DIY_EFI Digest V5 #518
DIY_EFI Digest
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner at diy-efi.org
Sat Mar 10 16:42:33 GMT 2001
DIY_EFI Digest Sunday, March 4 2001 Volume 05 : Number 518
In this issue:
Re: new Honda NTK sensor price
Re: HV DC ignition (was RE: CDI ...)
Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project
Re: HV DC ignition (was RE: CDI ...)
Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.
Re: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project
Re: Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.
Re: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project
Cal Map Software for Accel DFI
RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI
See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 08:37:23 -0500
From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines at lingenfelter.com>
Subject: Re: new Honda NTK sensor price
Sorry, sometimes I forget the international scope of this mailing list (you
would think the Spanish, French and German junk mail I now get would remind
me 8-) ). Yes, I was talking US dollars.
BTW - thanks for the information on trying Canadian Honda dealers.
Jason
> > I thought some people might be interested to know that I called my local
> > Honda dealer to get a price and availability quote on the Honda NTK
> sensor.
> > The price has gone up even higher. They quoted me a list price of
$296.85.
> > Jason
>
> I am safe to assume that this is a 'merican price? The Canadian Honda
list
> price for the 36531-P07-003 is $213.57, which I wholesale for $181.53 Cdn.
> That works out to about $120 US. Just start ordering them from a Canadian
> dealer. These price differences are quite common in fact and go either
way.
> If you are looking for a Honda part and the price seems out of wack, try
> across the border. Oh yah, I also checked availability and Honda Can has
> about 40 of these in stock.
>
> Chris "Mighty Mouse" Capowski
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 11:42:55 -0800
From: "Andrew R. Ghali" <andrewg at 16paws.com>
Subject: Re: HV DC ignition (was RE: CDI ...)
Let me throw my 2 cents in here for what it's worth: the problem with DC is
turning it on & off. Generally, a CDI uses an SCR (silicon controlled
rectifier) which works like this: when there is DC across it, it is off
and will remain off until a trigger is applied to the gate. Once this
happens, the SCR will remain switched on with a low impedence until the
voltage across it goes to 0 (i.e. a zero crossing). This is what the
capacitor does for you - it discharges through the coil primary until it's
vlotage drops to zero, when the SCR shuts off (the zero crossing is actually
due to th LC tank formed by the cap and coil). SCR's are used because they
dissipate low power, require lower drive current, are small and cheap. If
you tried to switch HV DC directly to the coil, you'd have to use industrial
switching transistors rated for at least 600V, with a substantial HV diode
behind it so the back EMF from the coil (at switch off) doesn't instantly
destroy the transistor. These devices are larger, more expensive, disappate
more power and require more drive than an SCR. At least, this is my under-
standing of the issue.
Here's a reference on SCR's: http://www.americanmicrosemi.com/tutorials/scr.htm
Hope that helps a little bit.
Andrew
On Fri, 2 Mar 2001 07:41:24 -0800 (PST), Carter Shore <clshore at yahoo.com> wrote:
>...
>Sure, I'd drive the coil with a push-pull DC switching
>circuit, an H bridge driver. There are already power
>IC's to do this, for controlling DC motors and such.
>
>You would need to calculate the frequency of the
>pulses (and perhaps still use one of those pesky
>capacitors) to match the coil and configuration. The
>output of the coil would be a sinusoid (approximately)
>of constant peak voltage, though it would be clipped
>to the arc over voltage of the plug at each firing.
>
>The number of pulses delivered would be controlled by
>the ECU 'gating' signal.
>
>There would still be some energy left in the system at
>gate OFF time, so you might need to absorb that
>somehow. But it might be OK to just let it dissipate
>naturally, or perhaps short the primary through a
>shunt resistor.
>
>One circuit for each spark plug. Sounds like a CNP
>module.(!?)
