From sc7500 at sonic.net  Fri Sep  3 00:07:54 2004
From: sc7500 at sonic.net (sc7500)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 20:07:54 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Are we all on vacation ?
Message-ID: <mailman.61412.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Haven't rec'd anything from the board membership for quite some time.

Anyone alive out there ?

-- 
B.T.C.


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From mfrels at ix.netcom.com  Fri Sep  3 00:23:54 2004
From: mfrels at ix.netcom.com (Mike Frels)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 20:23:54 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Are we all on vacation ?
Message-ID: <mailman.61413.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

I dunno about everyone else but I been busy with work. Little time to work on car related projects other keeping mine in good enough tune to carry me back and forth.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: sc7500 <sc7500 at sonic.net>
Sent: Sep 2, 2004 6:52 PM
To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Subject: [Diy_efi] Are we all on vacation ?

Haven't rec'd anything from the board membership for quite some time.

Anyone alive out there ?

-- 
B.T.C.

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From gpbeau at cox.net  Fri Sep  3 01:08:36 2004
From: gpbeau at cox.net (Garrett P. Beauregard)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 21:08:36 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?
Message-ID: <mailman.61414.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Here's a marginally off-topic question to fill the current lull.

Does anyone have any experience with the freeware/shareware programs out
there (like TwEECer) used for tuning and modifying some of the Ford EEC ECU
systems?

Please e-mail me off list if you can.


THANKS

Garrett
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From jimbutterfield at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  3 02:31:30 2004
From: jimbutterfield at yahoo.com (Jim Butterfield)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 22:31:30 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Are we all on vacation ?
Message-ID: <mailman.61415.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

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Its summer time... were all out having fun

sc7500 <sc7500 at sonic.net> wrote:Haven't rec'd anything from the board membership for quite some time.

Anyone alive out there ?

-- 
B.T.C.


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<DIV>Its summer time... were all out having fun<BR><BR><B><I>sc7500 &lt;sc7500 at sonic.net&gt;</I></B> wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Haven't rec'd anything from the board membership for quite some time.<BR><BR>Anyone alive out there ?<BR><BR>-- <BR>B.T.C.<BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>diy_efi mailing list<BR>diy_efi at diy-efi.org<BR>http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><p>
		<hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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From A6intruder at adelphia.net  Fri Sep  3 02:51:39 2004
From: A6intruder at adelphia.net (Daniel R. Nicoson)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 22:51:39 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?
Message-ID: <mailman.61416.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Why would that be off topic?

Yes, I've been tuning my Mustang for two years.  EEC Tuner using the related
software.

Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Garrett P. Beauregard
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 8:52 PM
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?


Here's a marginally off-topic question to fill the current lull.

Does anyone have any experience with the freeware/shareware programs out
there (like TwEECer) used for tuning and modifying some of the Ford EEC ECU
systems?

Please e-mail me off list if you can.


THANKS

Garrett
---
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From dogleg_racing at hotmail.com  Fri Sep  3 04:43:49 2004
From: dogleg_racing at hotmail.com (Dogleg Racing)
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 00:43:49 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Flat slide throttle - How to 
Message-ID: <mailman.61417.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

can anyone point to resources - internet or otherwise - on how to build a 
flat slide throttle similar to the older BMW Schnitzer/Alpina types?

I have manufactured a 'stub' manifold with injector bosses which I plan to 
mount the flat slide throttle unit.

Cheers

Dan

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From don.broadus at exeloncorp.com  Fri Sep  3 13:36:53 2004
From: don.broadus at exeloncorp.com (don.broadus at exeloncorp.com)
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 09:36:53 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Flat slide throttle - How to
Message-ID: <mailman.61418.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

I'm working on a slide throttle for a 92 Quad 4. Just in the planning stage
now.
 Try these links for inspiration.  




http://www.enginemanagementsystems.com/products/ferrari348.html



http://www.jagweb.com/jagworld/xk-engine/page2.html








-----Original Message-----
From: Dogleg Racing [mailto:dogleg_racing at hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 11:31 PM
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: [Diy_efi] Flat slide throttle - How to 


can anyone point to resources - internet or otherwise - on how to build a 
flat slide throttle similar to the older BMW Schnitzer/Alpina types?

I have manufactured a 'stub' manifold with injector bosses which I plan to 
mount the flat slide throttle unit.

Cheers

Dan

_________________________________________________________________
FREE* Month of Movies with FOXTEL Digital:   
http://adsfac.net/link.asp?cc=FXT002.7542.0

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From gpbeau at cox.net  Sat Sep  4 21:37:53 2004
From: gpbeau at cox.net (Garrett P. Beauregard)
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 17:37:53 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?
Message-ID: <mailman.61419.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Dan,


Thanks for the response. Here's my problem: the new engine is controlled
entirely by a Motec box but the original EEC still has most of its original
inputs (MAF, crank and cam sensors, cylinder head temp, oil pressure, etc.).
The engine runs fine and the dashboard gauges and controls are doing their
thing. BUT, the A/C compressor won't come on with the selector on A/C or Max
A/C. I've jumpered the clutch relay and it works and the air blows cold, so
the system is working. We cleared out all the DTCs and the A/C came on but
only for a minute or so before one of the DTCs popped up and the system shut
off.

I'm trying to find out if one of the EEC tuners (TwEECer) can be used to
force the system to allow the A/C on even with the DTCs active.

Thanks for any ideas you have.


Garrett

-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Daniel R. Nicoson
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 7:34 PM
To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?


Why would that be off topic?

Yes, I've been tuning my Mustang for two years.  EEC Tuner using the related
software.

Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Garrett P. Beauregard
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 8:52 PM
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?


Here's a marginally off-topic question to fill the current lull.

Does anyone have any experience with the freeware/shareware programs out
there (like TwEECer) used for tuning and modifying some of the Ford EEC ECU
systems?

Please e-mail me off list if you can.


THANKS

Garrett
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From A6intruder at adelphia.net  Sun Sep  5 03:55:41 2004
From: A6intruder at adelphia.net (Daniel R. Nicoson)
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 23:55:41 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?
Message-ID: <mailman.61420.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Garrett,

What are the DTCs?  Error codes?

What year and model EEC?  What car is it in?

I looked in both software packages I use to run my EEC Tuner, they do not
have any settings to do with AC that I can see.  I am familiar with the 1994
Mustang GT EEC, T4MO.  The only thing I can think of is that when the EEC
determines it is at WOT it shuts down the AC system.  So possibly the
combination of what the EEC is calculating is that you have hit WOT and it
is shutting down the AC.  I'm not sure what other conditions would cause it
to shut down the AC.  These software packages won't do you any good without
an EEC Tuner or TwEECer hardware to manage the EEC.  That's pretty expensive
to get your AC running.

I assume your Motec is using a MAP sensor?  You say the MAF is still hooked
up to the EEC.  Is it still in the intake tract so that the intake air is
going through?  If you just have it sitting off to the side, not flowing
air, that might trip a code.  The EEC would be seeing all the other
indications of proper engine operation (RPM, temps etc.) but no airflow.  It
might think the MAF is bad and go into a limp mode which shuts off the AC.
Once or twice when re-assembling I have forgotten to connect the MAF.  The
car started right up and drove around the block, seemingly just fine but I
think I got a Check Engine Light.

IF you are leaving the MAF plugged in to keep the EEC happy but not flowing
air through it is sending a very low voltage signal to the EEC.  I would
suggest you loose the MAF altogether and try to supply the EEC it with a
"normal" signal that would suggest the MAF IS flowing air.  I just looked at
a data log, highway cruise typically sends a signal between 1 & 2 volts on
my car.  This would tell the EEC it has air flowing and not trip into a limp
mode that might turn off your EEC.

