[Diy_efi] ever poured a large slab?

[Mike]

Sounds a bit like the PVDC that has been used in the marine industry,
PolyVinylideneChloride however cures at higher temp but is
an extremely good moisture and oxygen barrier also used in
food industry but bit pricey at $80/L. It comes as an aqueous emulsion,
apply it and place under IR lamp so cures at approx 45degC,
now used as non toxic, non flammble copolymer coating for
circuit boards where they are likely to encounter splash such
as in irrigation controls etc,

rgds

mike



At 07:57 AM 7/24/07, you wrote:
>Steve,
>   Is "BONDCRETE" made by the company Sealwell available in the States?
>My father was a builder and almost always added Bondcrete to the mix when he was pouring a slab - I never saw one of his slabs spall, crack or break up.
>When a slab is poured in sections he also painted extra (neat) Bondcrete on the first section at the join face before pouring the second section to help bond the two sections together.
>   As an aside, Bondcrete is also an excellent waterproof timber glue!
>
>Regards
>Bill
>
>>
>>Original Message:
>>-----------------
>>From: J M galaxiecustom500 at yahoo.com
>>Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:50:14 -0700 (PDT)
>>To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>>Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] ever poured a large slab?
>>
>>
>>We just put new epoxy on the floors of the student
>>projects building at Ohio state.  Very nice.  Much
>>easier to clean up the floors/keep dust down when we
>>paint or do carbon fiber work.
>>
>>Jason
>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B04yzmGnvx0
>>
>>--- Steve Ravet <Steve.Ravet at arm.com> wrote:
>>
>>  
>>>I had some spalling on the 10x20 slab I did last
>>>year but didn't use
>>>anything like what you described.  Just screed, 3'
>>>float, then hand
>>>trowel.  What causes the spalling?
>>>    
>>
>>Adding too much (generally ANY) water to the mix before pouring, not enough
>>cement in the mix (never use less than six sack for flat work). Also-- if
>>the slab was poured under hot sunny, or windy conditions--the surface may
>>not have cured decently.
>>  
>>>I think I've decided to do the forms myself and hire
>>>the concrete work.
>>>Or at least to call and get estimates.
>>>
>>>How about epoxy or other floor finishes?  Anyone
>>>used them in a garage?
>>>    
>>
>>THE very best finish is 'Lumi-Plate'. The second best is 'Master-Plate'.
>>Both are dry-cast, trowel in products. (Spread 'em on the surface after
>>screeding, before troweling.)
>>Each will make the surface four to eight times harder than it would
>>otherwise be.
>>
>>Each of these uses steel filings as aggregate, Lumi-Plate uses stainless
>>filings--so , for a wet environment, Lumi-Plate is the way to go. It also
>>gives a much brighter surface, hence the name.
>>
>>A spray-on, membrane forming curing compound ALSO helps the cure/strength a
>>LOT. You can also accomplish this the old fashioned way-- lay burlap over
>>the surface and keep it wet for a week to a month---
>>
>>Apply sealer ('silane' is good) or paint/epoxy as desired. Any surface
>>coating is ONLY as good as the concrete under it !!!
>>
>>A sheet of (6 mil thick) visquene over the gravel under the slab will
>>GREATLY improve the cure and consequently the strength of a slab. Beware--a
>>LOT of finisher will claim otherwise, this is BS. Without the plastic
>>underneath, the gravel pulls a lot of the water out of the concrete,
>>quickly. This is BAD for the cure, but also make it 'go off' much
>>faster--thus letting the finishers get their work done and go home sooner !!
>>
>>Greg
>>
>>
>>  
>>>BTW the final plans include enough space to park 2
>>>cars end to end, with
>>>the furthest back space having a 4 post Eagle lift. Can't wait to have
>>>it all set up :-)
>>>
>>>--steve
>>>
>>>    
>>
>>
>>       
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Regards from


Mike
Perth, Western Australia
VK/VL Commodore Fuse Rail panel that wont warp, twist or melt, guaranteed  !
Twin tyres for most sedans, trikes and motorcycle sidecars
http://niche.iinet.net.au