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 15:40:11 -0800
From: "Shad Laws" <shad at aircooled.net>
Subject: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project
Hello-
I just joined DIY-EFI and hope I'll be able to contribute some info as well
as draw
some from you guys :-)
Here's my project: a 1971 VW Karmann Ghia, running a modified,
upright-cooling-converted 1973 Porsche 914 2.0L engine with air conditioning
that I built.
For ignition control, I'm currently using a fully-adjustable dual-advance
distributor (which isn't all that bad...), made from mixing and matching
parts from old VW Bosch distributors (see March-May 2001 "VW Trends" to see
how... :-). Of course, it operates without points and with a CDI box, so
it's pretty nice. I don't really feel a great need to toy with this...
However, it also has a "well-tuned" pair of Weber 40IDFs w/ 32mm venturis.
"Well-tuned" is a very relative term - they are still carburetors and I
would like to see them go! Taking cross-country trips with bags of spare
jets for the Rockies is neat in that esoteric sort of way, but it gets old.
I purchased the entire intake system from a 1984 Mercedes 190E 4-cylinder
2.3L. It is a KE-Jetronic system, which is essentially a purely mechanical
fuel injection system with an electromagnetic control valve to alter the
mixture from ideal as needed. This (and something to the fuel pump in the
way of a relay or something of course) is the only output I want from the
electronics system. I do plan to design a setup so I can change the current
manually in the event of a failure, because around 10mA of current, a pot to
adjust it, and a fuel mixture LED strip (which I already have) should do the
trick nicely.
Anyway, I already have the design for the non-electronic part of the system,
complete with tuned runners and plenum to take advantage of resonance
induction effects and the stock 2 3/8" Mercedes throttle body. That should
be
more than adequate...
Here's the catch: the KE-Jetronic ECU likes water temperature as an input
and wants my car to run mostly stochiometric. The aircooled engine wants to
be rich under load, around 0.94 or so does nicely. By WOT, like any engine,
0.85 does make the seat of your pants happier, too. So, I planned to toy
with the signal coming from the lambda sensor to force the computer into
letting me run rich. However, after awhile, I realized that this band-aid
approach was too much of a pain for what it was worth, especially after all
the wiring diagrams I got for the danged ECU conflicted with one another and
with the available pins on the device itself!
Here's what I have as inputs:
- -lambda O2 sensor on exhaust (4-wire type, so heats up quickly) [voltage]
- -cylinder head temperature (thermocouple on a spark plug) [voltage]
- -"engine speed" (cheap and easy - use the DF terminal from the generator)
[voltage]
- -closed throttle and WOT [toggle switches]
- -throttle position sensor (currently a pot on the design board, but open to
suggestions...) [resistance]
I'm an ME and a ChE, so EE is the number one area I'd need help in :-) I
have a good knowledge of electricity, fabrication, logic, programming,
thermodynamics, mathematics, yadda yadda yadda, but just a very
superficial base in electronics.
BTW, on the "engine speed," I could also use the magnetic triggering module
as a sensor - it gives a 12V pulse every time a spark plug fires. However,
that's more accurate than I need... Since I still have a generator, there is
a signal to the generator given by the voltage regulator to offset the
voltage (which increases with RPM) enough so the net output is 12-14V. I
figured it was a cheap and easy way to get a simple, although not terribly
accurate, voltage reading.
Ideally, what I'd like is the following:
- -Use the CHT as my engine temperature sensor, giving me a bit to warm up by.
- -Use a custom-built mixture profile using throttle position and the WOT
switch as its variables to tell what my mixture should be.
- -Use the lambda sensor to tell what the current mixture is (yes, I know it
gets somewhat insensitive as you go away from 1.00)
- -Use the closed throttle switch and the "engine speed" sensor to tell when
the throttle is closed and I'm over about 2000rpm so I can kill the fuel
supply, making mother earth happy with me :-)
- -Use the "engine speed" sensor to tell when I'm over around 6000rpm to kill
the fuel supply, making my engine innards very happy with my failed shift
:-)
I *think* that using an old laptop running in MS-DOS with GWBASIC or
something of that nature would provide a stable, simple, and RELIABLE
processor for the whole thing. On paper, it looks pretty easy:
- -inputs: 3 voltage, 1 resistance, 2 toggle switch
- -outputs: 1 current
...and NO ignition pulses to count or injector pulses to give!
