[Gmecm] Olds 307 injection alive

[Christian E. Carson]

I'm using the EST HEI distributor that was original to the car (1990 Olds
Custom Cruiser, 307, the last carbed engine to come from GM). You can find
this distributor on any 307-equipped car from 1981-1990...307 distributors
were all exactly identical (except of course for Canadian non-E-QJet
versions.) Just look for the big 4 prong weatherpack connector coming out of
the dist instead of vacuum advance. I believe it was around 1986-87 when
they started exclusively offering 307s in ALL fullsized wagons including
Caprice, Buick Estate, Pontiac Safari and Custom Cruiser. It's about a 100%
guarantee that if you find a Buick or Olds that you will also find a 307.
HTH!

Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <markus at happyhammer.com>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Olds 307 injection alive


> Chris,
>      I think the Distributor from your 307 is the one I need for injecting
> my 455.  Does it have the Electonic Spark Control?  And what cars
> would I find one of these in (makes my search through wrecking yards
> easier if I know what vehicles to look for.
>
>
>              Markus
> > Well, after several months of parts collecting and engine swapping, I've
> > finally put enough parts together to actually get the 307 in my '90
Custom
> > Cruiser to start and run with the MPFI Seville intake.  But I still have
> > several other dilemmas...
> > I'm using the Moates memcal adapter board with ZIF socket. I tried
putting
> > the PROM into the socket in the orientation the website tells you to
(pin
> > 1
> > facing away from the memcal side) but the ECM will not go into
diagnostic
> > mode or field service mode. When I flip the chip around, it will flash
12
> > with the engine off, so I figure I'm on the right track.  If the code in
> > the
> > PROM is corrupted or if it is installed incorrectly, will the ECM flash
a
> > code or simply not function? This is what it seems to be doing, but I'm
> > boggled as to why it only works in the opposite direction from the
> > "correct"
> > way.
> > Is there a time when the fuel pump relay will not be energized for the 2
> > second period with the key on, like when the PROM is misinstalled? I had
> > to
> > jump the relay to get it to work, but I didn't test for voltage when I
> > flipped the PROM around again.
> >
> > One more question: how close to the fuel tank must an external (Ford
> > truck)
> > fuel pump be plumbed? The fuel tank is rusty and I've got a 92 fullsized
> > wagon tank (with internal fuel pump) to go into it, but I've got to
drive
> > the car about 1/2 mile to my house from my barn (where there is no
> > electricity!) in order to cut the straps and torch the rusty fuel tank
> > bolts
> > out of there!! (after of course removing the fuel tank! :) ) So I'd
rather
> > hook the pump up to "suck" from the existing low pressure lines but I'm
> > wondering how quickly it will kill the pump.  Can I use the mechanical
> > pump
> > to prime the high pressure pump without a surge tank?
> > Thanks much,
> > Chris
> >
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