From Terminal_Crazy at sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk  Thu Mar  1 01:28:36 2007
From: Terminal_Crazy at sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk (Terminal Crazy)
Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2007 07:28:36 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output
In-Reply-To: <8C929B4D86045B9-928-2A34@FWM-M41.sysops.aol.com>
References: <45E36D14.5000609@comcast.net>
	<8C929B4D86045B9-928-2A34@FWM-M41.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4ebca3aa29Terminal_Crazy@sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk>

On 01 Mar, <davesnothereman at netscape.net> wrote:
> Bill, I think the easiest way is to look for the location in code which
> uses the variable 0x013E  KRPMAX      RPM Over Which Shift Light is
> Always On

>  If you can reverse the logic of this short section of code, you could
>  create a variable equal to "rpm below which shift light always off."
>  and use the two for control of the intake tuning valve.

OTTOMH rather than playing with the code, you could always build a little
logic inverter on the hardware output.

-- 
Mitch - 1995 Z28 LT1 M6          terminal_crazy at sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk
Lancashire England          http://www.sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk/terminal_crazy/



From Robin at FuryWorld.fsnet.co.uk  Thu Mar  1 02:30:30 2007
From: Robin at FuryWorld.fsnet.co.uk (Robin Handley)
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2007 08:30:30 -0000
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output
References: <45E36D14.5000609@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <034e01c75bdb$e0bc9810$020101c0@gandalf>

FWIW I'm using the Sunbird code (that ran on the '749) and configured the 
shift light to always come on above a set RPM by setting the value of EPROM 
memory location $013E (where $0000 is the address of the first byte in the 
EPROM).

4000 RPM is a valid value for this. I've successfully tested it at 2000.

HTH

Robin

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Shaw" <b.shaw at comcast.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: 26 February 2007 23:28
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output


> I've just obtained a 32 valve 5.0L engine for my 928.  This should give me 
> about 90 hp more than my 16V 4.7L before I add the forced induction.  One 
> issue I have to address with the 32V is the flappy valve in the intake. 
> This is an intake resonance device that is normally triggered to open at 
> about 4000 rpm by the Bosch LH ecu.
>
> I'm thinking about controlling it with the shift light output on my '749, 
> but it needs to be modified a bit so that it triggers just on RPM,  not 
> engine load or anything else.  Has anyone modified the shift light output 
> on a '749 to be just an RPM trigger?
>
> TIA,
>
> Bill
> 928s 4.7L 5 sp. Vortech/749 (soon to be 5.0L 32V!)
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> 



From b.shaw at comcast.net  Thu Mar  1 06:41:09 2007
From: b.shaw at comcast.net (Bill Shaw)
Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2007 07:41:09 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output
In-Reply-To: <034e01c75bdb$e0bc9810$020101c0@gandalf>
References: <45E36D14.5000609@comcast.net>
	<034e01c75bdb$e0bc9810$020101c0@gandalf>
Message-ID: <45E6C9E5.5070601@comcast.net>

This sounds like what I'm looking for.  I'll have to burn an eprom and 
give it a shot on the bench.  I found a fuel leak on my 4.7L last 
night,  so it's down until the new engine is ready.

Thanks Robin, Mike, Zaphod & Mitch. 

Bill

Robin Handley wrote:
> FWIW I'm using the Sunbird code (that ran on the '749) and configured 
> the shift light to always come on above a set RPM by setting the value 
> of EPROM memory location $013E (where $0000 is the address of the 
> first byte in the EPROM).
>
> 4000 RPM is a valid value for this. I've successfully tested it at 2000.
>
> HTH
>
> Robin
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Shaw" <b.shaw at comcast.net>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: 26 February 2007 23:28
> Subject: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output
>
>
>> I've just obtained a 32 valve 5.0L engine for my 928.  This should 
>> give me about 90 hp more than my 16V 4.7L before I add the forced 
>> induction.  One issue I have to address with the 32V is the flappy 
>> valve in the intake. This is an intake resonance device that is 
>> normally triggered to open at about 4000 rpm by the Bosch LH ecu.
>>
>> I'm thinking about controlling it with the shift light output on my 
>> '749, but it needs to be modified a bit so that it triggers just on 
>> RPM,  not engine load or anything else.  Has anyone modified the 
>> shift light output on a '749 to be just an RPM trigger?
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Bill
>> 928s 4.7L 5 sp. Vortech/749 (soon to be 5.0L 32V!)



From davesnothereman at netscape.net  Sat Mar  3 08:09:09 2007
From: davesnothereman at netscape.net (davesnothereman at netscape.net)
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2007 09:09:09 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output
In-Reply-To: <034e01c75bdb$e0bc9810$020101c0@gandalf>
References: <45E36D14.5000609@comcast.net>
	<034e01c75bdb$e0bc9810$020101c0@gandalf>
Message-ID: <8C92BB4A554DFEC-1820-9443@FWM-M21.sysops.aol.com>

  
  What I missed in the my first reply was the corresponding value at 0x013D, minimum value for shift light on. Setting both 0x013D and 0x013E to desired threshold with 13D being slightly lower should effectively force the light on or off based on RPM.
 
 The variables related to the shift light are posted here:
 http://www.diy-efi.org/pipermail/gmecm/2006-June/002009.html
 
 Zaphod
 
  
 -----Original Message-----
 From: Robin at FuryWorld.fsnet.co.uk
 To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
 Sent: Thu, 1 Mar 2007 3:30 AM
 Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output
 
  FWIW I'm using the Sunbird code (that ran on the '749) and configured the shift light to always come on above a set RPM by setting the value of EPROM memory location $013E (where $0000 is the address of the first byte in the EPROM). 
 
 4000 RPM is a valid value for this. I've successfully tested it at 2000. 
 
 HTH 
 
 Robin 
 
 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Shaw" <b.shaw at comcast.net> 
 To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org> 
 Sent: 26 February 2007 23:28 
 Subject: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output 
 
 > I've just obtained a 32 valve 5.0L engine for my 928. This should give me > about 90 hp more than my 16V 4.7L before I add the forced induction. One > issue I have to address with the 32V is the flappy valve in the intake. > This is an intake resonance device that is normally triggered to open at > about 4000 rpm by the Bosch LH ecu. 
 > 
 > I'm thinking about controlling it with the shift light output on my '749, > but it needs to be modified a bit so that it triggers just on RPM, not > engine load or anything else. Has anyone modified the shift light output > on a '749 to be just an RPM trigger? 
 > 
 > TIA, 
 > 
 > Bill 
 > 928s 4.7L 5 sp. Vortech/749 (soon to be 5.0L 32V!) 
 > _______________________________________________ 
 > Gmecm mailing list 
 > Gmecm at diy-efi.org 
 > Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm 
 > Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm 
 > 
 _______________________________________________ 
 Gmecm mailing list 
 Gmecm at diy-efi.org 
 Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm 
 Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm 
   
________________________________________________________________________
Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.