Simplicity...
I can build the data tables and write the code, but designing the interface
card for the computer is where I need help. How would I go about doing
this, or is there something I can already buy? Anyone toyed with cards from
companies like Elan Digital Systems in the UK?
I also plan to use a seperate solenoid triggered by the A/C system I built
to open a bypass valve to raise my idle with the A/C, but this can be
entirely seperate from the rest of the system.
Thank you for your time - I really do appreciate it. I thank you in advance
for any help/advice you could give and hope I can give back the same...
Take care,
Shad Laws
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 13:39:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HV DC ignition (was RE: CDI ...)
Yah,
that was my initial objection to the DC scheme too.
But what I failed to include in my last response, was
to also put a HV DC rectifier circuit between the coil
secondary and the spark plug. This would allow you to
drive the primary of the coil with the H bridge
driver, gated by the ECM, and create the desired HV DC
( > 25,000 V) at the spark plug. The technology for HV
DC rectifiers is certainly mature, having been used in
TV's for at least 25 years.
But once again, I must ask, is there any advantage?
Carter Shore
- --- "Andrew R. Ghali" <andrewg at 16paws.com> wrote:
>
> Let me throw my 2 cents in here for what it's worth:
> the problem with DC is
> turning it on & off. Generally, a CDI uses an SCR
> (silicon controlled
> rectifier) which works like this: when there is DC
> across it, it is off
> and will remain off until a trigger is applied to
> the gate. Once this
> happens, the SCR will remain switched on with a low
> impedence until the
> voltage across it goes to 0 (i.e. a zero crossing).
> This is what the
> capacitor does for you - it discharges through the
> coil primary until it's
> vlotage drops to zero, when the SCR shuts off (the
> zero crossing is actually
> due to th LC tank formed by the cap and coil).
> SCR's are used because they
> dissipate low power, require lower drive current,
> are small and cheap. If
> you tried to switch HV DC directly to the coil,
> you'd have to use industrial
> switching transistors rated for at least 600V, with
> a substantial HV diode
> behind it so the back EMF from the coil (at switch
> off) doesn't instantly
> destroy the transistor. These devices are larger,
> more expensive, disappate
> more power and require more drive than an SCR. At
> least, this is my under-
> standing of the issue.
>
> Here's a reference on SCR's:
> http://www.americanmicrosemi.com/tutorials/scr.htm
>
> Hope that helps a little bit.
>
> Andrew
>
> On Fri, 2 Mar 2001 07:41:24 -0800 (PST), Carter
> Shore <clshore at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >...
> >Sure, I'd drive the coil with a push-pull DC
> switching
> >circuit, an H bridge driver. There are already
> power
> >IC's to do this, for controlling DC motors and
> such.
> >
> >You would need to calculate the frequency of the
> >pulses (and perhaps still use one of those pesky
> >capacitors) to match the coil and configuration.
> The
> >output of the coil would be a sinusoid
> (approximately)
> >of constant peak voltage, though it would be
> clipped
> >to the arc over voltage of the plug at each firing.
> >
> >The number of pulses delivered would be controlled
> by
> >the ECU 'gating' signal.
> >
> >There would still be some energy left in the system
> at
> >gate OFF time, so you might need to absorb that
> >somehow. But it might be OK to just let it
> dissipate
> >naturally, or perhaps short the primary through a
> >shunt resistor.
> >
> >One circuit for each spark plug. Sounds like a CNP
> >module.(!?)
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 02:53:20 +0100
From: espen hilde <mwichstr at online.no>
Subject: Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.
Hi!