BEFORE you try the above, I just looked at the EEC connector diagram for my
car.  There are several connections concerning the AC.  Figure out what
these do and take that function away from the EEC by disconnecting them from
the computer.

Air conditioning cycling Switch input - function?

A/C WOT cutout relay - turns off AC at WOT

A/C head pressure Switch input - function?

It is never fun to trick an ECU because we don't know all the "twists and
turns" the OEM engineers wrote into the code and strategy.  I would say if
you can separate control of the AC from the EEC you might be more
successful.

Two possibilities.

Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Garrett P. Beauregard
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 5:25 PM
To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?


Dan,


Thanks for the response. Here's my problem: the new engine is controlled
entirely by a Motec box but the original EEC still has most of its original
inputs (MAF, crank and cam sensors, cylinder head temp, oil pressure, etc.).
The engine runs fine and the dashboard gauges and controls are doing their
thing. BUT, the A/C compressor won't come on with the selector on A/C or Max
A/C. I've jumpered the clutch relay and it works and the air blows cold, so
the system is working. We cleared out all the DTCs and the A/C came on but
only for a minute or so before one of the DTCs popped up and the system shut
off.

I'm trying to find out if one of the EEC tuners (TwEECer) can be used to
force the system to allow the A/C on even with the DTCs active.

Thanks for any ideas you have.


Garrett

-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Daniel R. Nicoson
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 7:34 PM
To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?


Why would that be off topic?

Yes, I've been tuning my Mustang for two years.  EEC Tuner using the related
software.

Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Garrett P. Beauregard
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 8:52 PM
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?


Here's a marginally off-topic question to fill the current lull.

Does anyone have any experience with the freeware/shareware programs out
there (like TwEECer) used for tuning and modifying some of the Ford EEC ECU
systems?

Please e-mail me off list if you can.


THANKS

Garrett
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From clair.davis at charter.net  Sun Sep  5 20:06:41 2004
From: clair.davis at charter.net (clair.davis at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 16:06:41 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] IAC Motor Wiring
Message-ID: <mailman.61421.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

In a nutshell, if I can identify which pins run each of the two coils in the
motor, does it matter if I plug coil A in to the driver for coil B, and vice
versa?

What I've got is a Dodge Magnum throttle body and associated sensors & IAC,
all of which I'll be driving with a 7730 ECU.  My understanding is that the
Mopar IAC is the same one used on the Holley Commander system, and is also
visually identical to the later GM (LT engines) IAC.  I've gotten some
wiring info from the archives regarding the LT-1 arrangement, and I've got a
small pile of wiring diagrams for the various systems used on GM vehicles
over the years.  Unfortunately, my Mopar wiring diagrams don't show a coil
"A" or "B", just that they ARE coils.  If I get the hi/lo orientation
correct but miss on the coils, will the IAC still function properly?  Seems
like it would, but that's usually when I get in to trouble...

Thanks,
Clair

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From silvershad0w at netzero.net  Sun Sep  5 21:03:56 2004
From: silvershad0w at netzero.net (silvershad0w at netzero.net)
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 17:03:56 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel Rail Boss ID for small o-ring Inj.
Message-ID: <mailman.61422.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>


Just a quick question regarding 'small o-ring' or 'japanese' injectors, like those made by Denso, etc.  I posted on the MS list without any replys so far, I need an accurate boss I.D. (feed side) for these injectors.  Here is the post as it appeared on ms-efi:

For my application, I need to use injectors with the older, square section o-ring type to fit my existing manifold. The original injectors are the 'hose feed' type, so I need to make a fuel rail to fit the more commonly available o-ring style feed. 

My 1st question is, what diameter do I need to bore the fual rail bungs to properly seal a 'japanese' style injector, since these seem to be the only type that are made for the square section o-ring on the manifold side that I can find. I have my eye on a set of Denso 550cc (@80% P.W.), P/N# 195500-1370, being sold here: 

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMODS.asp#denso 

Looking at the SDS website, one of thier tech articles says "10mm or 11mm", then goes on to suggest measuring the O.D. with calipers and then subtract .020"-.025" from that value for the fuel rail bore diameter. Is thier anyone with experience with this type of injector with some insight, so I can start drawing up the rail in CAD before I get the injectors? 

Here is a picture of these "red-topped" Denso injectors: 
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/PartsJPEGs/Injectors/RX7195500-2010_4.jpg 

My 2nd question is, if you look closely at that picture, the connector seems to be different than the normal bosch/clone type, with a groove down the side facing, and a clip on the right. Any insight regarding a possible source for the mating connectors would be appreciated. 

Lastly, if anyone has any information regarding an injector type that is the square section o-ring on the manifold side, and uses a domestic 14mm feed in a ~550cc I would greatly appreciate the tip. 

Thanks in Advance, 
John C.

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From wd0fyf at cox.net  Mon Sep  6 01:12:18 2004
From: wd0fyf at cox.net (Gerald Pelnar)
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 21:12:18 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] IAC Motor Wiring
Message-ID: <mailman.61423.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

The Dodge uses a dc motor as a throttle kicker for idle control and is not
compatible with the GM driver. There were some Cadillacs that used this kind
of IAC.  I built an external IAC for mine, but haven't gotten far enough on
the project to see how it was going to work.
 http://members.cox.net/wd0fyf/autoindex.html

Other Mopar owners suggest adapting a GM throttle body.

Gerald Pelnar
McPherson, KS
wd0fyf at cox.net
http://members.cox.net/wd0fyf/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <clair.davis at charter.net>


> What I've got is a Dodge Magnum throttle body and associated sensors &
IAC,
> all of which I'll be driving with a 7730 ECU.  My understanding is that
the
> Mopar IAC is the same one used on the Holley Commander system, and is also
> visually identical to the later GM (LT engines) IAC.  I've gotten some
> wiring info from the archives regarding the LT-1 arrangement, and I've got
a
> small pile of wiring diagrams for the various systems used on GM vehicles
> over the years.  Unfortunately, my Mopar wiring diagrams don't show a coil
> "A" or "B", just that they ARE coils.  If I get the hi/lo orientation
> correct but miss on the coils, will the IAC still function properly?
Seems
> like it would, but that's usually when I get in to trouble...
>
> Thanks,
> Clair
>
> _______________________________________________
> diy_efi mailing list
> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>

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From clair.davis at charter.net  Mon Sep  6 16:15:43 2004
From: clair.davis at charter.net (clair.davis at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 12:15:43 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] IAC Motor Wiring
Message-ID: <mailman.61424.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

The Magnum IAC is a stepper motor design, unlike the earlier TBI parts.
This is a dry TB, part of the Magnum multiport arrangement.  I think I left
that tidbit out of my previous post.  I'm so used to thinking about my
particulars, I forget to explain what I'm doing some times...

'7730 multiport injection on Mopar M1 Magnum 4-bbl intake, majority GM
sensors, with some Mopar sensors where needed to work on the TB, Mopar fuel
rails, 24# injectors, Mopar locked (lean-burn) distributor feeding a GM
ignition module in a remote box.

Other than the connector on the end, and the way it mounts to the TB, the
Magnum IAC appears functionally identical to the IAC I have on my GM TB
(converted to dry from a 454 TBI application).  The "LT" engines' IACs
appear to be almost entirely identical to the Mopar part, but the wiring
doesn't seem to be the same.  I'm just wanting to find out if one of the
coils is responsible for extending the piston, the other for retracting, or
if they both do the same job...

