DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619

Wed Nov 3 13:48:29 GMT 1999

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Yes the factory still builds the LA Chrysler engine, in trucks, and it is
equipped with fuel injection from the factory.  Throttle body on standard
and port injection on magnum engines.  The magnum engine is the hot set-up
but the heads are different from older engines.  The Mopar performance
division sells the magnum engine as a crate motor.  I am considering
building a twin turbo, efi 66 barracuda using a 360 magnum truck engine.
The engine assembly will bolt into older cars with no problem.  You should
be able to locate all the components at a salvage yard and have them
shipped.

-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 4:00 AM
To: DIY_EFI-Digest at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619

DIY_EFI Digest       Wednesday, November 3 1999       Volume 04 : Number 619

In this issue:

	Re: Small block Chrysler V8's
	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617
	Re: Small block Chrysler V8's
	Tach's & injector timing
	RE: Dyno tach generator

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 10:40:45 +1100
From: "Daniel Phillips" <thylcine at mpx.com.au>
Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's

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Gidday All,

I am considering building myself a street rod version of a 1962 Chrysler =
Valiant R or S series. This was a 'compact' that I understand was also =
sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies were imported to Australia =
to be built in right hand Drive.
It originally had a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. As this is not really =
all that quick by modern standards, I was considering re-fitting a later =
chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch motor, and fitting electronic =
fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller capacity Predator =
500 to 700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor with a supercharger. =
In the smaller body chrysler, with a getrag  or A904 or A727 =
torqueflight gearbox & a ford 9" LSD backing it up, she really should =
move off the mark rather nicely.

After doing some reading, I have not found any after market EFI kits for =
this kind of motor here in Australia. Unfortunately we stopped building =
Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do electronic fuel injection units =
exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where can I get them, and =
who would best be able to advise setting them up properly?=20

Kind regards

Daniel Phillips
Sydney, Australia

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2721.2900" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Gidday All,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I am considering building myself a street rod =
version of a=20
1962 Chrysler Valiant R or S series. This was a 'compact' that I =
understand was=20
also sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies were imported to =
Australia to=20
be built in right hand Drive.</DIV>
<DIV>It originally had a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. =
As this is=20
not really all that quick by modern standards, I was considering =
re-fitting a=20
later chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch motor, and fitting =
electronic=20
fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller capacity Predator =
500 to=20
700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor with a supercharger. In the =
smaller=20
body chrysler, with a getrag&nbsp; or A904 or A727 torqueflight=20
gearbox&nbsp;&amp; a ford 9" LSD backing it up, she really should move =
off the=20
mark rather nicely.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>After doing some reading, I have not found any after =
market=20
EFI kits for this kind of motor here in Australia. Unfortunately we =
stopped=20
building Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do electronic fuel injection =
units=20
exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where can I get them, and =
who=20
would best be able to advise setting them up properly? </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Kind regards</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Daniel Phillips</DIV>
<DIV>Sydney, Australia</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 18:49:57 -0500
From: Todd Israels <israels at mnsi.net>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617

>Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 22:40:56 -0500
>From: brucep at ptd.net
>Subject: non-DFI tach question
>
>I've searched high and low and haven't been able to find any info that was
>of any use on this subject so I am turning to the "minds" of this group.
>
>I am building a steady state dyno and need to add a tach to it. I want to
>measure the shaft speed of the dyno. (I don't want to read the engine
>ignition) I can't afford a digital tach setup so I am looking to use a
>analog 4 cylinder tach I have laying around till I can afford to upgrade.
>What would be the easiest way to make this work? Does the tach sense the
>drop of the ground when the points open. Could I use parts from a GM 4
>cylinder HEI coil ie: coil pickup and ignition module. I think I am headed
>in the right direction just need some advice on different ways I could do
>this. Ideally I would like to have a digital display which would allow me
to
>have a more realistic reading of rpm's as opposed to well it looks like it
>is 2000 not 2010, 2020 or 2050. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And
>sorry for taking up bandwidth for the non-dfi post but this was my last
>place to ask . . . thanks in advance.
>
>Bruce
>
>------------------------------

You can use a small bit of reflective tape and a photo diode.  send the
output of this to a  frequency counter.  The Fluke automotive meter manual
describes this well, but this feature is available on cheaper meters or use
a PIC microcontroler to drive a display and do any calculations required.  
Best of luck
			Todd Israels

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 11:05:48 +1100
From: "Daniel Phillips" <thylcine at mpx.com.au>
Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's

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Gidday Folks,

Just to clarify, the chrysler that I want to play with's US equivalent =
is the Plymouth Valiant, which started production in '59, and was a 225 =
cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine with another Aussie built =
gutless wonder engine.=20

We did have a very quick straight 6 (the Australian built Hemi six-pack) =
that powered what was the quickest accelerating production car in =
Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, that turned out over =
300 bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto carbs and the wildest =
camshaft this side of the Black stump. Getting one's hands on one in =
good nick, however, is not easy, and keeping it tuned properly is a =
bitch. I do not know if this motor had a US equivalent - I suspect that =
it was only produced locally. If anyone can tell me I would much =
appreciate it.