From b.shaw at comcast.net  Sat Mar  3 08:37:27 2007
From: b.shaw at comcast.net (Bill Shaw)
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2007 09:37:27 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output
In-Reply-To: <8C92BB4A554DFEC-1820-9443@FWM-M21.sysops.aol.com>
References: <45E36D14.5000609@comcast.net>	<034e01c75bdb$e0bc9810$020101c0@gandalf>
	<8C92BB4A554DFEC-1820-9443@FWM-M21.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <45E98827.7080700@comcast.net>

Perfect,  thanks Zaphod.

Bill

davesnothereman at netscape.net wrote:
>   
>   What I missed in the my first reply was the corresponding value at 0x013D, minimum value for shift light on. Setting both 0x013D and 0x013E to desired threshold with 13D being slightly lower should effectively force the light on or off based on RPM.
>  
>  The variables related to the shift light are posted here:
>  http://www.diy-efi.org/pipermail/gmecm/2006-June/002009.html
>  
>  Zaphod
>  
>   
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: Robin at FuryWorld.fsnet.co.uk
>  To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
>  Sent: Thu, 1 Mar 2007 3:30 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output
>  
>   FWIW I'm using the Sunbird code (that ran on the '749) and configured the shift light to always come on above a set RPM by setting the value of EPROM memory location $013E (where $0000 is the address of the first byte in the EPROM). 
>  
>  4000 RPM is a valid value for this. I've successfully tested it at 2000. 
>  
>  HTH 
>  
>  Robin 
>  
>  ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Shaw" <b.shaw at comcast.net> 
>  To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org> 
>  Sent: 26 February 2007 23:28 
>  Subject: [Gmecm] 749 Shift light output 
>  
>  > I've just obtained a 32 valve 5.0L engine for my 928. This should give me > about 90 hp more than my 16V 4.7L before I add the forced induction. One > issue I have to address with the 32V is the flappy valve in the intake. > This is an intake resonance device that is normally triggered to open at > about 4000 rpm by the Bosch LH ecu. 
>  > 
>  > I'm thinking about controlling it with the shift light output on my '749, > but it needs to be modified a bit so that it triggers just on RPM, not > engine load or anything else. Has anyone modified the shift light output > on a '749 to be just an RPM trigger? 
>  > 
>  > TIA, 
>  > 
>  > Bill 
>  > 928s 4.7L 5 sp. Vortech/749 (soon to be 5.0L 32V!) 
>  > _______________________________________________ 
>  > Gmecm mailing list 
>  > Gmecm at diy-efi.org 
>  > Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm 
>  > Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm 
>  > 
>  _______________________________________________ 
>  Gmecm mailing list 
>  Gmecm at diy-efi.org 
>  Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm 
>  Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm 
>    
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection.
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>
>   



From tim.eichhorn at sbcglobal.net  Sat Mar  3 09:20:45 2007
From: tim.eichhorn at sbcglobal.net (Tim Eichhorn)
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 07:20:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Gmecm] MIL wiring (Newbie Question)
Message-ID: <34569.71058.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

This is a fairly easy question, I think.  What is the standard wiring for the MIL output  to the lamp?  I have put a voltmeter on it and it seems to go high (WRT GND) when the lamp should be off and low when the lamp should be on.  This is actually a MEFI 4 controller, but it is a Delphi/DELCO product and shares much of the same architecture and features as it's automotive cousins.  Is this output actually a switching ground i.e., should my MIL have 12V+  on one side with the other (GND) tied to this "output"?

Thanks,

Tim


From jlg-sep at comcast.net  Sat Mar  3 10:30:45 2007
From: jlg-sep at comcast.net (Scott Peitzsch)
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 11:30:45 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] MIL wiring (Newbie Question)
References: <34569.71058.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001601c75db1$4ca2ca00$6501a8c0@HPDESKTOP>

> This is a fairly easy question, I think.  What is the standard wiring for 
> the MIL output  to
> the lamp?  I have put a voltmeter on it and it seems to go high (WRT GND) 
> when the lamp
> should be off and low when the lamp should be on.  This is actually a MEFI 
> 4 controller,
> but it is a Delphi/DELCO product and shares much of the same architecture 
> and features
> as it's automotive cousins.  Is this output actually a switching ground 
> i.e., should my MIL
> have 12V+  on one side with the other (GND) tied to this "output"?


You're pretty much nailed it - typical GM MIL wiring is +12VDC to one side 
of the
lamp with the ECM/PCM switching the other side to ground when active.

-Scott



From tim.eichhorn at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar  8 19:49:18 2007
From: tim.eichhorn at sbcglobal.net (Tim Eichhorn)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2007 17:49:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Gmecm] MIL wiring (Newbie Question)
In-Reply-To: <001601c75db1$4ca2ca00$6501a8c0@HPDESKTOP>
Message-ID: <358529.23094.qm@web82802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Scott,

Thanks for the feedback.  Just trying to finish up the wiring, and this is one of the last pieces.

Now I just have to get the fuel table tweaked.  It's pretty close, just has some lean spots I have straighten out...

V/r

Tim Eichhorn

Scott Peitzsch <jlg-sep at comcast.net> wrote: > This is a fairly easy question, I think.  What is the standard wiring for 
> the MIL output  to
> the lamp?  I have put a voltmeter on it and it seems to go high (WRT GND) 
> when the lamp
> should be off and low when the lamp should be on.  This is actually a MEFI 
> 4 controller,
> but it is a Delphi/DELCO product and shares much of the same architecture 
> and features
> as it's automotive cousins.  Is this output actually a switching ground 
> i.e., should my MIL
> have 12V+  on one side with the other (GND) tied to this "output"?


You're pretty much nailed it - typical GM MIL wiring is +12VDC to one side 
of the
lamp with the ECM/PCM switching the other side to ground when active.

-Scott

_______________________________________________
Gmecm mailing list
Gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm



From rjdrew at comcast.net  Sun Mar 11 13:32:41 2007
From: rjdrew at comcast.net (Ron Drew)
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 14:32:41 -0400
Subject: [Gmecm] Tachometer circuit question
References: <358529.23094.qm@web82802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c7640b$a7c01630$6501a8c0@RonHome>

I have a 1988 Cutlas Cierra (2.8L) which the tachometer gauge has not worked 
since I purchased the car. The schematics that I have indicates that the ECM 
gets an RPM signal from the ignition module via white wire. Other than this, 
I can find no other reference in my manuals to the feed circuit for the 
tachometer gauge. I assume it would be similar to the VSS circuit (the pulse 
train is fed to the ECM which applies a scale factor and outputs the scaled 
signal to the tachometer).