Clair

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gerald Pelnar" <wd0fyf at cox.net>
To: "A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] IAC Motor Wiring


> The Dodge uses a dc motor as a throttle kicker for idle control and is not
> compatible with the GM driver. There were some Cadillacs that used this
kind
> of IAC.  I built an external IAC for mine, but haven't gotten far enough
on
> the project to see how it was going to work.
>  http://members.cox.net/wd0fyf/autoindex.html
>
> Other Mopar owners suggest adapting a GM throttle body.
>
> Gerald Pelnar
> McPherson, KS
> wd0fyf at cox.net
> http://members.cox.net/wd0fyf/
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <clair.davis at charter.net>
>
>
> > What I've got is a Dodge Magnum throttle body and associated sensors &
> IAC,
> > all of which I'll be driving with a 7730 ECU.  My understanding is that
> the
> > Mopar IAC is the same one used on the Holley Commander system, and is
also
> > visually identical to the later GM (LT engines) IAC.  I've gotten some
> > wiring info from the archives regarding the LT-1 arrangement, and I've
got
> a
> > small pile of wiring diagrams for the various systems used on GM
vehicles
> > over the years.  Unfortunately, my Mopar wiring diagrams don't show a
coil
> > "A" or "B", just that they ARE coils.  If I get the hi/lo orientation
> > correct but miss on the coils, will the IAC still function properly?
> Seems
> > like it would, but that's usually when I get in to trouble...
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Clair
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > diy_efi mailing list
> > diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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From wd0fyf at cox.net  Mon Sep  6 17:13:43 2004
From: wd0fyf at cox.net (Gerald Pelnar)
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 13:13:43 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] IAC Motor Wiring
Message-ID: <mailman.61425.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Sorry, I also made assumptions, I shouldn't have.

Gerald

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <clair.davis at charter.net>
To: "A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 10:53
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] IAC Motor Wiring


> The Magnum IAC is a stepper motor design, unlike the earlier TBI parts.
> This is a dry TB, part of the Magnum multiport arrangement.  I think I
left
> that tidbit out of my previous post.  I'm so used to thinking about my
> particulars, I forget to explain what I'm doing some times...

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From rwhughe at oplink.net  Mon Sep  6 19:00:36 2004
From: rwhughe at oplink.net (Robert W Hughes)
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 15:00:36 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] IAC Motor Wiring
Message-ID: <mailman.61426.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

This motor is a stepper motor, both coils are used to move in either 
direction. Worst case, assuming you get polarities correct, if the coils 
are switched, the motor will run in the wrong direction - in instead of 
out, etc. Just switching the two coils would correct that.

> The Magnum IAC is a stepper motor design, unlike the earlier TBI parts.
> This is a dry TB, part of the Magnum multiport arrangement.  I think I left
> that tidbit out of my previous post.  I'm so used to thinking about my
> particulars, I forget to explain what I'm doing some times...
> 
> '7730 multiport injection on Mopar M1 Magnum 4-bbl intake, majority GM
> sensors, with some Mopar sensors where needed to work on the TB, Mopar fuel
> rails, 24# injectors, Mopar locked (lean-burn) distributor feeding a GM
> ignition module in a remote box.
> 
> Other than the connector on the end, and the way it mounts to the TB, the
> Magnum IAC appears functionally identical to the IAC I have on my GM TB
> (converted to dry from a 454 TBI application).  The "LT" engines' IACs
> appear to be almost entirely identical to the Mopar part, but the wiring
> doesn't seem to be the same.  I'm just wanting to find out if one of the
> coils is responsible for extending the piston, the other for retracting, or
> if they both do the same job...


-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
29:40.237N, 95:28.726W or perhaps 30:55.265N, 95:20.590W
Houston, Texas "The city with too much Oxygen"
rwhughe at oplink.net
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From silvershad0w at netzero.net  Tue Sep  7 22:52:04 2004
From: silvershad0w at netzero.net (silvershad0w at netzero.net)
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 18:52:04 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel Rail Boss ID for small o-ring Inj.
Message-ID: <mailman.61427.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>


Thanks for the info on the specific injector 1370, good to hear they have the GM style connector.  The website I posted not only had the wrong picture, but stated the injectors as high impedance also... I hope they got the flow rate right (550cc at 80%) or else I'll be wasting a couple hundrded bucks on injectors if they are too small.  I haven't been able to find any other source on that particular part # to verify the advertised flow rate.

If you can get back to me with the fuel rail ID, either on or off list that would be great.  Another guy just posted on msefi just a few hours ago asking about the diameter of small o-ring Nissan injectors he bought off ebay, looks like I'm not the only one seeking this info.  I will forward the measurement to him if and when I receive it from you.  I'm sure this will help several people with prototyping/choosing injectors, etc.

Thanks,
John C.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rod Hiorns [mailto:R.E.Hiorns at IEE.org] 
Sent: 06 September, 2004 18:08
To: silvershad0w at netzero.net
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Fuel Rail Boss ID for small o-ring Inj.


Hi John,
The 2010 is the oval connector and high impedance. If you can drive peak and hold injectors use the 1370; it's the square type (like GM) and low-impedance. I have a rail I can measure for the O-ring mating bore. You can find the oval connector on some Mazdas (189/1990 2nd Gen "NC" RX-7, MX-5/Miata). Either of these or a domestic injector can be fitted with O-rings on the manifold side that are not square - it's just a low pressure seal and thermal insulation. HTH Rod



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From hugh at sol.co.uk  Wed Sep  8 13:54:32 2004
From: hugh at sol.co.uk (Hugh Keir)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 09:54:32 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel Line pressure drop calculations
Message-ID: <mailman.61428.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Hi Guy's

I am fitting some new fuel lines to my car on a custom fuel set-up and have
been looking for some simple method of calculating the pressure drop I will
get with different diameters / lengths of pipe at different flow rates.

Does anyone have a link or can post up the right calculations.

Thanks

Hugh

PS good to see there was some real life in the list again, a couple of weeks
ago.

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From cobraman at insightbb.com  Wed Sep  8 19:41:35 2004
From: cobraman at insightbb.com (cobraman at insightbb.com)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 15:41:35 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel Line pressure drop calculations
Message-ID: <mailman.61429.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

No links or calcs, but I used pre-made 3/8 steel tubing w/ male flair ends 
connected to 37 deg. (06 or 08 - don't remember) flair fittings. Get two long 
pieces and cut one end off each, remove the mail fitting and add the female 
pieces. Start from both ends and work towards the middle.  Join the ends w/ 
copper ferrel fitting union. Use 300 psi push on (special) rubber hose for 
vibration connection. No clamps anywhere and 300 psi capability. TomS   


> Hi Guy's
> 
> I am fitting some new fuel lines to my car on a custom fuel set-up and have
> been looking for some simple method of calculating the pressure drop I will
> get with different diameters / lengths of pipe at different flow rates.
> 
> Does anyone have a link or can post up the right calculations.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Hugh
> 
> PS good to see there was some real life in the list again, a couple of weeks
> ago.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> diy_efi mailing list
> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
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From weinstro at hotmail.com  Wed Sep  8 21:03:23 2004
From: weinstro at hotmail.com (Rob Weinstock)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 17:03:23 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel delivery guidance
Message-ID: <mailman.61430.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Hello,

I'm looking for some guidance on fuel rail design.

For a custom setup, I'm wondering about anything special I might have to do 
to control fuel pressure fluctuations due to injector operation, such as 
"oversized" fuel rails, high injection pressures, and/or aftermarket fuel 
pressure dampers.

