Grass roots Water Injection/ injectors

[Jason_Leone at amat.com]

 <<For my turbo, I don't
yet have an intercooler and don't know when I will.  In the meantime, I've
planned on building a water injection system using basically a boost
pressurized tank and a couple pumps to provide a pressure differential to
inject water after the turbo.Instead though, it's very likely that I'll be
getting an ERL AquaMist from a friend to try out.  This is the $500 job I think.
Uses a high pressure
magnetic/diaphram pump or something.  I won't be getting the controller
they sell for it, just the basic system.>>

Uhh, before blowing all that cash on the AquaMist set-up...PLEASE read this
page! It's what the doctor ordered. Grass roots water injection for
forced-induction.

http://home.ccci.org/Key_Information/MerkurPage.htm#H20

You also mentioned that your injectors were hitting the 100% duty cycle wall
under full boost (9psi), and that you heard anything over 80% was dangerous.
Well, it depends on a lot of variables, but running most Bosch injectors at 90%
is fine. They can handle it all day long. 95% is pushing it. 100% is
unacceptable. If you could tweak the injector pulse width values in the code,
you could swap in larger injectors and simply run the duty cycle at
significantly less at idle...and close the pulsewidth to the about the lowest
value the ECU can go (let's say 5ms). Then have normal values up top. That would
avoid running extremely rich at idle, but would be fine under boost. One of the
problems with my Motronic 2.9 version, is that it can't lower the pulsewidth
below about 4ms. When 440cc/min injectors were swapped in, it would run rich at
idle. The code couldn't be tweaked any further. Result? Plenty of fuel under
boost, but black smoke at idle. Kiss $35 worth of new NGK dual-electrode plugs
goodbye. Fouled beyond cleaning. Motronic out, Electromotive in. No more MAF
sensor troubles either. Speed Density and forced-induction is a match made in
hot rod heaven, IF...you have the right software. =)

Jason
'93 SLC