RB (Raised deck) B engine like a
> 413, 426 or 440 from a car. If you can find a 440 out of a motorhome or
> the
> like, the block is way stouter than those in a car (for boost
> considerations, etc.). But the motorhome engine still trims out mostly
> like
> a car engine--pay attention to the following: But whatever you do, watch
> out for 8 bolt crank flanges, as opposed to six bolt ones. Flywheels/flex
> plates for the eight bolt units are tough to find.
> 
> And just to reconfirm why Chrysler nearly went broke, hemis used an eight
> bolt crank flange, but it does not stick out as far as the eight bolt
> flange on truck motors. You can also find factory gear type cam drives on
> only SOME truck and school bus and industrial RB engines! And,
> truck/industrial heads require a whole different  front cover/water pump
> assembly, not to mention a different ring gear/flywheel
> diameter/bell-housing/starter to go with the eight hole flange, steel,
> truck type crank!! Somebody will have a detail to prove me wrong, but
> almost all of the B's and Rb's were internally balanced, so that is not
> MUCH of a hassle. The ONE exception I do know of was the 440
> six-pack--which had heavier rods, and some external balance to cover the
> change.
> 
> Even the 383 B you have, with no boost, will put the 318 to shame in terms
> of all-around truck/towing performance, no matter what you do to the 318!!
> The  383 and 426 share a 4.125" bore. the "400" and the 440 share a bore
> of
> 4.320". The B engines have a stroke of 3.375", the RB engines have taller
> decks, and a stroke of 3.750". All are very durable in high load
> applications--at least the equal of a big block Ford. Would not say the
> same for a 318, let alone if boosted.
> 
> Regards, Greg
>