This is what I have tried so far:

- Swapped the ECM.
- Swapped the tach (I purchased a spare instrument cluster from a junk 
yard).
- I did swap the ignition module for no other reason than I was running out 
of things to try.
- I have not tried to ohm the tach feed circuit since I am at a lost as to 
what circuit specifically supplies the signal to the tachometer gauge.

Can anyone offer any help?

Thanks
Ron Drew 



From dgilbert78 at juno.com  Sun Mar 11 13:59:51 2007
From: dgilbert78 at juno.com (dgilbert78 at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 13:59:51 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] Tachometer circuit question
Message-ID: <20070311.135951.-182087.3.dgilbert78@juno.com>

Ron: I am not sure about your 88 olds, but the 87 Ek Camino with a 4.3
and external coil. If you have a HEI with coil in the top of the dist,
then there is a TACH port on the dist usually. If you have a external
coil then the TACH wire comes from that to the tachometer, ECM plays no
role in the tach function, now thats an 87 El Camino, since your have an
88, I am just assuming its similiar
good luck
Darryl..
On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 14:32:41 -0400 "Ron Drew" <rjdrew at comcast.net>
writes:
> I have a 1988 Cutlas Cierra (2.8L) which the tachometer gauge has not 
> worked 
> since I purchased the car. The schematics that I have indicates that 
> the ECM 
> gets an RPM signal from the ignition module via white wire. Other 
> than this, 
> I can find no other reference in my manuals to the feed circuit for 
> the 
> tachometer gauge. I assume it would be similar to the VSS circuit 
> (the pulse 
> train is fed to the ECM which applies a scale factor and outputs the 
> scaled 
> signal to the tachometer).
> 
> This is what I have tried so far:
> 
> - Swapped the ECM.
> - Swapped the tach (I purchased a spare instrument cluster from a 
> junk 
> yard).
> - I did swap the ignition module for no other reason than I was 
> running out 
> of things to try.
> - I have not tried to ohm the tach feed circuit since I am at a lost 
> as to 
> what circuit specifically supplies the signal to the tachometer 
> gauge.
> 
> Can anyone offer any help?
> 
> Thanks
> Ron Drew 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> 
> 

From Robin at FuryWorld.fsnet.co.uk  Sun Mar 11 14:56:15 2007
From: Robin at FuryWorld.fsnet.co.uk (Robin Handley)
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 19:56:15 -0000
Subject: [Gmecm] Tachometer circuit question
References: <358529.23094.qm@web82802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<000c01c7640b$a7c01630$6501a8c0@RonHome>
Message-ID: <09d001c76417$54d662b0$020101c0@gandalf>

>I have a 1988 Cutlas Cierra (2.8L) which the tachometer gauge has not 
>worked since I purchased the car. The schematics that I have indicates that 
>the ECM gets an RPM signal from the ignition module via white wire. Other 
>than this, I can find no other reference in my manuals to the feed circuit 
>for the tachometer gauge. I assume it would be similar to the VSS circuit 
>(the pulse train is fed to the ECM which applies a scale factor and outputs 
>the scaled signal to the tachometer).

Sorry I know nothing about the 1988 Cutlass, but I just drive my rev counter 
directly from the -ve coil wire - exactly as I did before I fitted a GMECM.

HTH

Robin 



From 9jim30 at charter.net  Sun Mar 11 18:34:34 2007
From: 9jim30 at charter.net (James Panter)
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 18:34:34 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
Message-ID: <002301c76435$d3fee490$7801a8c0@COMPY>

Hey Guys    Is there anyone who has done a small block Chev (twin turbos @ 8 
psi boost) using the $58 program that has it tuned??  I have my project 
running but very rick and was hoping to find someone who could send me a 
corrected bin or give me line items changes they made that worked.
Thanks for any help---
Jim 




From efi at dyakron.com  Mon Mar 12 07:48:37 2007
From: efi at dyakron.com (Mike V)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 08:48:37 -0400
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
References: <002301c76435$d3fee490$7801a8c0@COMPY>
Message-ID: <003e01c764a4$c1165970$6501a8c0@IBMm>

Hi Jim,
it's unlikely that there will be a bin that is ready made for your 
combination of
cam, injectors, etc.   Do you have a log file from your ALDL datastream?
Also, what are the specifics of the engine?  There are other factors, but
the camshaft specs and injector size are two big ones that come to mind.
Datastream monitoring is critical for addressing this sort of thing.
mv

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 7:34 PM
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM


> Hey Guys    Is there anyone who has done a small block Chev (twin turbos @ 
> 8 psi boost) using the $58 program that has it tuned??  I have my project 
> running but very rick and was hoping to find someone who could send me a 
> corrected bin or give me line items changes they made that worked.
> Thanks for any help---
> Jim
>
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm 



From 9jim30 at charter.net  Mon Mar 12 08:22:37 2007
From: 9jim30 at charter.net (James Panter)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 08:22:37 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
References: <002301c76435$d3fee490$7801a8c0@COMPY>
	<003e01c764a4$c1165970$6501a8c0@IBMm>
Message-ID: <000801c764a9$81c32910$7801a8c0@COMPY>

Mike:   Good point you make particularly on the injectors.   I doubt whether 
the small block is a 350 or 355 would make much difference in the larger 
picture (a stroker would).  I'm using a very mild Isky cam and 45 lb 
injectors and was just really surprised at how rich the engine is intially 
after just changing the bin to reflect a V8 rather than the V6 because the 
actually cyl volume is very similar.  And, yes I have an LM1 and all the 
Moates stuff.   I was just hoping to get close on the settings  and save 
time.   The car hasn't been driven yet, just started and it's far too rich 
to drive.
I appreciate you response.
Jim
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike V" <efi at dyakron.com>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM


> Hi Jim,
> it's unlikely that there will be a bin that is ready made for your 
> combination of
> cam, injectors, etc.   Do you have a log file from your ALDL datastream?
> Also, what are the specifics of the engine?  There are other factors, but
> the camshaft specs and injector size are two big ones that come to mind.
> Datastream monitoring is critical for addressing this sort of thing.
> mv
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 7:34 PM
> Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>
>
>> Hey Guys    Is there anyone who has done a small block Chev (twin turbos 
>> @ 8 psi boost) using the $58 program that has it tuned??  I have my 
>> project running but very rick and was hoping to find someone who could 
>> send me a corrected bin or give me line items changes they made that 
>> worked.
>> Thanks for any help---
>> Jim
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Gmecm mailing list
>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> 