Can anyone suggest any good sites for infor on souping up Chryslers - =
partcularly small block V8's?

Best Wishes

Daniel Phillips
Sydney, Australia

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2721.2900" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Gidday Folks,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Just to clarify, the chrysler that I want to play =
with's US=20
equivalent is the Plymouth Valiant, which started production in '59, and =
was a=20
225 cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine with another Aussie =
built=20
gutless wonder engine. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>We did have a very quick straight 6 (the Australian =
built Hemi=20
six-pack) that powered what was the quickest accelerating production car =
in=20
Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, that turned out over =
300=20
bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto carbs and the wildest =
camshaft=20
this side of the Black stump. Getting one's hands on one in good nick, =
however,=20
is not easy, and keeping it tuned properly is a bitch. I do not know if =
this=20
motor had a US equivalent - I suspect that it was only produced locally. =
If=20
anyone can tell me I would much appreciate it.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Can anyone suggest any good sites for infor on =
souping up=20
Chryslers - partcularly small block V8's?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Best Wishes</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Daniel Phillips</DIV>
<DIV>Sydney, Australia</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 22:39:32 -0800
From: "Rod. Hiorns" <R.E.Hiorns at IEE.org>
Subject: Tach's & injector timing

Hi, all

Just got on the list. Nice to see what's going on. I design electronics, so
apologies if I seem to rely on them too much ...

A simple way of changing 6 or 8 pulse systems into 4 pulse systems is to
use a phase locked loop with a counter ("divider") to set the ratios you
want. This is particularly easy with cheap CMOS 4000 series chips which can
run off 5-18v (good for autos, but maybe not trucks).

Try the 4046A for the PLL (all in one chip) and a dual 4 bit counter to set
the ratios (one in the feedback path and one on the input). I guess an
optional input divider of 2 or 4, and feedback divider of 2 or 3, will
cover 4, 6 & 8 cylinder engines, but it's pretty easy to choose ratios for
more cylinders. The problem you run into is that you have to make a
compromise between how quickly it'll respond, and how steady the final
readout is, and this brings us neatly to designing a high accuracy digital
tach for a dyno shaft.

To get high accuracy on the dyno shaft, you want a lot of pulses per
revolution so you can avoid too much smoothing which forces your readout to
take ages to settle. This just means having many contacts/magnets/marks on
the shaft for your electrical/hall-effect/optical reader. I've had great
success canibalising the wheel and slotted UV opto-switch from inside an
old (dead) computer mouse (although it took me ages to start with to get
rid of 60Hz clocking ... had to build a box round it so the flourescent
lights didn't interfere ... I guess sunlight may cause missed pulses too).
You can chuck the output through a F-V converter, but a neat, flexible
solution is to use a PIC microcontroller (they're amazingly cheap too). Use
the event counter to time periods of the system clock and then take the
reciprocal to get the frequency (algorithm in the PIC handbook) which needs
scaling depending on your pickup system. I like this solution cause I can
drive a digital display using the same chip ... no need to lock up my
voltmeter which I invariably want for something else! The same system can
also be used with a different program for dwell metering, although I
noticed more readout 'wobble' with this. Perhaps if you're really concerned
you could put some filtering into the program to get it down to the last Hz
or degree.

Hope these few thoughts help. While I'm here could I ask how to work out
when injectors should be fired? When the inlet port opens seems too early;
mid 'inrush' would make sense to me for best mixing (but it's rpm
dependant: I'm using long inlet runners to boost lower rpm torque) ... and
is there a recognised best way of getting past the 'stumble' as I
changeover from sequential to batch firing? Any views appreciated.

Rod

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:06:38 -0000
From: "Rich M" <rsrich at cwcom.net>
Subject: RE: Dyno tach generator

>Have a look at frequency to voltage converters. Don't know who
>makes them, but
>it shouldn't take long to find a datasheet. I'm not sure how
>accurate they can
>be, but you should be able to hook one up with a multimeter as a >display,
or
>use the movement in the tach if it is accurate enough.

>A friend of mine put such a circuit into his misbehaving period
>tach. Looks
>completely original from the outside, but reads far more
>accuratly.

