[Gmecm] Reluctor / rotor phasing

Tracy and June Hooker thooker
Tue Sep 13 04:17:35 UTC 2005


This is a good idea.  I went down to the store and bought one, but they gave
me the wrong one, so I have to exchange it tomorrow.

What should I be looking for?  Should the rotor be exactly alighned with the
#1 plug, and if so, at what advance (0 degrees, 10 degrees, ?)

Thanks,
Tracy 

-----Original Message-----
From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf
Of Darryl M Gilbert
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 1:01 PM
To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Reluctor / rotor phasing

Hello: One thing you might want to try is taking a spare dist cap and
grind a hole in the top by the no#1 plug tower. Make this hole large
enough so you can easily see inside the cap and see the rotor tip to plug
tower relationship. Remove set timing connector and using a light set
timing to 0 deg at idle. Use the same light to look in the dist cap hole
to see rotor phasing. Also at night can easily see rotor to plug tower
phasing and actual spark in dist cap. This works good to see your rotor
tip to plug tower relationship.
good luck
Darryl...
On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 20:49:49 -0600 "hooker" <thooker at nmsu.edu> writes:
> Greetings,
> 
> Thanks for letting me join.  I hope to contribute to the list in a 
> positive
> way. 
> 
> I have a Ford I6 that I installed a GM TBI system on.  It is at 
> about the
> 95% level now, but I am trying to track down a few problems.  Below 
> are two
> most pressing questions:
> 
> One question I have is the relationship between the reluctor wheel 
> and the
> rotor.  In my particular system, when the reluctor is pointing 
> directly at
> the pickup coil, the rotor has passed the actual #1 distributor cap 
> point by
> 10 or 15 degrees.  The rotor plate was fixed by tack welding it 
> while it was
> in the non advanced position (it was a vacuum advance type dist, and 
> when I
> removed the vacuum pot I pushed the plate away from the vacuum 
> motor, then
> tack welded it place).
> 
> I could change this by simply grinding the tack welds and 
> repositioning it.
> Where should I position it?
> 
> Question #2:  In my setup, there are two wires coming from the Ford 
> dist:
> Purple and Orange.  I put an O scope on the wires, and when the 
> reluctor
> tooth is approaching the coil center, the purple wire is the 
> positive one.
> Therefore, I connected the purple wire to the P input of the GM 
> ignition
> module, and the orange wire to the N input.  
> 
> The motor runs pretty well, but when I remove EST connector to time 
> the
> engine, it wont stay running.  I set the timing to 0 degrees (having 
> my wife
> keep the engine running with the gas pedal), then reconnect the EST, 
> and the
> engine perks right up, idles, etc.
> 
> Is this normal?
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> Tracy
> 
>  
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> 
> 
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