Trying to help a friend who has a used 1987 Mazda 323 16v turbo 260hp
groupe A
Rally car.He has not driven the car and has problems getting the engine to
start. he wants to partisipate in a rally in a week.
First he discovered a bad vier for +to the coil inside the car ,this was
fixed and the engine started ,he tuched the trottle and the engine died. No
sparks
after that.
The car has a early Zytec injection the driver for the injectors are in a
separate box and the driver for coil and coil are Rover / Lucas.
The crank trigger is a thin plate with a missing 5cm part,its a hall sensor
.
this sensor is allmost brand new because of vier break near the sensor.
when I ohm ed this sensor with 3 viers one black one green and one red,
It ohmed 165ohm between the black and red vier,the green did not give any
ohm at all ,and no signal when tested with a regular digital ohm meter was
readed when trying to start the engine .Measuring the connector from ecu
gave 12v from red and 12 v from green and black was ground.I did not hear
any clikking when listening to the injectors with a piece of steel.5 volts
was present to the sensors at ignition on .I tought the ecu or driver box
was dead since it was no activity at the injectors but after I checked with
a volt meter
it was flikking volts when cranking,later I checked the input to the coil
driver the same way and it was some changing voltage at cranking.
Anyone now how to check the hall sensor properly?
Maybe the coil driver is bad,is it possible to test this easy?
Can any coil driver be used?
Thanks in advance for any input.
Espen .
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 21:34:44 -0600
From: Holly and Chris Mills <scmills at tntech.edu>
Subject: Re: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project
Wow. You're heading down the same route I have been pondering - almost on
the same car.
I've got a '78 Bus and a '65 Beetle with a '78 Bus engine in it (converted
to upright via the 911 replica kit - but I'm going to rework the lower
shrouds to control warm up) and I want to eventually convert both to
KE-Jetronic. The bus is running the OEM stuff and the Beetle was running
dual Dells - 36mm the last I drove it.
I'm mostly working on exterior looks but reading as much as I can about
this type conversion for the fuel system so when I get there I'll be ready.
Please post your results as you go along, I'd love to follow along and learn.
At 05:40 PM 3/3/01, you wrote:
>Hello-
>
>I just joined DIY-EFI and hope I'll be able to contribute some info as well
>as draw
>some from you guys :-)
>
>Here's my project: a 1971 VW Karmann Ghia, running a modified,
>upright-cooling-converted 1973 Porsche 914 2.0L engine with air conditioning
>that I built.
>
>For ignition control, I'm currently using a fully-adjustable dual-advance
>distributor (which isn't all that bad...), made from mixing and matching
>parts from old VW Bosch distributors (see March-May 2001 "VW Trends" to see
>how... :-). Of course, it operates without points and with a CDI box, so
>it's pretty nice. I don't really feel a great need to toy with this...
>
>However, it also has a "well-tuned" pair of Weber 40IDFs w/ 32mm venturis.
>"Well-tuned" is a very relative term - they are still carburetors and I
>would like to see them go! Taking cross-country trips with bags of spare
>jets for the Rockies is neat in that esoteric sort of way, but it gets old.
>
>I purchased the entire intake system from a 1984 Mercedes 190E 4-cylinder
>2.3L. It is a KE-Jetronic system, which is essentially a purely mechanical
>fuel injection system with an electromagnetic control valve to alter the
>mixture from ideal as needed. This (and something to the fuel pump in the
>way of a relay or something of course) is the only output I want from the
>electronics system. I do plan to design a setup so I can change the current
>manually in the event of a failure, because around 10mA of current, a pot to
>adjust it, and a fuel mixture LED strip (which I already have) should do the
>trick nicely.
>
>Anyway, I already have the design for the non-electronic part of the system,
>complete with tuned runners and plenum to take advantage of resonance
>induction effects and the stock 2 3/8" Mercedes throttle body. That should
>be
>more than adequate...