From romans at starstream.net  Mon Mar 12 09:43:58 2007
From: romans at starstream.net (Mark Romans)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 07:43:58 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
References: <002301c76435$d3fee490$7801a8c0@COMPY><003e01c764a4$c1165970$6501a8c0@IBMm>
	<000801c764a9$81c32910$7801a8c0@COMPY>
Message-ID: <001201c764b4$de713340$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>

Hi Jim:  First make sure that your injector constant is set properly.
2nd.  A stock engine idles at about 35kpa, so what kpa does your engine idle 
at?
Past the VE setting from 35 kpa to the kpa your engine idles at.  Copy that 
kpa from the
colume where it idles all the way to the smallest kpa settings on the map. 
(Closed Throttle).
This will get you started.
Mark
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 6:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM


> Mike:   Good point you make particularly on the injectors.   I doubt 
> whether the small block is a 350 or 355 would make much difference in the 
> larger picture (a stroker would).  I'm using a very mild Isky cam and 45 
> lb injectors and was just really surprised at how rich the engine is 
> intially after just changing the bin to reflect a V8 rather than the V6 
> because the actually cyl volume is very similar.  And, yes I have an LM1 
> and all the Moates stuff.   I was just hoping to get close on the settings 
> and save time.   The car hasn't been driven yet, just started and it's far 
> too rich to drive.
> I appreciate you response.
> Jim
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mike V" <efi at dyakron.com>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>
>
>> Hi Jim,
>> it's unlikely that there will be a bin that is ready made for your 
>> combination of
>> cam, injectors, etc.   Do you have a log file from your ALDL datastream?
>> Also, what are the specifics of the engine?  There are other factors, but
>> the camshaft specs and injector size are two big ones that come to mind.
>> Datastream monitoring is critical for addressing this sort of thing.
>> mv
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 7:34 PM
>> Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>
>>
>>> Hey Guys    Is there anyone who has done a small block Chev (twin turbos 
>>> @ 8 psi boost) using the $58 program that has it tuned??  I have my 
>>> project running but very rick and was hoping to find someone who could 
>>> send me a corrected bin or give me line items changes they made that 
>>> worked.
>>> Thanks for any help---
>>> Jim
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Gmecm mailing list
>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> 



From wopontour at hotmail.com  Mon Mar 12 11:54:52 2007
From: wopontour at hotmail.com (WopOnTour)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 09:54:52 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] Tachometer circuit question
References: <358529.23094.qm@web82802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<000c01c7640b$a7c01630$6501a8c0@RonHome>
Message-ID: <BAY122-DAV459EE4A0D386B79D6F5ECBA7D0@phx.gbl>

Ron
Something of that vintage V6 does not use a the ECM as part of the tach 
display function. There is a wire that directly connects to the cluster's 
tach terminal from the DIS module itself.(Forget which pin but can get it if 
you need it) I believe there's usually a tach filter that connects to the 
DIS, I've seen those go bad, I'd try changing that next (assuming it's all 
still connected)
Good Luck
WopOnTour

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Drew" <rjdrew at comcast.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 11:32 AM
Subject: [Gmecm] Tachometer circuit question


>I have a 1988 Cutlas Cierra (2.8L) which the tachometer gauge has not 
>worked since I purchased the car. The schematics that I have indicates that 
>the ECM gets an RPM signal from the ignition module via white wire. Other 
>than this, I can find no other reference in my manuals to the feed circuit 
>for the tachometer gauge. I assume it would be similar to the VSS circuit 
>(the pulse train is fed to the ECM which applies a scale factor and outputs 
>the scaled signal to the tachometer).
>
> This is what I have tried so far:
>
> - Swapped the ECM.
> - Swapped the tach (I purchased a spare instrument cluster from a junk 
> yard).
> - I did swap the ignition module for no other reason than I was running 
> out of things to try.
> - I have not tried to ohm the tach feed circuit since I am at a lost as to 
> what circuit specifically supplies the signal to the tachometer gauge.
>
> Can anyone offer any help?
>
> Thanks
> Ron Drew
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> 



From Steve.Ravet at arm.com  Mon Mar 12 12:14:57 2007
From: Steve.Ravet at arm.com (Steve Ravet)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 10:14:57 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] Tachometer circuit question
In-Reply-To: <09d001c76417$54d662b0$020101c0@gandalf>
Message-ID: <F2C29ABA4D75714AAFC89187D9D8F29328B0ED@THUNDERBIRD.usa.Arm.com>

Scott Feaver sent along an IP schematic -- the list rejected the
attachment but I moved it to the wiki page.  Here is Scott's note:

Here is a diagram for you.  You'll be looking at the wire to B1.
Coming 
from the module..  It is white all the way with a connection in the
middle 
somewhere.

Hope this helps.
Scott

ps, go to diy-efi.org, click gmecm, click wiki, click GmecmScratch to
see the pdf file.  You may have to click a "show attachments" link if
there's nothing on the scratch page.

There is a scratch page for each list, this replaces the FTP site as a
place to put files of a temporary nature.  The list is configured to
reject attachments to emails.

regards,
--steve 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org 
> [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Robin Handley
> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 2:56 PM
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Tachometer circuit question
> 
> >I have a 1988 Cutlas Cierra (2.8L) which the tachometer 
> gauge has not 
> >worked since I purchased the car. The schematics that I have 
> indicates 
> >that the ECM gets an RPM signal from the ignition module via white 
> >wire. Other than this, I can find no other reference in my 
> manuals to 
> >the feed circuit for the tachometer gauge. I assume it would 
> be similar 
> >to the VSS circuit (the pulse train is fed to the ECM which 
> applies a 
> >scale factor and outputs the scaled signal to the tachometer).
> 
> Sorry I know nothing about the 1988 Cutlass, but I just drive 
> my rev counter directly from the -ve coil wire - exactly as I 
> did before I fitted a GMECM.
> 
> HTH
> 
> Robin 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> 

-- 
IMPORTANT NOTICE: The contents of this email and any attachments are confidential and may also be privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately and do not disclose the contents to any other person, use it for any purpose, or store or copy the information in any medium.  Thank you.