LM2907 or LM2917 from National Semiconductors.
Linearity typically 0.3%. You get to trade off output ripple variation
against speed of response/settling time.

I've used them for both retrofit to moving coil tach and for digital
display, both work fine.

Rich

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619
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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Yes the factory still builds the LA Chrysler engine, =
in trucks, and it is equipped with fuel injection from the =
factory.&nbsp; Throttle body on standard and port injection on magnum =
engines.&nbsp; The magnum engine is the hot set-up but the heads are =
different from older engines.&nbsp; The Mopar performance division =
sells the magnum engine as a crate motor.&nbsp; I am considering =
building a twin turbo, efi 66 barracuda using a 360 magnum truck =
engine.&nbsp; The engine assembly will bolt into older cars with no =
problem.&nbsp; You should be able to locate all the components at a =
salvage yard and have them shipped.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>-----Original Message-----</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: =
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>[<A =
HREF=3D"mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu">mailto:DI=
Y_EFI-Digest-Owner at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</A>]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 4:00 AM</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>To: DIY_EFI-Digest at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619</FONT>
</P>
<BR>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>DIY_EFI Digest&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Wednesday, November 3 1999&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Volume =
04 : Number 619</FONT>
</P>
<BR>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>In this issue:</FONT>
</P>

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Re: Small =
block Chrysler V8's</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Re: =
DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Re: Small =
block Chrysler V8's</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Tach's =
&amp; injector timing</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>RE: Dyno =
tach generator</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>See the end of the digest for information on =
subscribing to the </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT =
SIZE=3D2>---------------------------------------------------------------=
-------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 10:40:45 +1100</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: &quot;Daniel Phillips&quot; =
&lt;thylcine at mpx.com.au&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>- =
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<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Content-Type: text/plain;</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT =
SIZE=3D2>charset=3D&quot;iso-8859-1&quot;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Gidday All,</FONT>
</P>

I am considering building myself a street rod version =
of a 1962 Chrysler =3D
 Valiant R or S series. This was a 'compact' that I =
understand was also =3D
 sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies were =
imported to Australia =3D
 to be built in right hand Drive.
 It originally had a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. =
As this is not really =3D
 all that quick by modern standards, I was =
considering re-fitting a later =3D
 chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch motor, =
and fitting electronic =3D
 fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller =
capacity Predator =3D
 500 to 700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor =
with a supercharger. =3D
 In the smaller body chrysler, with a getrag&nbsp; or =
A904 or A727 =3D
 torqueflight gearbox &amp; a ford 9&quot; LSD =
backing it up, she really should =3D
 move off the mark rather nicely.

After doing some reading, I have not found any after =
market EFI kits for =3D
 this kind of motor here in Australia. Unfortunately =
we stopped building =3D
 Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do electronic =
fuel injection units =3D
 exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where =
can I get them, and =3D
 who would best be able to advise setting them up =
properly?=3D20

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Kind regards</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Daniel Phillips</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Sydney, Australia</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>- =
------=3D_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Content-Type: text/html;</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT =
SIZE=3D2>charset=3D&quot;iso-8859-1&quot;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable</FONT>
</P>

&lt;!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC &quot;-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN&quot;&gt;
 &lt;HTML&gt;&lt;HEAD&gt;
 &lt;META content=3D3D&quot;text/html; =
charset=3D3Diso-8859-1&quot; =3D
 http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type&gt;
 &lt;META content=3D3D&quot;MSHTML =
5.00.2721.2900&quot; name=3D3DGENERATOR&gt;
 &lt;STYLE&gt;&lt;/STYLE&gt;
 &lt;/HEAD&gt;
 &lt;BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Gidday =
All,&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;I am considering =
building myself a street rod =3D
 version of a=3D20
 1962 Chrysler Valiant R or S series. This was a =
'compact' that I =3D
 understand was=3D20
 also sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies =
were imported to =3D
 Australia to=3D20
 be built in right hand =
Drive.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;It originally had =
a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. =3D
 As this is=3D20
 not really all that quick by modern standards, I was =
considering =3D
 re-fitting a=3D20
 later chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch =
motor, and fitting =3D
 electronic=3D20
 fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller =
capacity Predator =3D
 500 to=3D20
 700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor with a =
supercharger. In the =3D
 smaller=3D20
 body chrysler, with a getrag&amp;nbsp; or A904 or =
A727 torqueflight=3D20
 gearbox&amp;nbsp;&amp;amp; a ford 9&quot; LSD =
backing it up, she really should move =3D
 off the=3D20
 mark rather nicely.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;After doing some =
reading, I have not found any after =3D
 market=3D20
 EFI kits for this kind of motor here in Australia. =
Unfortunately we =3D
 stopped=3D20
 building Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do =
electronic fuel injection =3D
 units=3D20
 exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where =
can I get them, and =3D
 who=3D20
 would best be able to advise setting them up =
properly? &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Kind =
regards&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Daniel =
Phillips&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Sydney, =
Australia&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;/BODY&gt;&lt;/HTML&gt;