>
>Here's the catch: the KE-Jetronic ECU likes water temperature as an input
>and wants my car to run mostly stochiometric. The aircooled engine wants to
>be rich under load, around 0.94 or so does nicely. By WOT, like any engine,
>0.85 does make the seat of your pants happier, too. So, I planned to toy
>with the signal coming from the lambda sensor to force the computer into
>letting me run rich. However, after awhile, I realized that this band-aid
>approach was too much of a pain for what it was worth, especially after all
>the wiring diagrams I got for the danged ECU conflicted with one another and
>with the available pins on the device itself!
>
>Here's what I have as inputs:
>-lambda O2 sensor on exhaust (4-wire type, so heats up quickly) [voltage]
>-cylinder head temperature (thermocouple on a spark plug) [voltage]
>-"engine speed" (cheap and easy - use the DF terminal from the generator)
>[voltage]
>-closed throttle and WOT [toggle switches]
>-throttle position sensor (currently a pot on the design board, but open to
>suggestions...) [resistance]
>
>I'm an ME and a ChE, so EE is the number one area I'd need help in :-) I
>have a good knowledge of electricity, fabrication, logic, programming,
>thermodynamics, mathematics, yadda yadda yadda, but just a very
>superficial base in electronics.
>
>BTW, on the "engine speed," I could also use the magnetic triggering module
>as a sensor - it gives a 12V pulse every time a spark plug fires. However,
>that's more accurate than I need... Since I still have a generator, there is
>a signal to the generator given by the voltage regulator to offset the
>voltage (which increases with RPM) enough so the net output is 12-14V. I
>figured it was a cheap and easy way to get a simple, although not terribly
>accurate, voltage reading.
>
>Ideally, what I'd like is the following:
>-Use the CHT as my engine temperature sensor, giving me a bit to warm up by.
>-Use a custom-built mixture profile using throttle position and the WOT
>switch as its variables to tell what my mixture should be.
>-Use the lambda sensor to tell what the current mixture is (yes, I know it
>gets somewhat insensitive as you go away from 1.00)
>-Use the closed throttle switch and the "engine speed" sensor to tell when
>the throttle is closed and I'm over about 2000rpm so I can kill the fuel
>supply, making mother earth happy with me :-)
>-Use the "engine speed" sensor to tell when I'm over around 6000rpm to kill
>the fuel supply, making my engine innards very happy with my failed shift
>:-)
>
>I *think* that using an old laptop running in MS-DOS with GWBASIC or
>something of that nature would provide a stable, simple, and RELIABLE
>processor for the whole thing. On paper, it looks pretty easy:
>-inputs: 3 voltage, 1 resistance, 2 toggle switch
>-outputs: 1 current
>...and NO ignition pulses to count or injector pulses to give!
>Simplicity...
>
>I can build the data tables and write the code, but designing the interface
>card for the computer is where I need help. How would I go about doing
>this, or is there something I can already buy? Anyone toyed with cards from
>companies like Elan Digital Systems in the UK?
>
>I also plan to use a seperate solenoid triggered by the A/C system I built
>to open a bypass valve to raise my idle with the A/C, but this can be
>entirely seperate from the rest of the system.
>
>Thank you for your time - I really do appreciate it. I thank you in advance
>for any help/advice you could give and hope I can give back the same...
>
>Take care,
>Shad Laws
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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CHRIS in Middle Tennessee
scmills at tntech.edu
ICQ: 5944649
'78 VW Westfalia
'65 Beetle (Type IV powered)
'99 CR-V 5 speed
'49 Chevy 3100 Pickup
'81 Honda CB900C
For Sale: 1and a half LM 110HP Corvair motors $125
1 LM 3.55 4 speed Corvair tranny $75
1 EM 80 HP engine $100
1 set of header pipes for a Corvair $25
1 adaptor plate for Corvair engine to VW transaxle
$25
1 1949 Chevy Pickup, 3100, black, original, good driver
restored bed, no rust, 6V $3000
I VW bus driver's door $25 (no glass)
1 VW bus rear hatch $18 (glass)
'72 Hodaka Wombat Enduro (no lights anymore, needs
clutch) $150
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 23:52:10 -0700
From: "Programmer" <nwester at eidnet.org>
Subject: Re: Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.