Any suggestions, guidance, calculations would be most appreciated.

Thanks and regards,

Rob Weinstock


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From tsokorai at xperts.cl  Wed Sep  8 21:19:51 2004
From: tsokorai at xperts.cl (Tomas J. Sokorai Sch.)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 17:19:51 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel delivery guidance
Message-ID: <mailman.61431.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

On Wednesday 08 September 2004 16:46, Rob Weinstock wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I'm looking for some guidance on fuel rail design.
>
> For a custom setup, I'm wondering about anything special I might have to do
> to control fuel pressure fluctuations due to injector operation, such as
> "oversized" fuel rails, high injection pressures, and/or aftermarket fuel
> pressure dampers.

Maybe you could use the dampers found on the old Bosch k/ke-jetronic (CIS or 
CISe). Depending on the version they hold 20 or 40 cm3, and keep a pressure 
of 2.4 or 3 bar.
I guess you can get them easily and very cheap from junkyards.

-- 
Tomas J. Sokorai Sch.
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From rsegriggy at earthlink.net  Wed Sep  8 23:31:52 2004
From: rsegriggy at earthlink.net (Rick Gentile)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 19:31:52 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel filter differences
Message-ID: <mailman.61432.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>


I've got a Howell TBI kit on my CJ (258ci).  It's time for a new fuel filter
for it.  The manual says it uses a Fram PN G3802A.  I just picked up a
filter for my Bronco (5.8L motor).  It's a Fram PN G3850.  What would be the
difference between them?  Does one flow better?  Is there any way to tell
from teh part number?  I figure if it flows enough for hte 5.8, then there
should be plenty for the 4.2.

Thanks
Rick

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From donsauman at cythera.net  Thu Sep  9 02:24:52 2004
From: donsauman at cythera.net (Don Sauman)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 22:24:52 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel delivery guidance
Message-ID: <mailman.61433.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Is this the same as the fuel accumulator used on late 70s/early 80s 200 
series Volvos?

Don

Tomas J. Sokorai Sch. wrote:

>On Wednesday 08 September 2004 16:46, Rob Weinstock wrote:
>  
>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I'm looking for some guidance on fuel rail design.
>>
>>For a custom setup, I'm wondering about anything special I might have to do
>>to control fuel pressure fluctuations due to injector operation, such as
>>"oversized" fuel rails, high injection pressures, and/or aftermarket fuel
>>pressure dampers.
>>    
>>
>
>Maybe you could use the dampers found on the old Bosch k/ke-jetronic (CIS or 
>CISe). Depending on the version they hold 20 or 40 cm3, and keep a pressure 
>of 2.4 or 3 bar.
>I guess you can get them easily and very cheap from junkyards.
>
>  
>


-- 
Don Sauman
Mob: 0413 746 695
Ph:  +61 8 9361 0337
Fax: +61 8 9361 0581
Email: donsauman at cythera.net




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From quiktrp at cbcast.com  Thu Sep  9 03:10:37 2004
From: quiktrp at cbcast.com (Matthew Bormet)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 23:10:37 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel Line pressure drop calculations
Message-ID: <mailman.61434.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Where'd you get that 300psi rubber line?  I wouldnt mind using that instead 
of what I'm using now.

Thanks,
Matt

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cobraman at insightbb.com>
To: "A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] Fuel Line pressure drop calculations


> No links or calcs, but I used pre-made 3/8 steel tubing w/ male flair ends
> connected to 37 deg. (06 or 08 - don't remember) flair fittings. Get two 
> long
> pieces and cut one end off each, remove the mail fitting and add the 
> female
> pieces. Start from both ends and work towards the middle.  Join the ends 
> w/
> copper ferrel fitting union. Use 300 psi push on (special) rubber hose for
> vibration connection. No clamps anywhere and 300 psi capability. TomS
>
>
>> Hi Guy's
>>
>> I am fitting some new fuel lines to my car on a custom fuel set-up and 
>> have
>> been looking for some simple method of calculating the pressure drop I 
>> will
>> get with different diameters / lengths of pipe at different flow rates.
>>
>> Does anyone have a link or can post up the right calculations.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Hugh
>>
>> PS good to see there was some real life in the list again, a couple of 
>> weeks
>> ago.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> diy_efi mailing list
>> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> _______________________________________________
> diy_efi mailing list
> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> ---
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>


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From tsokorai at xperts.cl  Thu Sep  9 03:16:37 2004
From: tsokorai at xperts.cl (Tomas J. Sokorai Sch.)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 23:16:37 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel delivery guidance
Message-ID: <mailman.61435.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

On Thursday 09 September 2004 02:12, Don Sauman wrote:
>  same as the fuel accumulator used on late 70s/early 80s 200
> series Volvos?

Yes, that's it!... and "fuel accumulator" was the precise term for the 
"damper" I was referring to.

Volvos, Audis, VWs, BMWs, Porsches, MBs, even Peugeots used on the early 80s 
the k-jetronic mechanical injection system on some of their model lines.

-- 
Tomas J. Sokorai Sch.
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From CobraMan at insightbb.com  Thu Sep  9 03:59:38 2004
From: CobraMan at insightbb.com (CobraMan)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 23:59:38 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel Line pressure drop calculations
Message-ID: <mailman.61436.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

summit, Jegs, speedway, anywhere that has the push-lock fittings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Bormet" <quiktrp at cbcast.com>
To: "A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] Fuel Line pressure drop calculations


> Where'd you get that 300psi rubber line?  I wouldnt mind using that
instead
> of what I'm using now.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <cobraman at insightbb.com>
> To: "A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 2:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] Fuel Line pressure drop calculations
>
>
> > No links or calcs, but I used pre-made 3/8 steel tubing w/ male flair
ends
> > connected to 37 deg. (06 or 08 - don't remember) flair fittings. Get two
> > long
> > pieces and cut one end off each, remove the mail fitting and add the
> > female
> > pieces. Start from both ends and work towards the middle.  Join the ends
> > w/
> > copper ferrel fitting union. Use 300 psi push on (special) rubber hose
for
> > vibration connection. No clamps anywhere and 300 psi capability. TomS
> >
> >
> >> Hi Guy's
> >>
> >> I am fitting some new fuel lines to my car on a custom fuel set-up and
> >> have
> >> been looking for some simple method of calculating the pressure drop I
> >> will
> >> get with different diameters / lengths of pipe at different flow rates.
> >>
> >> Does anyone have a link or can post up the right calculations.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> Hugh
> >>
> >> PS good to see there was some real life in the list again, a couple of
> >> weeks
> >> ago.
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> diy_efi mailing list
> >> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > _______________________________________________
> > diy_efi mailing list
> > diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
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> >
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From pas94 at phat.co.nz  Thu Sep  9 04:59:02 2004
From: pas94 at phat.co.nz (Paul Shaw)
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 00:59:02 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Re: diy_efi Digest, Vol 12, Issue 5
Message-ID: <mailman.61437.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

The id in the fuel rail is 10.4 mm


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Today's Topics:

   1. RE: Fuel Rail Boss ID for small o-ring Inj.
      (silvershad0w at netzero.net)
   2. Fuel Line pressure drop calculations (Hugh Keir)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 22:37:31 GMT
From: "silvershad0w at netzero.net" <silvershad0w at netzero.net>
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Fuel Rail Boss ID for small o-ring Inj.
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Message-ID: <20040907.153738.12675.568634 at webmail13.nyc.untd.com>
Content-Type: text/plain


Thanks for the info on the specific injector 1370, good to hear they have the GM style connector.  The website I posted not only had the wrong picture, but stated the injectors as high impedance also... I hope they got the flow rate right (550cc at 80%) or else I'll be wasting a couple hundrded bucks on injectors if they are too small.  I haven't been able to find any other source on that particular part # to verify the advertised flow rate.