From 9jim30 at charter.net  Mon Mar 12 17:28:09 2007
From: 9jim30 at charter.net (James Panter)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 17:28:09 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
References: <002301c76435$d3fee490$7801a8c0@COMPY><003e01c764a4$c1165970$6501a8c0@IBMm><000801c764a9$81c32910$7801a8c0@COMPY>
	<001201c764b4$de713340$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>
Message-ID: <00e301c764f5$b802e0f0$7801a8c0@COMPY>

Mark:    I have the injector set at 7 for 42 lb injectors which should be 
correct.   The engine dies within two or three minutes after starting which, 
I believe, is due to the rich condition.  That constant was about 4.5 before 
so the new consant may help.
What line items are you referring to on the VE tables?  The only line item 
that I see  with VE and closed throttle is F30.
Your help and suggestions are greatly appreciated/
Jim Panter
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Romans" <romans at starstream.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM


> Hi Jim:  First make sure that your injector constant is set properly.
> 2nd.  A stock engine idles at about 35kpa, so what kpa does your engine 
> idle at?
> Past the VE setting from 35 kpa to the kpa your engine idles at.  Copy 
> that kpa from the
> colume where it idles all the way to the smallest kpa settings on the map. 
> (Closed Throttle).
> This will get you started.
> Mark
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 6:22 AM
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>
>
>> Mike:   Good point you make particularly on the injectors.   I doubt 
>> whether the small block is a 350 or 355 would make much difference in the 
>> larger picture (a stroker would).  I'm using a very mild Isky cam and 45 
>> lb injectors and was just really surprised at how rich the engine is 
>> intially after just changing the bin to reflect a V8 rather than the V6 
>> because the actually cyl volume is very similar.  And, yes I have an LM1 
>> and all the Moates stuff.   I was just hoping to get close on the 
>> settings and save time.   The car hasn't been driven yet, just started 
>> and it's far too rich to drive.
>> I appreciate you response.
>> Jim
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Mike V" <efi at dyakron.com>
>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:48 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>
>>
>>> Hi Jim,
>>> it's unlikely that there will be a bin that is ready made for your 
>>> combination of
>>> cam, injectors, etc.   Do you have a log file from your ALDL datastream?
>>> Also, what are the specifics of the engine?  There are other factors, 
>>> but
>>> the camshaft specs and injector size are two big ones that come to mind.
>>> Datastream monitoring is critical for addressing this sort of thing.
>>> mv
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>> From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 7:34 PM
>>> Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hey Guys    Is there anyone who has done a small block Chev (twin 
>>>> turbos @ 8 psi boost) using the $58 program that has it tuned??  I have 
>>>> my project running but very rick and was hoping to find someone who 
>>>> could send me a corrected bin or give me line items changes they made 
>>>> that worked.
>>>> Thanks for any help---
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Gmecm mailing list
>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> 




From romans at starstream.net  Tue Mar 13 00:29:27 2007
From: romans at starstream.net (Mark Romans)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 22:29:27 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
References: <002301c76435$d3fee490$7801a8c0@COMPY><003e01c764a4$c1165970$6501a8c0@IBMm><000801c764a9$81c32910$7801a8c0@COMPY><001201c764b4$de713340$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>
	<00e301c764f5$b802e0f0$7801a8c0@COMPY>
Message-ID: <000601c76530$918756f0$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>

I don't know where the injector constant is on a 4.3 Turbo $58 file, I 
remember it has something to do with the
EGR...  BPC vs EGR?

The two tables I'm referring to are the VE Table - in idle
and VE Table - not in idle.

Since you say you are idling for 3 minutes before it dies, it would indicate 
to me that it's too rich, but when it goes
into close loop it does something bad.

You need to scan it to see what it's doing..  The VE Table, - in idle goes 
from 20 kpa to 100 kpa and from 600 RPM's to 1600.
The 600 rpm and 20 kpa setting is 28.08.  If it's idling at 50 kpa due to 
your cam and 600 rpm's, the be at 50kpa is set at 36.66
You need to reduce this number to match up with what fuel it needs, smooth 
the map....  Run it on as many cells as possible and keep
going until the corrections are very small, try to keep it pulling out about 
5% fuel.
Mark
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM


> Mark:    I have the injector set at 7 for 42 lb injectors which should be 
> correct.   The engine dies within two or three minutes after starting 
> which, I believe, is due to the rich condition.  That constant was about 
> 4.5 before so the new consant may help.
> What line items are you referring to on the VE tables?  The only line item 
> that I see  with VE and closed throttle is F30.
> Your help and suggestions are greatly appreciated/
> Jim Panter
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mark Romans" <romans at starstream.net>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 9:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>
>
>> Hi Jim:  First make sure that your injector constant is set properly.
>> 2nd.  A stock engine idles at about 35kpa, so what kpa does your engine 
>> idle at?
>> Past the VE setting from 35 kpa to the kpa your engine idles at.  Copy 
>> that kpa from the
>> colume where it idles all the way to the smallest kpa settings on the 
>> map. (Closed Throttle).
>> This will get you started.
>> Mark
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 6:22 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>
>>
>>> Mike:   Good point you make particularly on the injectors.   I doubt 
>>> whether the small block is a 350 or 355 would make much difference in 
>>> the larger picture (a stroker would).  I'm using a very mild Isky cam 
>>> and 45 lb injectors and was just really surprised at how rich the engine 
>>> is intially after just changing the bin to reflect a V8 rather than the 
>>> V6 because the actually cyl volume is very similar.  And, yes I have an 
>>> LM1 and all the Moates stuff.   I was just hoping to get close on the 
>>> settings and save time.   The car hasn't been driven yet, just started 
>>> and it's far too rich to drive.
>>> I appreciate you response.
>>> Jim
>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>> From: "Mike V" <efi at dyakron.com>
>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:48 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hi Jim,
>>>> it's unlikely that there will be a bin that is ready made for your 
>>>> combination of
>>>> cam, injectors, etc.   Do you have a log file from your ALDL 
>>>> datastream?
>>>> Also, what are the specifics of the engine?  There are other factors, 
>>>> but
>>>> the camshaft specs and injector size are two big ones that come to 
>>>> mind.
>>>> Datastream monitoring is critical for addressing this sort of thing.
>>>> mv
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>>> From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
>>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>>>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 7:34 PM
>>>> Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Hey Guys    Is there anyone who has done a small block Chev (twin 
>>>>> turbos @ 8 psi boost) using the $58 program that has it tuned??  I 
>>>>> have my project running but very rick and was hoping to find someone 
>>>>> who could send me a corrected bin or give me line items changes they 
>>>>> made that worked.
>>>>> Thanks for any help---
>>>>> Jim
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Gmecm mailing list
>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> 



From davesnothereman at netscape.net  Wed Mar 14 06:12:22 2007
From: davesnothereman at netscape.net (davesnothereman at netscape.net)
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 07:12:22 -0400
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
In-Reply-To: <000601c76530$918756f0$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>
References: <002301c76435$d3fee490$7801a8c0@COMPY><003e01c764a4$c1165970$6501a8c0@IBMm><000801c764a9$81c32910$7801a8c0@COMPY><001201c764b4$de713340$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>	<00e301c764f5$b802e0f0$7801a8c0@COMPY>
	<000601c76530$918756f0$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>
Message-ID: <8C93440C5BFFEEB-B84-23E1@WEBMAIL-DC04.sysops.aol.com>

 Yes, you need to adjust the BPW vs Desired EGR table to affect fuel delivery.  The 0% EGR entry is the main cell.  It may help to set egr enable temp to it's maximum during initial stages of tuning.
 
