EFI fuel pump and water.

[Carl Summers]

Something I am playing with on the boats in my spare time(yeah right) is a
filtered water system that uses the knock sensor to trigger its' activation
for a period of time to cool and clean the combustion area...while we
haven't figured out exactly how to control this completely we did do some
simple tests on the dyno ie an electric pump and a pair of .080" orifices on
the inlet of the supercharger it seemed to work pretty well and after
stabilization that particular flow(no we didn't go so far as to figure out
that flow rate) reduced the EGT's ~ 100 degrees......although stabilization
seemed to occur within 20 seconds I assume it will not have to be that long
considering the slow response times of the type K TC's we use on the
dyno......the biggest reason for the test was to see if it would affect
particular cylinders or if they would all be pretty even......answer for us
was pretty even.....but we kinda expected it since port injection was having
very uneven EGT's and ended up fueling everything before the
supercharger......We have concluded many reasons for this but the nice thing
with an internal compression supercharger is it helps atomize liquid upon
release because of the internal pressure ratio. Anyways I hope this helps
someone and am looking for suggestions on a universal type filter that would
do some good in salt and all the various fresh waters.....injectors and/or
nozzles will be dealt with after a suitable filter can be had....this is all
pretty much in the thinking stages so all suggestions will be appreciated
and feedback given accordingly....Thanks
-Carl Summers

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-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Seth
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 7:42 PM
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: EFI fuel pump and water.


Peel one apart (a 2liter bottle), you'll see. There are several layers.
I just cut up one here. You'll need a sharp knife to help delaminate,
though.  Milk jugs are different. As an aside, you can become rich
pretty quickly if you can figure out how to build a lighter beer can.
There are 3 or 4 different alloys in there. I'd say both are well
engineered for a specific purpose and to a cost.

Anyways, as far as suitability for use:



Dunno about 50 psi into 15 psi and puddling. I could only speculate
there. Maybe as the intercooler  external sprayer tank?

BTW, creative wrapping with fiber reinforced packing tape produced
minimal gains in burst pressures of the bottles as determined
experimentally :) (water rockets as science!)

Ok, for the crazy idea. A pressure muliplying cylinder with greatly
different areas. Think of a diesel injector run off shop air pressure
with a big piston and a little piston, and a return spring, piston
ported. Not practical for 0.5 gallons per second (unless the big piston
is the diameter of the spare well) but for smaller pint (half pint?)
sized bursts.

-Seth

Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
> > > Please.  That's not even a poor idea.  Hot soaks temps can get really
> high
> > > exploding plastic is like sharpnel.
>
> > So put it in the trunk?  Either way, 150 psi was yield limit. I believe
> > they said that failure was more like a seam split near the neck, not
> > splinters. So it might be okay for someone who wants a 50 psi system.
> > When you think about it, they ARE highly engineered pressure vessels.
> > Pretty efficient per pound and cost, I think. IIRC, they are several
> > layers (coextruded? comolded? something like that.)
>
> Friend of mine was a mold maker, and did the mold machining for some major
> bottlers.  Just blow molded when he was doing them a few years ago.
> Again, pressure vessels ain't to be taken lightly.
> Highly engineered, sounds like an overstatement, they carry carbonated
> beverages,
> 50 PSI on a 15 PSI system will wind up with puddles of water, as I see
> things.
> Grumpy
>
-

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