Pics of pistons
Tom Sharpe
twsharpe at mtco.com
Tue Oct 16 02:31:03 GMT 2001
A70Duster at aol.com wrote:
> << 10/4 to Greg. Go to http://www.mtco.com/~twsharpe/images/Piston2.jpg >>
>
> Question to Tom.
>
> Judging by the pin location in the oil rings, I assume that you have a SBC
> piston with a 6" rod. I also assume with a custom setup like that, you
> gapped the rings. Yes
>
> What compression was the engine and how was the engine used (daily driver,
> drag strip)?? Street thriller - had 5K miles on it when it failed. 10.25-10.29
> compression. New injectors and fuel pump - finally got power to 6K rpm w/o going
> lean.
>
> First, what did you gap the rings at? <.035, zero gap second > From the damage,
> it looks like the top ring gap was too tight, the extra heat expanded/butted the
> top ring together
> and the weakest part of the piston broke off (valve relief to top ring lan)
> when the top ring was "seizing" in the bore. << Maybe but.... Pistons
> ceramic coated along w/ combustion chamber also causes heat to flow to the top
> ring. Problem was block distortion, the head studs were pulling the bores out
> of round. I don't have pictures but there are zebra stripes at the top of the
> bore next to the center head studs, about 1/2" wide shinny strip at the stud
> location w/ dark (non touching) areas on both sides about 3/8" wide followed by
> normal wear areas. These were in the top 3/4 - 1" of the bore - and it was
> bored/honed w/ torque plates. Might have gotten by w/ 5.7 rods.....
Anyone want a block cheap. Just wanted to say that finding the weak link is more
expensive than forged pistons.
>
> If that is the case, then blaming a hypereutectic for breaking like it did is
> like blaming a hand tighten rod bolt that failed.
>
> Looking at pic
>
> http://www.mtco.com/~twsharpe/images/Piston1.jpg
>
> it is more obvious that there are "detonation" imprints on the piston. << ???
> please explain >> Again
> assume a SBC, there is damage in the quench area. Did you notice (audible)
> detonation/pre ignition? No knock - 93 no-lead. Engine never saw full throttle
> under 3500 rpm. some damage is crow bar marks getting the heads off --- I was
> in a hurry.
Advance curve was conservative - could make it knock by adding 6-8 deg. spark
advance.
>
> Did you have open chamber heads? And did you know what the quench height was?
Brodix -8's, deck was +.003 to +005 , quench was ~ .035 never touched the heads.
I've seen others w/ marks from the sonic flow towards the center of the CC.
>
> Sorry for the 20 questions. I'd would rather learn from people's past
> experience.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
More information about the Diy_efi
mailing list