The $58 calibration spark values come from the lowest RPM row of the main spark table when the throttle is closed.  Sometimes this can cause issues.
 
Idle can be tricky in $58.  It helps to isolate closed loop issues from open loop issues by setting closed loop enable temp very high.  It's often easier to make the engine idle well in open loop, especially if you have a bit of a cam.  O2 parameters can be important as the ecm will calculate the time required for the O2 signal to get back to the ecm.
 
You can also force the ecm rich or lean in closed loop to see what happens.
 
Zaphod
 
-----Original Message-----
From: romans at starstream.net
To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
Sent: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 12:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM


I don't know where the injector constant is on a 4.3 Turbo $58 file, I remember it has something to do with the 
EGR... BPC vs EGR? 
 
The two tables I'm referring to are the VE Table - in idle 
and VE Table - not in idle. 
 
Since you say you are idling for 3 minutes before it dies, it would indicate to me that it's too rich, but when it goes 
into close loop it does something bad. 
 
You need to scan it to see what it's doing.. The VE Table, - in idle goes from 20 kpa to 100 kpa and from 600 RPM's to 1600. 
The 600 rpm and 20 kpa setting is 28.08. If it's idling at 50 kpa due to your cam and 600 rpm's, the be at 50kpa is set at 36.66 
You need to reduce this number to match up with what fuel it needs, smooth the map.... Run it on as many cells as possible and keep 
going until the corrections are very small, try to keep it pulling out about 5% fuel. 
Mark 
----- Original Message ----- From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net> 
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org> 
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 3:28 PM 
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM 
 
> Mark: I have the injector set at 7 for 42 lb injectors which should be > correct. The engine dies within two or three minutes after starting > which, I believe, is due to the rich condition. That constant was about > 4.5 before so the new consant may help. 
> What line items are you referring to on the VE tables? The only line item > that I see with VE and closed throttle is F30. 
> Your help and suggestions are greatly appreciated/ 
> Jim Panter 
> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark Romans" <romans at starstream.net> 
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org> 
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 9:43 AM 
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM 
> 
> 
>> Hi Jim: First make sure that your injector constant is set properly. 
>> 2nd. A stock engine idles at about 35kpa, so what kpa does your engine >> idle at? 
>> Past the VE setting from 35 kpa to the kpa your engine idles at. Copy >> that kpa from the 
>> colume where it idles all the way to the smallest kpa settings on the >> map. (Closed Throttle). 
>> This will get you started. 
>> Mark 
>> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net> 
>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org> 
>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 6:22 AM 
>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM 
>> 
>> 
>>> Mike: Good point you make particularly on the injectors. I doubt >>> whether the small block is a 350 or 355 would make much difference in >>> the larger picture (a stroker would). I'm using a very mild Isky cam >>> and 45 lb injectors and was just really surprised at how rich the engine >>> is intially after just changing the bin to reflect a V8 rather than the >>> V6 because the actually cyl volume is very similar. And, yes I have an >>> LM1 and all the Moates stuff. I was just hoping to get close on the >>> settings and save time. The car hasn't been driven yet, just started >>> and it's far too rich to drive. 
>>> I appreciate you response. 
>>> Jim 
>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Mike V" <efi at dyakron.com> 
>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org> 
>>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:48 AM 
>>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> Hi Jim, 
>>>> it's unlikely that there will be a bin that is ready made for your >>>> combination of 
>>>> cam, injectors, etc. Do you have a log file from your ALDL >>>> datastream? 
>>>> Also, what are the specifics of the engine? There are other factors, >>>> but 
>>>> the camshaft specs and injector size are two big ones that come to >>>> mind. 
>>>> Datastream monitoring is critical for addressing this sort of thing. 
>>>> mv 
>>>> 
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net> 
>>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org> 
>>>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 7:34 PM 
>>>> Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> Hey Guys Is there anyone who has done a small block Chev (twin >>>>> turbos @ 8 psi boost) using the $58 program that has it tuned?? I >>>>> have my project running but very rick and was hoping to find someone >>>>> who could send me a corrected bin or give me line items changes they >>>>> made that worked. 
>>>>> Thanks for any help--- 
>>>>> Jim 
>>>>> 
>>>>> _______________________________________________ 
>>>>> Gmecm mailing list 
>>>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org 
>>>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm 
>>>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________ 
>>>> Gmecm mailing list 
>>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org 
>>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm 
>>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________ 
>>> Gmecm mailing list 
>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org 
>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm 
>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm 
>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> Gmecm mailing list 
>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org 
>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm 
>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm 
>> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> Gmecm mailing list 
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org 
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm 
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From 9jim30 at charter.net  Wed Mar 14 08:08:00 2007
From: 9jim30 at charter.net (James Panter)
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 08:08:00 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
References: <002301c76435$d3fee490$7801a8c0@COMPY><003e01c764a4$c1165970$6501a8c0@IBMm><000801c764a9$81c32910$7801a8c0@COMPY><001201c764b4$de713340$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>	<00e301c764f5$b802e0f0$7801a8c0@COMPY><000601c76530$918756f0$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>
	<8C93440C5BFFEEB-B84-23E1@WEBMAIL-DC04.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <001e01c76639$cbc346d0$7801a8c0@COMPY>

I was looking at some of my very early communication on the whole subject of 
the 749 ECM and the Proms used in it.   One fellow was quite insistant that 
the right Prom to use was not the BBZB as used in the Sy/Ty but that the 
proper one would be the 90-92 Firebird Prom with the $58 installed in it. 
Can someone who has actually perfected the tune for a Turbocharged V8 
respond with what Prom they  used?  I'm working on utilizing the BBZB and if 
it can't be perfected for a V8, I want to stop wasting my time.  What are 
the issues inherent in this issue and what are the pros and cons?    Thanks
Jim
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <davesnothereman at netscape.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM


> Yes, you need to adjust the BPW vs Desired EGR table to affect fuel 
> delivery.  The 0% EGR entry is the main cell.  It may help to set egr 
> enable temp to it's maximum during initial stages of tuning.
>
> The $58 calibration spark values come from the lowest RPM row of the main 
> spark table when the throttle is closed.  Sometimes this can cause issues.
>
> Idle can be tricky in $58.  It helps to isolate closed loop issues from 
> open loop issues by setting closed loop enable temp very high.  It's often 
> easier to make the engine idle well in open loop, especially if you have a 
> bit of a cam.  O2 parameters can be important as the ecm will calculate 
> the time required for the O2 signal to get back to the ecm.
>
> You can also force the ecm rich or lean in closed loop to see what 
> happens.
>
> Zaphod
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: romans at starstream.net
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Sent: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 12:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>
>
> I don't know where the injector constant is on a 4.3 Turbo $58 file, I 
> remember it has something to do with the
> EGR... BPC vs EGR?
>
> The two tables I'm referring to are the VE Table - in idle
> and VE Table - not in idle.
>
> Since you say you are idling for 3 minutes before it dies, it would 
> indicate to me that it's too rich, but when it goes
> into close loop it does something bad.
>
> You need to scan it to see what it's doing.. The VE Table, - in idle goes 
> from 20 kpa to 100 kpa and from 600 RPM's to 1600.
> The 600 rpm and 20 kpa setting is 28.08. If it's idling at 50 kpa due to 
> your cam and 600 rpm's, the be at 50kpa is set at 36.66
> You need to reduce this number to match up with what fuel it needs, smooth 
> the map.... Run it on as many cells as possible and keep
> going until the corrections are very small, try to keep it pulling out 
> about 5% fuel.
> Mark
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Panter" <9jim30 at charter.net>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 3:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>
>> Mark: I have the injector set at 7 for 42 lb injectors which should be > 
>> correct. The engine dies within two or three minutes after starting > 
>> which, I believe, is due to the rich condition. That constant was about > 
>> 4.5 before so the new consant may help.
>> What line items are you referring to on the VE tables? The only line item 
>>  > that I see with VE and closed throttle is F30.
>> Your help and suggestions are greatly appreciated/
>> Jim Panter
>> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark Romans" 
>> <romans at starstream.net>
>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 9:43 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>
>>
>>> Hi Jim: First make sure that your injector constant is set properly.
>>> 2nd. A stock engine idles at about 35kpa, so what kpa does your engine 
>>>  >> idle at?
>>> Past the VE setting from 35 kpa to the kpa your engine idles at. Copy >> 
>>> that kpa from the
>>> colume where it idles all the way to the smallest kpa settings on the >> 
>>> map. (Closed Throttle).
>>> This will get you started.
>>> Mark
>>> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "James Panter" 
>>> <9jim30 at charter.net>
>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 6:22 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>>
>>>
>>>> Mike: Good point you make particularly on the injectors. I doubt >>> 
>>>> whether the small block is a 350 or 355 would make much difference in 
>>>>  >>> the larger picture (a stroker would). I'm using a very mild Isky 
>>>> cam >>> and 45 lb injectors and was just really surprised at how rich 
>>>> the engine >>> is intially after just changing the bin to reflect a V8 
>>>> rather than the >>> V6 because the actually cyl volume is very similar. 
>>>> And, yes I have an >>> LM1 and all the Moates stuff. I was just hoping 
>>>> to get close on the >>> settings and save time. The car hasn't been 
>>>> driven yet, just started >>> and it's far too rich to drive.
>>>> I appreciate you response.
>>>> Jim
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Mike V" <efi at dyakron.com>
>>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>>>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:48 AM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Hi Jim,
>>>>> it's unlikely that there will be a bin that is ready made for your 
>>>>>  >>>> combination of
>>>>> cam, injectors, etc. Do you have a log file from your ALDL >>>> 
>>>>> datastream?
>>>>> Also, what are the specifics of the engine? There are other factors, 
>>>>>  >>>> but
>>>>> the camshaft specs and injector size are two big ones that come to 
>>>>>  >>>> mind.
>>>>> Datastream monitoring is critical for addressing this sort of thing.
>>>>> mv
>>>>>
>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> From: "James Panter" 
>>>>> <9jim30 at charter.net>
>>>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>>>>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 7:34 PM
>>>>> Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hey Guys Is there anyone who has done a small block Chev (twin >>>>> 
>>>>>> turbos @ 8 psi boost) using the $58 program that has it tuned?? I 
>>>>>>  >>>>> have my project running but very rick and was hoping to find 
>>>>>> someone >>>>> who could send me a corrected bin or give me line items 
>>>>>> changes they >>>>> made that worked.
>>>>>> Thanks for any help--- 
>>>>>> Jim
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>>>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>>>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>>>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Gmecm mailing list
>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading 
> spam and email virus protection.
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
> 




From rawardsr at ameritech.net  Wed Mar 14 08:27:27 2007
From: rawardsr at ameritech.net (rawardsr at ameritech.net)
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 06:27:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
In-Reply-To: <001e01c76639$cbc346d0$7801a8c0@COMPY>
Message-ID: <986932.46618.qm@web35415.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello James

I've run $58 on a 32K (29AT256)flash prom without
issues.  Just load the bin file into the upper half of
the prom. (start bin @ $4000)

I ran a 305 with twin Eaton M90 blowers with a
modified 7749 (FETs upgraded for use with 8 low Z, 35
lb injectors) at 15 lbs boost.

There is a ton of info about my setup on Thirdgen.org,
search for SATURN5, in the DIY Prom section.

I'll try to remember when I get home from work to look
for one of my old bin files.