Do you have a labscope ? Can you view the pattern from the
hall effect--engine cranking ? It should be a nice clean square wave--same
voltage
out as supplied voltage.
Lyndon.
- -----Original Message-----
From: espen hilde <mwichstr at online.no>
To: 'diy_efi at diy-efi.org' <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Date: March 3, 2001 6:48 PM
Subject: Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.
>Hi!
>Trying to help a friend who has a used 1987 Mazda 323 16v turbo 260hp
>groupe A
>Rally car.He has not driven the car and has problems getting the engine to
>start. he wants to partisipate in a rally in a week.
>First he discovered a bad vier for +to the coil inside the car ,this was
>fixed and the engine started ,he tuched the trottle and the engine died. No
>sparks
>after that.
>The car has a early Zytec injection the driver for the injectors are in a
>separate box and the driver for coil and coil are Rover / Lucas.
>The crank trigger is a thin plate with a missing 5cm part,its a hall sensor
>.
>this sensor is allmost brand new because of vier break near the sensor.
>when I ohm ed this sensor with 3 viers one black one green and one red,
>It ohmed 165ohm between the black and red vier,the green did not give any
>ohm at all ,and no signal when tested with a regular digital ohm meter was
>readed when trying to start the engine .Measuring the connector from ecu
>gave 12v from red and 12 v from green and black was ground.I did not hear
>any clikking when listening to the injectors with a piece of steel.5 volts
>was present to the sensors at ignition on .I tought the ecu or driver box
>was dead since it was no activity at the injectors but after I checked with
>a volt meter
>it was flikking volts when cranking,later I checked the input to the coil
>driver the same way and it was some changing voltage at cranking.
>Anyone now how to check the hall sensor properly?
>Maybe the coil driver is bad,is it possible to test this easy?
>Can any coil driver be used?
>Thanks in advance for any input.
>Espen .
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
>in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 23:44:20 -0800
From: "Shad Laws" <shad at aircooled.net>
Subject: Re: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project
Hey Chris-
> I've got a '78 Bus and a '65 Beetle with a '78 Bus engine in it (converted
> to upright via the 911 replica kit - but I'm going to rework the lower
> shrouds to control warm up) and I want to eventually convert both to
> KE-Jetronic. The bus is running the OEM stuff and the Beetle was running
> dual Dells - 36mm the last I drove it.
>
> Please post your results as you go along, I'd love to follow along and
learn.
Well, here's the details of the design as they stand now:
First off, I found the biggest 4-cylinder engine I could with a KE-Jet
system, and tried to shy away from engines with ignition timing and/or extra
goodies I didn't want (i.e. pre-1986 is nice). So, I nabbed the complete
intake and fuel delivery system from the '84 Mercedes 2.3L. It has a 60mm
throttle body which, according to my calculations, is more than plenty for
my 5800rpm 2.0L engine :-)
I'm taking stock Porsche 914 2.0L runners and modifying them. Basically,
I'm cutting them off before they turn and hit my fan shroud and modifying
the injector bosses and holders to accept the CIS injectors, then bolting
these modified units straight on. They are beautiful, well-cast, smooth
pieces - gotta take advantage of them! Then, I noted that the OD of these
runners (after the cast-on part near the very end - they're pretty thin
after those end) is almost exactly 1.5". So, I found a source for
smooth-walled 1.5" ID silicone rubber flex hose to go over them. I can very
easily cut this flex hose to any length I want, making tuning for resonance
induction effects a snap. Then, I'll make a simple plenum with a volume
that will aid in the resonance tuning to mate the four runners and a 2.5"
flex hose of the same type as the other stuff. This flex hose will run to
the right side of the engine compartment (lotsa room there in a Ghia) to
meet the throttle body (which is very nicely connected to the air flow meter
and fuel distributor thanks to Mercedes...). The air cleaner I'll fabricate
myself and I haven't decided whether to use a paper element for it or just
make an all-out oil bath cleaner, but I know that I'd like to stay away from
the K&N so-called "filters." Of course, for fuel delivery I'm just using
the Mercedes fuel pump and related goodies along with two new lines I'll
have to run <sigh>. On paper, the setup sounds pretty nice! We'll see how
it all fits together in the end...