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>- =
------=3D_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0--</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 18:49:57 -0500</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: Todd Israels &lt;israels at mnsi.net&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617</FONT>
</P>

&gt;Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 22:40:56 -0500
 &gt;From: brucep at ptd.net
 &gt;Subject: non-DFI tach question
 &gt;
 &gt;I've searched high and low and haven't been able =
to find any info that was
 &gt;of any use on this subject so I am turning to =
the &quot;minds&quot; of this group.
 &gt;
 &gt;I am building a steady state dyno and need to =
add a tach to it. I want to
 &gt;measure the shaft speed of the dyno. (I don't =
want to read the engine
 &gt;ignition) I can't afford a digital tach setup so =
I am looking to use a
 &gt;analog 4 cylinder tach I have laying around till =
I can afford to upgrade.
 &gt;What would be the easiest way to make this work? =
Does the tach sense the
 &gt;drop of the ground when the points open. Could I =
use parts from a GM 4
 &gt;cylinder HEI coil ie: coil pickup and ignition =
module. I think I am headed
 &gt;in the right direction just need some advice on =
different ways I could do
 &gt;this. Ideally I would like to have a digital =
display which would allow me to
 &gt;have a more realistic reading of rpm's as =
opposed to well it looks like it
 &gt;is 2000 not 2010, 2020 or 2050. Any help would =
be greatly appreciated. And
 &gt;sorry for taking up bandwidth for the non-dfi =
post but this was my last
 &gt;place to ask . . . thanks in advance.
 &gt;
 &gt;Bruce
 &gt;
 &gt;------------------------------

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>You can use a small bit of reflective tape and a =
photo diode.&nbsp; send the</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>output of this to a&nbsp; frequency counter.&nbsp; =
The Fluke automotive meter manual</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>describes this well, but this feature is available =
on cheaper meters or use</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>a PIC microcontroler to drive a display and do any =
calculations required.&nbsp; </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Best of luck</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Todd =
Israels</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 11:05:48 +1100</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: &quot;Daniel Phillips&quot; =
&lt;thylcine at mpx.com.au&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Gidday Folks,</FONT>
</P>

Just to clarify, the chrysler that I want to play =
with's US equivalent =3D
 is the Plymouth Valiant, which started production in =
'59, and was a 225 =3D
 cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine with =
another Aussie built =3D
 gutless wonder engine.=3D20

We did have a very quick straight 6 (the Australian =
built Hemi six-pack) =3D
 that powered what was the quickest accelerating =
production car in =3D
 Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, =
that turned out over =3D
 300 bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto =
carbs and the wildest =3D
 camshaft this side of the Black stump. Getting one's =
hands on one in =3D
 good nick, however, is not easy, and keeping it =
tuned properly is a =3D
 bitch. I do not know if this motor had a US =
equivalent - I suspect that =3D
 it was only produced locally. If anyone can tell me =
I would much =3D
 appreciate it.

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Can anyone suggest any good sites for infor on =
souping up Chryslers - =3D</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>partcularly small block V8's?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Best Wishes</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Daniel Phillips</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Sydney, Australia</FONT>
</P>

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&lt;!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC &quot;-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN&quot;&gt;
 &lt;HTML&gt;&lt;HEAD&gt;
 &lt;META content=3D3D&quot;text/html; =
charset=3D3Diso-8859-1&quot; =3D
 http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type&gt;
 &lt;META content=3D3D&quot;MSHTML =
5.00.2721.2900&quot; name=3D3DGENERATOR&gt;
 &lt;STYLE&gt;&lt;/STYLE&gt;
 &lt;/HEAD&gt;
 &lt;BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Gidday =
Folks,&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Just to clarify, =
the chrysler that I want to play =3D
 with's US=3D20
 equivalent is the Plymouth Valiant, which started =
production in '59, and =3D
 was a=3D20
 225 cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine =
with another Aussie =3D
 built=3D20
 gutless wonder engine. =
&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT =
size=3D3D2&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;We did have a very =
quick straight 6 (the Australian =3D
 built Hemi=3D20
 six-pack) that powered what was the quickest =
accelerating production car =3D
 in=3D20
 Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, =
that turned out over =3D
 300=3D20
 bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto carbs =
and the wildest =3D
 camshaft=3D20
 this side of the Black stump. Getting one's hands on =
one in good nick, =3D
 however,=3D20
 is not easy, and keeping it tuned properly is a =
bitch. I do not know if =3D
 this=3D20
 motor had a US equivalent - I suspect that it was =
only produced locally. =3D
 If=3D20
 anyone can tell me I would much appreciate =
it.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Can anyone suggest =
any good sites for infor on =3D
 souping up=3D20
 Chryslers - partcularly small block =
V8's?&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Best =
Wishes&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Daniel =
Phillips&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;
 &lt;DIV&gt;&lt;FONT size=3D3D2&gt;Sydney, =
Australia&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/DIV&gt;&lt;/BODY&gt;&lt;/HTML&gt;

