[Gmecm] Off topic - rear main seal packing

[Tom]

The rope seals do rob a lot of power as compared to Neoprene. The torque 
needed to turn the crank against that seal isn't quite so bad at full 
speed, once it is worn-in. However, I have heard stories of losing 15+ 
HP with a rope seal on bigger engines...

Dave Mumert wrote:
> Hi David
>
> I can't help you with the torque issue but here is a site that list 
> alternative seals for the 231
> http://rebuiltautoengines.com/pontiac-articles.html
>
> Check about half way down the page
>
> Here is a copy of the pertinent line
> Engine to       Detroit   Enginetech     FM            ROL 
> Victor            Actual
> Be repaired Application
>
> Buick 231     17200      S-1389       BS-40613     RS-29470    
> JV-742-V Jeep 225
>
> Good Luck
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
> To: "GM-ECM" <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 3:57 PM
> Subject: [Gmecm] Off topic - rear main seal packing
>
>
>>
>>
>>  Hey here's an off-topic post for ya!  I am assembling a Buick 231 V6 
>> which has the "rope type" rear main seal.  All the other engines I've 
>> assembled have been equipped with a lip-style oil seal.  This rope 
>> type seal puts a serious bind on the crankshaft.  It takes about 30 
>> lb-ft of torque to rotate the crankshaft with only the main bearings 
>> and rear main seal installed.
>>  With the seal packing not installed, and the mains torqued the crank 
>> will rotate freely.  It's the packing causing the drag.  Is this 
>> normal, or is there a problem with the amount of packing I have 
>> installed? The instructions say to push the packing in the groove 
>> with a socket and shave it flush with the cap and block.  I did it 
>> this way and everything looks good and went toghether smoothly.
>>  Most older engines had the rope-type seal you guys may be able to 
>> tell me if this is supposed to cause this much drag?
>>  Thanks in advance!
>> David
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>>
>
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