[Diy_efi] EEC-IV in an MGB

Frank McCracken frankmccracken
Thu Sep 13 02:31:08 UTC 2007


Fyi , a 1947 is a 9n  :-)
I would like to see those pics. How do I find them?
Frank.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: don.broadus at exeloncorp.com
To: <byrdhouse9 at sbcglobal.net>; <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 8:40 AM
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-IV in an MGB


Very cool Project. I found that working with the EEC IV was not  as bad as I
thought it would be.
I helped a guy put a 3.0 L V6 Ford in his 1947 8N tractor. No Vss signal and
it runs great.
I had to make a orifice plate for the IAC to get the idle down for his non
sycro trans. I also made a remote mount heat sink for the TFI module it was
getting to hot on the distributor and
shutting down the engine. Pictures on on the twki site . I think your right
about the injector placement causing problems. Keep us posted and send some
pic's if you can.


-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 3:25 PM
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: [Diy_efi] EEC-IV in an MGB


Hello, I haven' posted anything on this site since Jan 07.  I see some
fantastic knowledge of EFI systems in the folks posting on this site and
wonder if I can beg for some free advice on several points

I transplanted the EEC-IV system, including the distributorless
ignition, from a '92 Ford 1.9 onto my '71 MGB 1.8.  I had to make
several parts, including an intake manifold from scratch, and adapt the
wire harness, etc.  It is quite drivable, except for hesitation when you
hit the throttle, even though I have not touched the program in the ECU.
The fact that the ECU program works as well as it does shows how
adaptable the MAF system is, as discussed in other comments on this
site.  I can see that it is going lean during acceleration by watching
the voltage out of the O2 sensor.  I also manually injected a little
extra gas during acceleration and was able to make the hesitation go
away.

I am not pursuing any great improvement in power, just trying to get the
instant starting, warmup and drive-away performance we all take for
granted in EFI cars.  I like the look and sound of an old British
roadster, and am happy with keeping nostalgic things like solid lifters
that always tick a little, but can do without the issues that come with
35 year old dual carbs, a manual choke, and the Lucas points ignition
system.
This engine has two pairs of siamesed intakes.  Since my EEC is from a
sequential injection engine, I put all 4 injectors together in the
center of the manifold so it is working more like a throttle body
injection system.

Now, my questions.

1. I assume I need to change some parameters in the EEC to tune
this setup properly - my displacement is different by 5%, my manifold
volume is much smaller, my injectors are wetting the manifold instead of
the intake valves, etc.  I see Tweecers and other gadgets advertised on
the web, but it is not too clear what they can do.  Is the Advantage 3.x
that was discussed here a couple of weeks ago the best (cheapest?) way
to see what this EEC is doing and change the settings?
2. There was a discussion of the EEC-V and it is obviously newer
and more capable.  Might it be worth my time (and $) to convert my
system to an EEC-V system off a '96 or later Ford 1.9, and do my tuning
on that?
3. I have all the sensors including the Vehicle Speed Sensor
connected to the harness, so my check-engine light goes off, but I do
not have the VSS connected to the speedo cable.  If I understand
correctly (mainly from the Probst book on Ford EFI), VSS is used for
economy and emissions purposes, like cutting off fuel during
deceleration.  Is there any reason I should build an adapter so it can
see actual vehicle speed?
Thanks in advance for any help.

Jim in Ohio

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