If you can get back to me with the fuel rail ID, either on or off list that would be great.  Another guy just posted on msefi just a few hours ago asking about the diameter of small o-ring Nissan injectors he bought off ebay, looks like I'm not the only one seeking this info.  I will forward the measurement to him if and when I receive it from you.  I'm sure this will help several people with prototyping/choosing injectors, etc.

Thanks,
John C.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rod Hiorns [mailto:R.E.Hiorns at IEE.org] 
Sent: 06 September, 2004 18:08
To: silvershad0w at netzero.net
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Fuel Rail Boss ID for small o-ring Inj.


Hi John,
The 2010 is the oval connector and high impedance. If you can drive peak and hold injectors use the 1370; it's the square type (like GM) and low-impedance. I have a rail I can measure for the O-ring mating bore. You can find the oval connector on some Mazdas (189/1990 2nd Gen "NC" RX-7, MX-5/Miata). Either of these or a domestic injector can be fitted with O-rings on the manifold side that are not square - it's just a low pressure seal and thermal insulation. HTH Rod




------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 14:31:42 +0100
From: "Hugh Keir" <hugh at sol.co.uk>
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel Line pressure drop calculations
To: "A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Message-ID: <00ee01c495a9$70eb58a0$98ebb094 at hugh>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="Windows-1252"

Hi Guy's

I am fitting some new fuel lines to my car on a custom fuel set-up and have
been looking for some simple method of calculating the pressure drop I will
get with different diameters / lengths of pipe at different flow rates.

Does anyone have a link or can post up the right calculations.

Thanks

Hugh

PS good to see there was some real life in the list again, a couple of weeks
ago.


------------------------------

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End of diy_efi Digest, Vol 12, Issue 5
**************************************


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From krw at efn.org  Thu Sep  9 15:22:50 2004
From: krw at efn.org (Karl Walter)
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 11:22:50 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61438.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Hello,

I am planning to swap a 1997 Vortec 5.7 with a obdII 16229684 Computer
into an old Suburban.  I'm looking for possible ways to get around the
Evap system OBD II tests in the drive cycle.  Here is what I have so far:

install a evap pump.  I'd rather not.

Reprogram the ECU, This would be no problem if it was a '747, but I have
no experiance with the newer ecu's

Get a '94 ECU.  Will it plug in?  how much wiring changes? cost?

Swap the whole thing to a '730 ecu.  Anybody run a vortec system with the
old ecu?

Also, what other drive cycle tests that will throw a code am I forgetting
besides Catalyst o2 sensors, EVAP, and ?
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From Steve.Ravet at arm.com  Thu Sep  9 21:26:04 2004
From: Steve.Ravet at arm.com (Steve Ravet)
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 17:26:04 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61439.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org=20
> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Karl Walter
> Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 10:10 AM
> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
>=20
> Hello,
>=20
> I am planning to swap a 1997 Vortec 5.7 with a obdII 16229684=20
> Computer into an old Suburban.  I'm looking for possible ways=20
> to get around the Evap system OBD II tests in the drive=20
> cycle.  Here is what I have so far:

Why don't you keep the evap system intact?  I'm putting a '98 vortec =
into my old Monte Carlo and that's the plan so far.  There's a pressure =
sensor on the gas tank that you'll need, plus the lines and cannister =
itself.

> Swap the whole thing to a '730 ecu.  Anybody run a vortec=20
> system with the old ecu?

Ward Spoonmore had some notes on running a vortec with an older computer =
in the archives.

What kind of transmission did the donor have, and what are you using?

--steve

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From Steve.Ravet at arm.com  Thu Sep  9 21:37:58 2004
From: Steve.Ravet at arm.com (Steve Ravet)
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 17:37:58 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?
Message-ID: <mailman.61440.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org=20
> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Garrett P.=20
> Beauregard
> Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 4:25 PM
> To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?
>=20
> Dan,
>=20
>=20
> Thanks for the response. Here's my problem: the new engine is=20
> controlled entirely by a Motec box but the original EEC still=20
> has most of its original inputs (MAF, crank and cam sensors,=20
> cylinder head temp, oil pressure, etc.).
> The engine runs fine and the dashboard gauges and controls=20
> are doing their thing. BUT, the A/C compressor won't come on=20
> with the selector on A/C or Max A/C. I've jumpered the clutch=20
> relay and it works and the air blows cold, so the system is=20
> working. We cleared out all the DTCs and the A/C came on but=20
> only for a minute or so before one of the DTCs popped up and=20
> the system shut off.

I don't know about the Ford, but on GMs the computer has an "AC request" =
input, and an "AC enable" output.  The request signal comes from the AC =
controls, and the enable goes to the compressor clutch, if the computer =
decides to let you have AC.  I'd say take the EEC out of the loop and =
use the controls to switch the clutch directly.  You'll probably want to =
use a relay, and make sure you understand the polarities of the request =
and enable signals.

--steve


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From jcreech1 at olemac.net  Thu Sep  9 21:40:11 2004
From: jcreech1 at olemac.net (J Creech)
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 17:40:11 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61441.1369893830.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

>> I am planning to swap a 1997 Vortec 5.7 with a obdII 16229684
>> Computer into an old Suburban.  I'm looking for possible ways
>> to get around the Evap system OBD II tests in the drive
>> cycle.  Here is what I have so far:

>Why don't you keep the evap system intact?  I'm putting a '98 vortec into my old Monte Carlo and
that's the plan >so far.  There's a pressure sensor on the gas tank that you'll need, plus the lines
and cannister itself.

>--steve

My thinking exactly. Evap canisters don't do anything but keep the air you breathe cleaner. It
removes the "downtime" emissions - the pollution your car emits while just sitting in your driveway.
Doesn't weigh all that much, can be mounted darn near anyplace, and takes absolutely NOTHING away
from the output of the engine.

-Scott C.


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From donsauman at cythera.net  Fri Sep 10 01:33:54 2004
From: donsauman at cythera.net (Don Sauman)
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 21:33:54 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel delivery guidance
Message-ID: <mailman.61442.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Thomas,

It was my understanding that the purpose of the accumulator, as it was 
directly above the HP fuel pump, was to keep a head of fuel available. 
Sort of like a primative surge tank. Have I got it wrong?

Don

Tomas J. Sokorai Sch. wrote:

>On Thursday 09 September 2004 02:12, Don Sauman wrote:
>  
>
>> same as the fuel accumulator used on late 70s/early 80s 200
>>series Volvos?
>>    
>>
>
>Yes, that's it!... and "fuel accumulator" was the precise term for the 
>"damper" I was referring to.
>
>Volvos, Audis, VWs, BMWs, Porsches, MBs, even Peugeots used on the early 80s 
>the k-jetronic mechanical injection system on some of their model lines.
>
>  
>


-- 
Don Sauman
Mob: 0413 746 695
Ph:  +61 8 9361 0337
Fax: +61 8 9361 0581
Email: donsauman at cythera.net




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From gpbeau at cox.net  Fri Sep 10 02:51:51 2004
From: gpbeau at cox.net (Garrett P. Beauregard)
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 22:51:51 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?
Message-ID: <mailman.61443.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

That's what I ended up doing. Dug through the Ford schematics, found the
request wire and brought that signal to the Motec. Then found the line from
the EEC that switches the clutch relay on and ran that to the Motec. A
little parameter setting and voila, the AC works. Just a PITA.

