Wiring harness construction technique question

[David Hunt]

Knit and pick all you want to but the FACT is that a tin connector to tin
connector is likely to outlive a tin to gold connector by orders of
magnitude.  Agreed a gold to gold connector will outlive a tin to tin.  The
gold on most connectors is measured in microinches increments and that does
not full cover the base metal.  The base metal will react with the tin.

Heck, the gold and tin will create a "battery" and give you a dc offset.
Really, Gold to Tin is a waste of gold (and tin.)


----- Original Message -----
From: "chris abreu" <christopher_abreu at hotmail.com>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 11:27 PM
Subject: Re: Wiring harness construction technique question


> Sorry to knit pick, but gold plating is used because it is the least
> corrosive material in the galvanic series next to platinum.  This means it
> will not corrode or will corrode extremely slowly no matter what it is in
> contact with when speaking of car applications where galvanic corrosion is
> dominate.
>
> chris
>
>
> I would like to put emphasis on one line below.
>
>
> "Never mix terminal plating to avoid corrosion problems."
>
>
> Gold terminals are not completely gold, but rather a flash on another
> metallic surface (like nickel) and if they are mated with a contact of
> another technology, it may be very detrimental to the system.
>
>
> Gold to gold. Tin to tin....etc.
>
>
> dh
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley at eaton.com>
> To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 7:29 AM
> Subject: RE: Wiring harness construction technique question
>
>
>
> >Some clarification of Roy's post for those in the US.
> >Modern OEM wiring is intended for low cost, but they have
> >to use componentry good enough to avoid warranty costs.
> >Gold terminals ARE preferred on signal wires of low voltage.
> >Never mix terminal platings to avoid corrosion problems.
> >Connector disconnect/connect life cycles on US spec terminals is
> >higher than 10 IMHO, more like 100 cycles.
> >Most aftermarket connectors are not weatherproof.  The typical ring
> >terminal would be bad in a corrosive environment (the rust belt)
> >Most US OEM wire is NOT PVC. OEM's use XLPE(cross linked polyethelene)
> >which does not cold flow like PVC under a weatherseal.  I know of
> >no full service vendor in the US using a PVC or PTFE covering for
> >their major customers.  This includes Packard/Delphi, Yazaki, Siemens,
> >Tyco, etc.  Most everyone is using corrugated tubing with various tape
> >coverings depending on Temp/environment.  Note that not all split
> corrugated
> >tubing is the same.  There are several different types with different
temp
> >ratings.  Tape has a temp spec also.
> >For the average guy in this list, if it's a daily driver, just use a
> >Delphi/Packard
> >weatherpak connector for your critical connections, cover wires with high
> >temp
> >tubing and tape and call it good.
> >If it's a weekend warrior / summer hero type car, you can get away with
> lots
> >worse
> >connectors/terminals, Zip tied bundles, etc.
> >And if you live in the rust belt, and drive it in the winter, (I do) God
> >help you.  Get the best weatherproof connectors, protect all your wires
> from
> >abrasion,
> >don't puncture the wires for testing (it WILL be a future failure).
> >Moisture / salt will actually wick into the wiring through any punctures
> and
> >become a
> >corrosion failure at that spot.
> >
> > >
> > > Then you have the wire, this falls into several
> > > catagories.  Most OEM's are using thin walled PVC
> > > which is a cheap grade of wire when compared to what
> > > the racing industry are using, this being thin walled
> > > PTFE at at least 20 times the price and here in the UK
> > > is classed as type 44 or 45 which is an aircraft grade
> > > wire.
> > >
> > > Most OEM,s are not to concerned by the loom finish, it
> > > is space tapped where it is out of sight but a mix of
> > > taping and corregated split PVC tubbing is used around
> > > the engine bay to make it a little tiddyier.
> > >
> > > I use a range of finishes from PVC tubing, lacing cord
> > > to the expensive heatshrink looms using moulded
> > > transitions.
> > >
> > > Looms should be fitted so as they do not obstruct
> > > access to any major components, and so that they
> > > cannot be accidently damaged when say removing an
> > > engine.  I often use an engine dress loom that plugs
> > > staight into a connector on my bulkhead.
> > >
> > >          thanks Roy  ( Spectric's Ltd )
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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