return line to gas tank

[Greg Hermann]

GENE--
>
 But I don't recall ever having an engine with intake and exhaust on the
same side of the cyl head,
>that's a very poor design rite from the get-go....

Archaic, maybe--but I would hesitate to call an engine that will run 400K
miles (like a certain B-30 Volvo I have has) a POOR design. And if you have
not worked on any Volvo (pushrod), MG, Morris, Fiat (pushrod)
Triumph-Standard, Chevy (either stove bolt 231/261 or late model
240/250/292) , Ford, Chrysler, GMC or IHC in line 6 cylinder motors in 35
years,, WOW!! Or maybe all that time was spent sniffing Fiberglass resin??
:-)>
>
>colder intake charges, both fuel and air, does make more power,

Yes indeed they do, and for several reasons. One of which is no $%^&**((
bubbles in the *%&() float bowls/jets/injectors!!

 that is why
>dragracers cool their gas lines with ice,

(As do Bonneville guys, and gas powered tractor pullers.)

afterall they pump ~1-2 galoons of
>fuel in ~10 seconds through their engine, so they can do temporary 'fixes'

Not so "temporary" if I decide to put a crankcase pressure regulator on the
AC compressor on my big turbo motor, charge the system with R-22 so as to
get a bunch more capacity (already using a 10 cid compressor), and use a
baby chiller vessel to refrigerate the beastie's fuel on its way to the
injector rails!!! (And use EPR's on the evaporators for the actual AC  so
that they don't freeae up.) (And , yes, make sure that everything on the
high side of the system is good for 400 psi.)

 for
>the increase in power...
>
>Modern stock engines run too hot anyway, those stat's are set at 195 to
>open, as
>a min engine temp. the fans in most cases don't turn on untill ~230 degrees
>coolent temp....that is WAY TOO HOT....good for EPA readings,  bad for engine
>longevity, seals, rings,

Hey--if you wanna contribute to oil co. profits, plus replace rings cuz the
bores got washed insteada the lands got hammered, I , for one, will not
stand in your way! But this talk from a guy who talks about non-cross-flow
cylinder heads being dated--ain't real consistent!

 and especially valve stem seals...

This probably has a whole lot more to do with (1) stock seals. (2) hot
cams. (3) stiff springs. (4) high revs. than it does with stat setting.  I
suggest that you explore the possibility of using a set of oil spray valve
covers if cooked valve seals and saggy springs are slowin' you down. As for
the rest of the seals, viton, silicone, and teflon seal materials have made
the higher operating temps more than OK. Real progress HAS happened in some
areas!!

so I just eliminate
>the heat at the source,   keep the engine cool, like I say I never have had a
>problem...towing in 100* heat even,...GENE

By the way-- I can imagine being able to live with a cut out due to fuel
slosh at moderate lateral G force levels, but at TRULY high lateral G's,
that sort of thing will park you against the Armco in less than a
heartbeat!! Not really an acceptable outcome, unless, of course a guy is
truly fond of those fiberglass fumes!!

Old Scotch (?) proverb: "If you ain't never lost, you ain't never raced,
mate!!" :-)>
>
Regards, Greg