Garrett

-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Steve Ravet
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 2:25 PM
To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?


> -----Original Message-----
> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Garrett P.
> Beauregard
> Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 4:25 PM
> To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Ford EEC?
>
> Dan,
>
>
> Thanks for the response. Here's my problem: the new engine is
> controlled entirely by a Motec box but the original EEC still
> has most of its original inputs (MAF, crank and cam sensors,
> cylinder head temp, oil pressure, etc.).
> The engine runs fine and the dashboard gauges and controls
> are doing their thing. BUT, the A/C compressor won't come on
> with the selector on A/C or Max A/C. I've jumpered the clutch
> relay and it works and the air blows cold, so the system is
> working. We cleared out all the DTCs and the A/C came on but
> only for a minute or so before one of the DTCs popped up and
> the system shut off.

I don't know about the Ford, but on GMs the computer has an "AC request"
input, and an "AC enable" output.  The request signal comes from the AC
controls, and the enable goes to the compressor clutch, if the computer
decides to let you have AC.  I'd say take the EEC out of the loop and use
the controls to switch the clutch directly.  You'll probably want to use a
relay, and make sure you understand the polarities of the request and enable
signals.

--steve


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From tsokorai at xperts.cl  Fri Sep 10 04:31:19 2004
From: tsokorai at xperts.cl (Tomas J. Sokorai Sch.)
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 00:31:19 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Fuel delivery guidance
Message-ID: <mailman.61444.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

On Friday 10 September 2004 01:07, Don Sauman wrote:
> Thomas,
>
> It was my understanding that the purpose of the accumulator, as it was
> directly above the HP fuel pump, was to keep a head of fuel available.
> Sort of like a primative surge tank. Have I got it wrong?

Nope, it was for keeping the pressure in the system after the pump was shut=
=20
off, to keep the gas from vaporizing in the system when hot, and to dampen=
=20
the pump "noise".

In short: pretty nice addon for a homebrew EFI system :)

=46rom the KE-Jetronic Bosch manual in German:

Der Kraftstoffspeicher h=C3=A4lt nach dem Abstellen des Motors f=C3=BCr ein=
e gewisse=20
Zeit den Druck im Kraftstoffversorgungssystem, um das erneute Starten,=20
besonders des heissen Motors, zu erleichtern. Die besondere Bauweise (Bild =
5)=20
des Speichergeh=C3=A4uses wirkt d=C3=A4mpfend auf das Kraftstoffpumpenger=
=C3=A4usch.

>
> Don
>
> Tomas J. Sokorai Sch. wrote:
> >On Thursday 09 September 2004 02:12, Don Sauman wrote:
> >> same as the fuel accumulator used on late 70s/early 80s 200
> >>series Volvos?
> >
> >Yes, that's it!... and "fuel accumulator" was the precise term for the
> >"damper" I was referring to.
> >
> >Volvos, Audis, VWs, BMWs, Porsches, MBs, even Peugeots used on the early
> > 80s the k-jetronic mechanical injection system on some of their model
> > lines.

=2D-=20
Tomas J. Sokorai Sch.
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From krw at efn.org  Fri Sep 10 05:44:03 2004
From: krw at efn.org (Karl Walter)
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 01:44:03 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61445.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

I have nothing but the engine with the wiring harness and computer piled on
top.  The transmission is a turbo 350.  The problem for me is getting the
other parts.  Several runs to the wrecking yard might yeild what I need, but
with my luck it will take a lot of work and re-work to get the evap system
working reliably,  It's not so much that I'm into polluting.


I looked in all the recent archives, but didn't see Ward Spoonmore's posts.
I am on 28.8 dial up, so going through the old archives will take a while...

----- Original Message -----
Ward Spoonmore had some notes on running a vortec with an older computer in
the archives.

What kind of transmission did the donor have, and what are you using?

--steve

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From Steve.Ravet at arm.com  Fri Sep 10 14:15:43 2004
From: Steve.Ravet at arm.com (Steve Ravet)
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 10:15:43 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61446.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

=20

> -----Original Message-----
> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org=20
> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Karl Walter
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 12:34 AM
> To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
> Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
>=20
> I have nothing but the engine with the wiring harness and=20
> computer piled on top.  The transmission is a turbo 350.  The=20
> problem for me is getting the other parts.  Several runs to=20
> the wrecking yard might yeild what I need, but with my luck=20
> it will take a lot of work and re-work to get the evap system=20
> working reliably,  It's not so much that I'm into polluting.

If the donor had an automatic transmission then it was a computer =
controlled 4L60E, and the computer is going to be confused when it =
doesn't see a transmission there. Do you know what the donor had?

It may be easiest to use a 730 computer for your swap.  I've been trying =
to locate Ward's thread also but haven't found it yet.

--steve


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From don.broadus at exeloncorp.com  Fri Sep 10 15:02:20 2004
From: don.broadus at exeloncorp.com (don.broadus at exeloncorp.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 11:02:20 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 7730  Memcal
Message-ID: <mailman.61447.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>


Hello: Does anyone have a  7730  5.0L  V8 Memcal for sale or trade.
I'm working on a TPI setup for a 1953  276 cube Desoto Hemi.
Thanks  Don    


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From krw at efn.org  Fri Sep 10 17:42:37 2004
From: krw at efn.org (Karl Walter)
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 13:42:37 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61448.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Yes, it had a 4l60e transmission, and it may be confused.  I found a guy
here who has an old toyota pickup with a 4.3 v6 vortec from an astro van,
1997, and he just left everything off, no vss, no trans connections, no
downstream o2 sensors, no cannister, no evap pump, just the bare basics for
the engine to run.  His solution: no mil light.  It actually runs pretty
good, but I don't know if it is in limp mode or not. I may talk him into
bringing it so I can put it on the OBDII scanner and see if it's in closed
loop.  I guss it would be a possibility to do my swap that way, and keep one
of those $50.00 scanners in the glove box, if it starts running wierd.

If I use a '7730 computer, It would be a lot nicer, and have the advantage
of being able to easily recalibrate the chip.  I already have a 7730 with a
zif socket I use for the initial tuning.

--Karl


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Ravet" <Steve.Ravet at arm.com>
To: "A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 7:02 AM
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap



If the donor had an automatic transmission then it was a computer controlled
4L60E, and the computer is going to be confused when it doesn't see a
transmission there. Do you know what the donor had?

It may be easiest to use a 730 computer for your swap.  I've been trying to
locate Ward's thread also but haven't found it yet.

--steve


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From sc7500 at sonic.net  Fri Sep 10 23:22:52 2004
From: sc7500 at sonic.net (sc7500)
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 19:22:52 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61449.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

 > If the donor had an automatic transmission then it was a computer
 > controlled 4L60E, and the computer is going to be confused when it
 > doesn't see a transmission there. Do you know what the donor had?

Brings me to an off the subject but interesting question for eventual 
referral...

Do any of you have a clue as to what computer can be used to allow a 
4L60E or 4L80E transmission work in a non computerized vehicle ?

I know that JET has a standalone box for this use... but a wrecking yard 
purchase has GOT to be cheaper in the long run... no ?

Thanks - have a safe weekend
-- 
Bruce T. Corneto
[The Mad Coater]
Occidental, CA


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From quiktrp at cbcast.com  Sat Sep 11 06:09:51 2004
From: quiktrp at cbcast.com (Matthew Bormet)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 02:09:51 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61450.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Don't know the broadcast code, but I know people have used the lt1 ECM for 
this.