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>- =
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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 22:39:32 -0800
 From: &quot;Rod. Hiorns&quot; =
&lt;R.E.Hiorns at IEE.org&gt;
 Subject: Tach's &amp; injector timing

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Hi, all</FONT>
</P>

Just got on the list. Nice to see what's going on. I =
design electronics, so
 apologies if I seem to rely on them too much =
...

A simple way of changing 6 or 8 pulse systems into 4 =
pulse systems is to
 use a phase locked loop with a counter =
(&quot;divider&quot;) to set the ratios you
 want. This is particularly easy with cheap CMOS 4000 =
series chips which can
 run off 5-18v (good for autos, but maybe not =
trucks).

Try the 4046A for the PLL (all in one chip) and a =
dual 4 bit counter to set
 the ratios (one in the feedback path and one on the =
input). I guess an
 optional input divider of 2 or 4, and feedback =
divider of 2 or 3, will
 cover 4, 6 &amp; 8 cylinder engines, but it's pretty =
easy to choose ratios for
 more cylinders. The problem you run into is that you =
have to make a
 compromise between how quickly it'll respond, and =
how steady the final
 readout is, and this brings us neatly to designing a =
high accuracy digital
 tach for a dyno shaft.

To get high accuracy on the dyno shaft, you want a =
lot of pulses per
 revolution so you can avoid too much smoothing which =
forces your readout to
 take ages to settle. This just means having many =
contacts/magnets/marks on
 the shaft for your electrical/hall-effect/optical =
reader. I've had great
 success canibalising the wheel and slotted UV =
opto-switch from inside an
 old (dead) computer mouse (although it took me ages =
to start with to get
 rid of 60Hz clocking ... had to build a box round it =
so the flourescent
 lights didn't interfere ... I guess sunlight may =
cause missed pulses too).
 You can chuck the output through a F-V converter, =
but a neat, flexible
 solution is to use a PIC microcontroller (they're =
amazingly cheap too). Use
 the event counter to time periods of the system =
clock and then take the
 reciprocal to get the frequency (algorithm in the =
PIC handbook) which needs
 scaling depending on your pickup system. I like this =
solution cause I can
 drive a digital display using the same chip ... no =
need to lock up my
 voltmeter which I invariably want for something =
else! The same system can
 also be used with a different program for dwell =
metering, although I
 noticed more readout 'wobble' with this. Perhaps if =
you're really concerned
 you could put some filtering into the program to get =
it down to the last Hz
 or degree.

Hope these few thoughts help. While I'm here could I =
ask how to work out
 when injectors should be fired? When the inlet port =
opens seems too early;
 mid 'inrush' would make sense to me for best mixing =
(but it's rpm
 dependant: I'm using long inlet runners to boost =
lower rpm torque) ... and
 is there a recognised best way of getting past the =
'stumble' as I
 changeover from sequential to batch firing? Any =
views appreciated.

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Rod</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:06:38 -0000</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: &quot;Rich M&quot; =
&lt;rsrich at cwcom.net&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: RE: Dyno tach generator</FONT>
</P>

&gt;Have a look at frequency to voltage converters. =
Don't know who
 &gt;makes them, but
 &gt;it shouldn't take long to find a datasheet. I'm =
not sure how
 &gt;accurate they can
 &gt;be, but you should be able to hook one up with a =
multimeter as a &gt;display,
 or
 &gt;use the movement in the tach if it is accurate =
enough.

&gt;A friend of mine put such a circuit into his =
misbehaving period
 &gt;tach. Looks
 &gt;completely original from the outside, but reads =
far more
 &gt;accuratly.

LM2907 or LM2917 from National Semiconductors.
 Linearity typically 0.3%. You get to trade off =
output ripple variation
 against speed of response/settling time.

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I've used them for both retrofit to moving coil tach =
and for digital</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>display, both work fine.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Rich</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

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