[Diy_efi] info

[Mike]

At 05:13 AM 10/31/05, you wrote:
>Actually,  they call water the 'universal solvent' for a reason.  I'd start
>there,  and if it appears there is some residue the water can't get I might
>try more agressive solvents.

mmmm, not really - Water is a fairly good ionic solvent but suffers
from the H to OH equilibria, in that its neutrality is probabilisitc,
when it gets to actually dissolve anything and is either acidic or caustic
as a consequence and has repercussions on that basis. Vis a vis
using water as engine coolant where electrolytic damage is so prevalent,
the H to OH equilibrium seems to win out regardless of what chemicals
are added. That green inhibitor needs frequent changing, what I've
settled on is a tannin type pill which coats the alloy with a protective
layer and seems to work effectively for long periods. The only downside
is a little brown sludge if instructions/amounts not precisely adhered to.

Electronic components are not generally designed for immersion
in water, sure some can tolerate water for cleaning - but for electronics
Isopropanol is more generally accepted as the universal cleaner
and might be interpreted as the universal solvent for pollutants
affecting electronic repair and service. Its also ionic and boards
shouldnt be left in it for long otherwise there electrolytic effects.
The good thing about it is - its so volatile and drys off in a few
mere seconds on some occasions, plenty of ventilation is essential
as it is combustible and although it smells (ok) I wouldnt breath
the stuff at all if I could help it.

Interesting your comment re "aggressive" bringing a human emotive
issue to one of chemical compatibility. What I mean to say is there
are so many products and processes that have only a compatibility
issue not one which is either passive or aggressive
and to use those terms seems discontinuous with solvents. Sure,
the appearance is either one is more or less aggressive than another
but it comes down to a sheer compatibility only in the long run.

Also water is (AFAIK) only ionic whereas Isopropanol is ionic and
covalent in terms of its capacity to dissolve most pollutants which
can affect electronics, the Isopropanol is designed around for that purpose.

Rgds

Mike






>Again,  just mho.
>
>Bill
>
>> From: "Mike" <niche at iinet.net.au>
>> 
>> At 08:31 AM 10/29/05, you wrote:
>>> I'd remove it from the case,  wash down the PCB and case good with clear
>>> clean water,  then blow it with compressed air and let it dry for a few days.
>>> Once I was sure it was complete dry I'd reassemble it and try running it.
>>> What id there to loose?
>> 
>> Best solvent to remove other things is Isopropyl alcohol (Isopropanol),
>> let dry normally - dont use compressed air, there is potential for localised
>> static damage,
>> 
>> Rgds
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> Just MHO :-)
>>> 
>>> Bill
>>> 
>>> From: "Lee M. Lemoine" <llemoine at gmail.com>
>>> 
>>>> John, if antifreeze can damage paint, think about
>>>> what it may do
>>>> to a PCB.
>>>> You could spend a lot of time replacing parts, and
>>>> still have an 
>>>> unreliable
>>>> ECU. Wrecking yard option sounds good. Make sure it
>>>> comes from a
>>>> car
>>>> without a leaky heater core.
>>>> 
>>>> Geoff H
>>> 
>>>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> Regards from
>> 
>> 
>> Mike
>> Perth, Western Australia
>> VL Commodore Fuse Rail that wont warp or melt !
>> Twin tyres for most sedans, trikes and motorcycle sidecars
>> http://niche.iinet.net.au
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Regards from


Mike
Perth, Western Australia
VL Commodore Fuse Rail that wont warp or melt !
Twin tyres for most sedans, trikes and motorcycle sidecars
http://niche.iinet.net.au