If you try doing a search over on thirdgen.org you should come up with some 
nuggets.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "sc7500" <sc7500 at sonic.net>
To: "A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap


> > If the donor had an automatic transmission then it was a computer
> > controlled 4L60E, and the computer is going to be confused when it
> > doesn't see a transmission there. Do you know what the donor had?
>
> Brings me to an off the subject but interesting question for eventual 
> referral...
>
> Do any of you have a clue as to what computer can be used to allow a 4L60E 
> or 4L80E transmission work in a non computerized vehicle ?
>
> I know that JET has a standalone box for this use... but a wrecking yard 
> purchase has GOT to be cheaper in the long run... no ?
>
> Thanks - have a safe weekend
> -- 
> Bruce T. Corneto
> [The Mad Coater]
> Occidental, CA
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
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From jcreech1 at olemac.net  Sat Sep 11 07:01:05 2004
From: jcreech1 at olemac.net (J Creech)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 03:01:05 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61451.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

> I have nothing but the engine with the wiring harness and computer piled on
> top.  The transmission is a turbo 350.  The problem for me is getting the
> other parts.  Several runs to the wrecking yard might yeild what I need, but
> with my luck it will take a lot of work and re-work to get the evap system
> working reliably,  It's not so much that I'm into polluting.

Oh, sorry. My Bad. The way I was reading it, I thought you were just gonna rip out the evap and try
to program around it. Yes, trying to "build from scratch" emissions control systems is probably a
bit of a pain.

-Scott C.


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From krw at efn.org  Sat Sep 11 14:35:14 2004
From: krw at efn.org (Karl Walter)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 10:35:14 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61452.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

I found a source for an "offraod" programmed ECM, i.e. no emissions, from
SpeedScene http://www.speedscenewiring.com/programming_vtec.htm

Maybe this would end up being he easiest and least expensive way to go.

Yes, I know better than to start an OBD II swap with out having the entire
doner vehicle on hand, but this was an abandoned project, and the price
was right.



>> I have nothing but the engine with the wiring harness and computer piled
>> on
>> top.  The transmission is a turbo 350.  The problem for me is getting
>> the
>> other parts.  Several runs to the wrecking yard might yeild what I need,
>> but
>> with my luck it will take a lot of work and re-work to get the evap
>> system
>> working reliably,  It's not so much that I'm into polluting.
>
> Oh, sorry. My Bad. The way I was reading it, I thought you were just gonna
> rip out the evap and try
> to program around it. Yes, trying to "build from scratch" emissions
> control systems is probably a
> bit of a pain.
>
> -Scott C.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> diy_efi mailing list
> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>

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From michaelmccoy at racersmarket.net  Sat Sep 11 22:54:52 2004
From: michaelmccoy at racersmarket.net (Michael McCoy)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 18:54:52 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Motronic Tables
Message-ID: <mailman.61453.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

In the archives (December 1998) I found a reference to a free tool to help
find tables in a motronic bin. "It does not help you to find tables on most
ECUs except for Bosch Motronic where a free software is included to help to
find tables." Does anyone know which free software this might be? Or of any
other software or data that would assist me in finding the tables on a
Motronic 3.3.1 ECU? 

Thanks

-Michael McCoy

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From Steve.Ravet at arm.com  Sun Sep 12 03:44:26 2004
From: Steve.Ravet at arm.com (Steve Ravet)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 23:44:26 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61454.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

> Do any of you have a clue as to what computer can be used to=20
> allow a 4L60E or 4L80E transmission work in a non=20
> computerized vehicle ?

non computerized diesel trucks have a transmission only box in them.  =
The shift points will be wrong for a gas engine though.

--steve


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From donsauman at cythera.net  Sun Sep 12 12:46:00 2004
From: donsauman at cythera.net (Don Sauman)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 08:46:00 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61455.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Hi Steve,
Can't the shift points be reprogrammed?
Don

Steve Ravet wrote:

>>Do any of you have a clue as to what computer can be used to 
>>allow a 4L60E or 4L80E transmission work in a non 
>>computerized vehicle ?
>>    
>>
>
>non computerized diesel trucks have a transmission only box in them.  The shift points will be wrong for a gas engine though.
>
>--steve
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>diy_efi mailing list
>diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>
>
>  
>


-- 
Don Sauman
Mob: 0413 746 695
Ph:  +61 8 9361 0337
Fax: +61 8 9361 0581
Email: donsauman at cythera.net




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From Steve.Ravet at arm.com  Sun Sep 12 23:40:39 2004
From: Steve.Ravet at arm.com (Steve Ravet)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 19:40:39 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
Message-ID: <mailman.61456.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Sure, but you'd have to find an editor.  I don't know offhand if =
tunercat or anyone else supports it.

--steve
=20

> -----Original Message-----
> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org=20
> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Don Sauman
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 7:34 AM
> To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
> Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
>=20
> Hi Steve,
> Can't the shift points be reprogrammed?
> Don
>=20
> Steve Ravet wrote:
>=20
> >>Do any of you have a clue as to what computer can be used=20
> to allow a=20
> >>4L60E or 4L80E transmission work in a non computerized vehicle ?
> >>   =20
> >>
> >
> >non computerized diesel trucks have a transmission only box=20
> in them.  The shift points will be wrong for a gas engine though.
> >
> >--steve
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >diy_efi mailing list
> >diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
> >
> > =20
> >
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> Don Sauman
> Mob: 0413 746 695
> Ph:  +61 8 9361 0337
> Fax: +61 8 9361 0581
> Email: donsauman at cythera.net
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> diy_efi mailing list
> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>=20
>=20
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From diy-efi at t-n-e.com  Mon Sep 13 03:46:51 2004
From: diy-efi at t-n-e.com (Phil Hunter)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 23:46:51 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] electronic nose
Message-ID: <mailman.61457.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

I'll start w/ a disclaimer that my place of underemployment advertises in
the magazine below, other than that, no associations w/ this post.

Figaro makes a variety of sensors to detect various chemicals and gases.
Some are highly selective, responding only to certain gases and ignoring
most everything else, others are more general in what they detect. They
have sensors for gasoline & diesel exhaust, carbon monoxide, R-12 & R-134a,
combustible gases such as propane & hydrogen, and many others:
http://www.figarosensors.com/gaslist.html 
Prices range from about $15 to $57 USD.

The Sept. '04 issue of Nuts & Volts magazine has an article on building an
"electronic nose" using a Figaro sensor. Basically the sensor is configured
as one leg in a Wheatstone Bridge, and a PIC microcontroller is used
to measure the Bridge's imbalance and drive a speaker to give an audible
indication of gas concentration. The schematic is in the article, but
unfortunately the parts list was left out, it can be downloaded here:
http://www.nutsvolts.com/toc_Pages/TOC_Related_Info/sep04_sniffer.htm
Back issues of the magazine can be purchased.

The author cleverly laid out the PCB in a round disk the size of a MagLite
flashlight lens. A 4 D-size cell model of the flashlight provides the
case and power supply. No permanent modifications are made to the MagLite
so it can be reverted back to a flashlight. The author has made the PCB
and programmed uC available, sensors are available from Figaro, and the
rest of the electronic components are from DigiKey & Radio Shack. Smoldering
it all together is done by you.

rgds,
philh

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From quiktrp at cbcast.com  Mon Sep 13 04:06:27 2004
From: quiktrp at cbcast.com (Matthew Bormet)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 00:06:27 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] electronic nose
Message-ID: <mailman.61458.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Here's the correct link for ya: http://www.figarosensor.com/gaslist.html

Any idea how well this would work in an automotive tuning application?