The electronics part I talked about in the other post... Right now, I
heavily leaning toward ready-made electronics, i.e. a laptop and a specialty
interface PCMCIA card. That keeps the electronic fabrication to a minimum
(my weak point) and the programming/design/etc. part to a maximum (my strong
point). Plus, the programming is much simpler than it would be for pulsed
injection... coupled with my fully-adjustable dual-advance distributor w/o
points and w/ a CDI box, it'll do nicely for a simple and adjustable setup.
In fact, if the entire electronics system fails, all I have to do is supply
a variable current to the electromagnetic valve (adjustable by a pot) and
the car keeps going on purely non-electronic means. Beautiful for when I'm
beta testing this while travelling cross-country :-)
Take care,
Shad
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 01:00:47 EST
From: RSRACE at aol.com
Subject: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI
- --part1_68.c8c3a85.27d3340f_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Does anyone have the software for Accel DFI. I am looking at purchasing it
for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save
$200. E-mail me if you have info.
Thanks
Tom
- --part1_68.c8c3a85.27d3340f_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Does anyone have the software for Accel DFI. I am looking at purchasing it
<BR>for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save
<BR>$200. E-mail me if you have info.
<BR>
<BR>Thanks
<BR>Tom</FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 22:24:51 -0800
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy at earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0A430.C3AF3980
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Tom,
I read an article about a gent that worked for Accels parent company that
just built this wicked 1000 hp turbo motor. he was using the latest version
of the CalMap software (CalMap 2001 or something like that). this is
supposed to go along with their next gen ECM's that I hear are not out yet.
from what I understand, both are supposed to be worth the wait. one of the
guys on this list (Pretty sure it was this list), just got the new eval
version of it & was goo goo about it. he said that he had to call them to
get them to send it to him.
from what it sounds Accel is pretty serious about this now & are making
stuff to compete with the WBO2 units & w/easier programmability.
Good luck
Bob Wooten
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of RSRACE at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:01 PM
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI
Does anyone have the software for Accel DFI. I am looking at purchasing
it
for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save
$200. E-mail me if you have info.
Thanks
Tom
- ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0A430.C3AF3980
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001>Tom,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D050501906-04032001>I read=20
an article about a gent that worked for Accels parent company that just =
built=20
this wicked 1000 hp turbo motor. he was using the latest version =
of the=20
CalMap software (CalMap 2001 or something like that). this is =
supposed to=20
go along with their next gen ECM's that I hear are not out yet. =
from what=20
I understand, both are supposed to be worth the wait. one of the =
guys on=20
this list (Pretty sure it was this list), just got the new eval version =
of it=20
& was goo goo about it. he said that he had to call them to =
get them=20
to send it to him. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D050501906-04032001>from=20
what it sounds Accel is pretty serious about this now & are making =
stuff to=20
compete with the WBO2 units & w/easier =
programmability.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D050501906-04032001>Good=20
luck</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D050501906-04032001>Bob=20
Wooten</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org=20
[mailto:owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org]<B>On Behalf Of=20
</B>RSRACE at aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:01=20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> diy_efi at diy-efi.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Cal Map =
Software for=20
Accel DFI<BR><BR></DIV></FONT><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
size=3D2>Does=20
anyone have the software for Accel DFI. I am looking at =
purchasing it=20
<BR>for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and =
possibly save=20
<BR>$200. E-mail me if you have info. <BR><BR>Thanks =
<BR>Tom</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
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