return line to gas tank

[mrvette]

Greg Hermann wrote:
> 
> GENE--
> >
>  But I don't recall ever having an engine with intake and exhaust on the
> same side of the cyl head,
> >that's a very poor design rite from the get-go....
> 
> Archaic, maybe--but I would hesitate to call an engine that will run 400K
> miles (like a certain B-30 Volvo I have has) a POOR design. And if you have
> not worked on any Volvo (pushrod), MG, Morris, Fiat (pushrod)
> Triumph-Standard, Chevy (either stove bolt 231/261 or late model
> 240/250/292) , Ford, Chrysler, GMC or IHC in line 6 cylinder motors in 35
> years,, WOW!! Or maybe all that time was spent sniffing Fiberglass resin??
> :-)>

Well first off I'm in America,  So I don't seemany of much you describe, 
certainly don't remember them and have never worked on them....including the
American ones you mention...I been a V8 man from the get go...
> >
> >colder intake charges, both fuel and air, does make more power,
> 
> Yes indeed they do, and for several reasons. One of which is no $%^&**((
> bubbles in the *%&() float bowls/jets/injectors!!

at injector pressures you going to have a hell of a time boiling
fuel.....period.....and in a carb, assuming it is NOT suspended above a glowing
red cast iron exhaust manifold in a close engine compartment,  will allow the
fuel to blow off the top (hopefully down the stack) and the rest of the fuel is
drawn into the jets from the BOTTOM of the carb.....anything less is poor
design....period....
> 
>  that is why
> >dragracers cool their gas lines with ice,
> 
> (As do Bonneville guys, and gas powered tractor pullers.)
> 
> afterall they pump ~1-2 galoons of
> >fuel in ~10 seconds through their engine, so they can do temporary 'fixes'
> 
> Not so "temporary" if I decide to put a crankcase pressure regulator on the
> AC compressor on my big turbo motor, charge the system with R-22 so as to
> get a bunch more capacity (already using a 10 cid compressor), and use a
> baby chiller vessel to refrigerate the beastie's fuel on its way to the
> injector rails!!! (And use EPR's on the evaporators for the actual AC  so
> that they don't freeae up.) (And , yes, make sure that everything on the
> high side of the system is good for 400 psi.)


I had thought of that, but it was decided that the cost/benefit ratio was way
over the probabilities of that sort of system ever succeeding in the long
haul....
> 
>  for
> >the increase in power...
> >
> >Modern stock engines run too hot anyway, those stat's are set at 195 to
> >open, as
> >a min engine temp. the fans in most cases don't turn on untill ~230 degrees
> >coolent temp....that is WAY TOO HOT....good for EPA readings,  bad for engine
> >longevity, seals, rings,
> 
> Hey--if you wanna contribute to oil co. profits, plus replace rings cuz the
> bores got washed insteada the lands got hammered, I , for one, will not
> stand in your way! But this talk from a guy who talks about non-cross-flow
> cylinder heads being dated--ain't real consistent!

what, consistant, I'm looking for best of both worlds,      go with the best,
and unfortunately your viton seals are a poor reliability/longevity to just
plain using them and lowering the engine temp to a 180 stat and putting on the
fans at say 195 or so...and having a  really GOOD radiator system.....
> 
>  and especially valve stem seals...
> 
> This probably has a whole lot more to do with (1) stock seals. (2) hot
> cams. (3) stiff springs. (4) high revs. than it does with stat setting.  I
> suggest that you explore the possibility of using a set of oil spray valve
> covers if cooked valve seals and saggy springs are slowin' you down. As for
> the rest of the seals, viton, silicone, and teflon seal materials have made
> the higher operating temps more than OK. Real progress HAS happened in some
> areas!!
> 
> so I just eliminate
> >the heat at the source,   keep the engine cool, like I say I never have had a
> >problem...towing in 100* heat even,...GENE
> 
> By the way-- I can imagine being able to live with a cut out due to fuel
> slosh at moderate lateral G force levels, but at TRULY high lateral G's,
> that sort of thing will park you against the Armco in less than a
> heartbeat!! Not really an acceptable outcome, unless, of course a guy is
> truly fond of those fiberglass fumes!!

the fuel slosh problem is caused by my doing a DPFI system with that antequated
Bosch patented pressure regulator device, requiring a return line,  thereby
requiring a rate of continuous feed from the tank that allows the slosh problem
and temporary line air suction to be a problem in engine operation...I
personally have not found an adequate solution to the problem as yet,  but I am
looking at a pressure modulated fuel pump electronically driven as to a
possibility of solving that problem in MY '72 vette which came with a carb, and
never had the problem to begin with.....
> 
> Old Scotch (?) proverb: "If you ain't never lost, you ain't never raced,
> mate!!" :-)>

I have lost a few, and even won a few,  not that I truely give a damn,  I'm in
it for the tech fun,.....


GENE

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