Matt

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Phil Hunter" <diy-efi at t-n-e.com>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 10:34 PM
Subject: [Diy_efi] electronic nose


> I'll start w/ a disclaimer that my place of underemployment advertises in
> the magazine below, other than that, no associations w/ this post.
>
> Figaro makes a variety of sensors to detect various chemicals and gases.
> Some are highly selective, responding only to certain gases and ignoring
> most everything else, others are more general in what they detect. They
> have sensors for gasoline & diesel exhaust, carbon monoxide, R-12 & 
> R-134a,
> combustible gases such as propane & hydrogen, and many others:
> http://www.figarosensors.com/gaslist.html
> Prices range from about $15 to $57 USD.
>
> The Sept. '04 issue of Nuts & Volts magazine has an article on building an
> "electronic nose" using a Figaro sensor. Basically the sensor is 
> configured
> as one leg in a Wheatstone Bridge, and a PIC microcontroller is used
> to measure the Bridge's imbalance and drive a speaker to give an audible
> indication of gas concentration. The schematic is in the article, but
> unfortunately the parts list was left out, it can be downloaded here:
> http://www.nutsvolts.com/toc_Pages/TOC_Related_Info/sep04_sniffer.htm
> Back issues of the magazine can be purchased.
>
> The author cleverly laid out the PCB in a round disk the size of a MagLite
> flashlight lens. A 4 D-size cell model of the flashlight provides the
> case and power supply. No permanent modifications are made to the MagLite
> so it can be reverted back to a flashlight. The author has made the PCB
> and programmed uC available, sensors are available from Figaro, and the
> rest of the electronic components are from DigiKey & Radio Shack. 
> Smoldering
> it all together is done by you.
>
> rgds,
> philh
>
> _______________________________________________
> diy_efi mailing list
> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude]
>
>


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From diy-efi at t-n-e.com  Wed Sep 15 16:22:47 2004
From: diy-efi at t-n-e.com (Phil Hunter)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 12:22:47 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] electronic nose
Message-ID: <mailman.61459.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

> Here's the correct link for ya: http://www.figarosensor.com/gaslist.html

Oops. Thanks.

> Any idea how well this would work in an automotive tuning application?

The article makes a point of it's circuit being qualitative rather than
quantitative, i.e., it could detect in your breath whether you've been
drinking, but not whether your blood alcohol was over the legal limit.

It also mentions the sensors are affected by temperature and humidity, and
the output is logarithmic, so you'd have quite a challenge calibrating
things, but it still might be quasi-useful in giving you a trending
indication, such as NOx reached a minimum and is now increasing again. 
The gasoline & diesel exhaust sensor is actually dual sensors in one package,
the diesel side sensitive to NOx.

rgds,
philh
(digest)

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From sc7500 at sonic.net  Sun Sep 19 01:29:58 2004
From: sc7500 at sonic.net (sc7500)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 21:29:58 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 4L80E controller
Message-ID: <mailman.61460.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Hey;

Did some digging, found a wealth of info here:

http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com

Better online info than JET by far.

Now - if one of our more talented members can figure out a way to build 
one of these at home and share with us...

BTC

########################################

> Sure, but you'd have to find an editor.  I don't know offhand if tunercat or anyone else supports it.
> --steve
>>From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org 
>>[mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Don Sauman
>>Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 7:34 AM
>>To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
>>Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
>>
>>Hi Steve,
>>Can't the shift points be reprogrammed?
>>Don
######################################
>>>>Do any of you have a clue as to what computer can be used 
>>to allow a 4L60E or 4L80E transmission work in a non computerized vehicle ?

>>>non computerized diesel trucks have a transmission only box 
>>in them.  The shift points will be wrong for a gas engine though.


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From donsauman at cythera.net  Sun Sep 19 03:01:28 2004
From: donsauman at cythera.net (Don Sauman)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 23:01:28 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 4L80E controller
Message-ID: <mailman.61461.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

Thank you for that. You just solved a heap of problems for me. This 
seams to be the way I will go for my AMC 360(371) c/w '7747 TBI => 
4L80-E => NP208 => D44 in 1983 Jeep Wagon.

Cheers
Don

sc7500 wrote:

> Hey;
>
> Did some digging, found a wealth of info here:
>
> http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com
>
> Better online info than JET by far.
>
> Now - if one of our more talented members can figure out a way to 
> build one of these at home and share with us...
>
> BTC
>
> ########################################
>
>> Sure, but you'd have to find an editor.  I don't know offhand if 
>> tunercat or anyone else supports it.
>> --steve
>>
>>> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org 
>>> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Don Sauman
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 7:34 AM
>>> To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
>>> Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
>>>
>>> Hi Steve,
>>> Can't the shift points be reprogrammed?
>>> Don
>>
> ######################################
>
>>>>> Do any of you have a clue as to what computer can be used 
>>>>
>>> to allow a 4L60E or 4L80E transmission work in a non computerized 
>>> vehicle ?
>>
>
>>>> non computerized diesel trucks have a transmission only box 
>>>
>>> in them.  The shift points will be wrong for a gas engine though.
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> diy_efi mailing list
> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>
>


-- 
"An ageing society develops elaborate defences against new ideas." -- Clarke

Don Sauman
Mob: 0413 746 695
Ph:  +61 8 9361 0337
Fax: +61 8 9361 0581
Email: donsauman at cythera.net
http://Cythera.com
http://www.CameraArtStudio.com





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From mxk0840 at rit.edu  Sun Sep 19 05:36:16 2004
From: mxk0840 at rit.edu (Milosz Kardasinski)
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 01:36:16 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] 4L80E controller
Message-ID: <mailman.61462.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

There is a project going on at www.no-bling.com to build a controller for
the 4L60E. Not exactly the 80 but I would imagine that they are similar in
operation.

M.

-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of sc7500
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 8:57 PM
To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
Subject: [Diy_efi] 4L80E controller


Hey;

Did some digging, found a wealth of info here:

http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com

Better online info than JET by far.

Now - if one of our more talented members can figure out a way to build
one of these at home and share with us...

BTC

########################################

> Sure, but you'd have to find an editor.  I don't know offhand if tunercat
or anyone else supports it.
> --steve
>>From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
>>[mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Don Sauman
>>Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 7:34 AM
>>To: A list for Do-It-Yourself EFI
>>Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] 96-97 vortec swap
>>
>>Hi Steve,
>>Can't the shift points be reprogrammed?
>>Don
######################################
>>>>Do any of you have a clue as to what computer can be used
>>to allow a 4L60E or 4L80E transmission work in a non computerized vehicle
?

>>>non computerized diesel trucks have a transmission only box
>>in them.  The shift points will be wrong for a gas engine though.


_______________________________________________
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diy_efi at diy-efi.org
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From alexis.pavlov at st.com  Mon Sep 20 09:48:36 2004
From: alexis.pavlov at st.com (Alexis PAVLOV)
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 05:48:36 -0400
Subject: [Diy_efi] Motronic Tables
Message-ID: <mailman.61463.1369893831.12387.diy_efi@diy-efi.org>

May be it's about distrial, a porsche Motronic related software ?
May be I could help you ? What is the CPU ?

Michael McCoy wrote:
> 
> In the archives (December 1998) I found a reference to a free tool to help
> find tables in a motronic bin. "It does not help you to find tables on most
> ECUs except for Bosch Motronic where a free software is included to help to
> find tables." Does anyone know which free software this might be? Or of any
> other software or data that would assist me in finding the tables on a
> Motronic 3.3.1 ECU?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -Michael McCoy
> 
> _______________________________________________
> diy_efi mailing list
> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
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