Cheers, Bob
--- James Panter <9jim30 at charter.net> wrote:

> I was looking at some of my very early communication
> on the whole subject of 
> the 749 ECM and the Proms used in it.   One fellow
> was quite insistant that 
> the right Prom to use was not the BBZB as used in
> the Sy/Ty but that the 
> proper one would be the 90-92 Firebird Prom with the
> $58 installed in it. 
> Can someone who has actually perfected the tune for
> a Turbocharged V8 
> respond with what Prom they  used?  I'm working on
> utilizing the BBZB and if 
> it can't be perfected for a V8, I want to stop
> wasting my time.  What are 
> the issues inherent in this issue and what are the
> pros and cons?    Thanks
> Jim
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <davesnothereman at netscape.net>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:12 AM
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
> 
> 
> > Yes, you need to adjust the BPW vs Desired EGR
> table to affect fuel 
> > delivery.  The 0% EGR entry is the main cell.  It
> may help to set egr 
> > enable temp to it's maximum during initial stages
> of tuning.
> >
> > The $58 calibration spark values come from the
> lowest RPM row of the main 
> > spark table when the throttle is closed. 
> Sometimes this can cause issues.
> >
> > Idle can be tricky in $58.  It helps to isolate
> closed loop issues from 
> > open loop issues by setting closed loop enable
> temp very high.  It's often 
> > easier to make the engine idle well in open loop,
> especially if you have a 
> > bit of a cam.  O2 parameters can be important as
> the ecm will calculate 
> > the time required for the O2 signal to get back to
> the ecm.
> >
> > You can also force the ecm rich or lean in closed
> loop to see what 
> > happens.
> >
> > Zaphod
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: romans at starstream.net
> > To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> > Sent: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 12:29 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
> >
> >
> > I don't know where the injector constant is on a
> 4.3 Turbo $58 file, I 
> > remember it has something to do with the
> > EGR... BPC vs EGR?
> >
> > The two tables I'm referring to are the VE Table -
> in idle
> > and VE Table - not in idle.
> >
> > Since you say you are idling for 3 minutes before
> it dies, it would 
> > indicate to me that it's too rich, but when it
> goes
> > into close loop it does something bad.
> >
> > You need to scan it to see what it's doing.. The
> VE Table, - in idle goes 
> > from 20 kpa to 100 kpa and from 600 RPM's to 1600.
> > The 600 rpm and 20 kpa setting is 28.08. If it's
> idling at 50 kpa due to 
> > your cam and 600 rpm's, the be at 50kpa is set at
> 36.66
> > You need to reduce this number to match up with
> what fuel it needs, smooth 
> > the map.... Run it on as many cells as possible
> and keep
> > going until the corrections are very small, try to
> keep it pulling out 
> > about 5% fuel.
> > Mark
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Panter"
> <9jim30 at charter.net>
> > To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 3:28 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
> >
> >> Mark: I have the injector set at 7 for 42 lb
> injectors which should be > 
> >> correct. The engine dies within two or three
> minutes after starting > 
> >> which, I believe, is due to the rich condition.
> That constant was about > 
> >> 4.5 before so the new consant may help.
> >> What line items are you referring to on the VE
> tables? The only line item 
> >>  > that I see with VE and closed throttle is F30.
> >> Your help and suggestions are greatly
> appreciated/
> >> Jim Panter
> >> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark
> Romans" 
> >> <romans at starstream.net>
> >> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> >> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 9:43 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
> >>
> >>
> >>> Hi Jim: First make sure that your injector
> constant is set properly.
> >>> 2nd. A stock engine idles at about 35kpa, so
> what kpa does your engine 
> >>>  >> idle at?
> >>> Past the VE setting from 35 kpa to the kpa your
> engine idles at. Copy >> 
> >>> that kpa from the
> >>> colume where it idles all the way to the
> smallest kpa settings on the >> 
> >>> map. (Closed Throttle).
> >>> This will get you started.
> >>> Mark
> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "James
> Panter" 
> >>> <9jim30 at charter.net>
> >>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> >>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 6:22 AM
> >>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Mike: Good point you make particularly on the
> injectors. I doubt >>> 
> >>>> whether the small block is a 350 or 355 would
> make much difference in 
> >>>>  >>> the larger picture (a stroker would). I'm
> using a very mild Isky 
> >>>> cam >>> and 45 lb injectors and was just really
> surprised at how rich 
> >>>> the engine >>> is intially after just changing
> the bin to reflect a V8 
> >>>> rather than the >>> V6 because the actually cyl
> volume is very similar. 
> >>>> And, yes I have an >>> LM1 and all the Moates
> stuff. I was just hoping 
> >>>> to get close on the >>> settings and save time.
> The car hasn't been 
> >>>> driven yet, just started >>> and it's far too
> rich to drive.
> >>>> I appreciate you response.
> >>>> Jim
> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Mike V"
> <efi at dyakron.com>
> >>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> >>>> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:48 AM
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> Hi Jim,
> >>>>> it's unlikely that there will be a bin that is
> ready made for your 
> >>>>>  >>>> combination of
> >>>>> cam, injectors, etc. Do you have a log file
> from your ALDL >>>> 
> >>>>> datastream?
> >>>>> Also, what are the specifics of the engine?
> There are other factors, 
> >>>>>  >>>> but
> >>>>> the camshaft specs and injector size are two
> big ones that come to 
> >>>>>  >>>> mind.
> >>>>> Datastream monitoring is critical for
> addressing this sort of thing.
> >>>>> mv
> >>>>>
> >>>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> From: "James
> Panter" 
> >>>>> <9jim30 at charter.net>
> >>>>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> >>>>> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 7:34 PM
> >>>>> Subject: [Gmecm] 749 ECM
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Hey Guys Is there anyone who has done a small
> block Chev (twin >>>>> 
> >>>>>> turbos @ 8 psi boost) using the $58 program
> that has it tuned?? I 
> >>>>>>  >>>>> have my project running but very rick
> and was hoping to find 
> >>>>>> someone >>>>> who could send me a corrected
> bin or give me line items 
> >>>>>> changes they >>>>> made that worked.
> >>>>>> Thanks for any help--- 
> >>>>>> Jim
> 
=== message truncated ===



From jktucker at usamedia.tv  Fri Mar 16 08:55:03 2007
From: jktucker at usamedia.tv (Jake Tucker)
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 06:55:03 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
Message-ID: <000401c767d2$b3c713f0$0200a8c0@tuckeroffice>

	Well, we're finally getting close to having a vortec injection
transplant running in an '84 Suburban.  We started with a fresh 350 with
vortec heads, and installed a vortec injection setup out of a '97 onto the
motor to replace the TBI system that had been running the motor.  There were
a few setbacks along the way, but now the motor is running and appears to
need just a little tuning.  The main problem now is that it is hunting at
idle.  Engine speed oscillates from 300 to 1000 RPM's for several seconds
before the engine dies.  This is especially a problem when it is cold, and
the engine won't stay running at all without opening the throttle a little.
In general, the engine runs, but doesn't give the power we'd expect at this
point.  It is a '75 block that was rebuilt with Vortec heads.  To do the
vortec conversion, all the sensors, intake, distributer, crank sensor,
harmonic balancer, and accessories were transplanted from a '97 vortec motor
with a cracked block.
	Any ideas what would cause the oscillating problem?  I would like to
watch the IAC motor counts, but I can't seem to find that data on the
software I'm running.  Right now, I'm using car-code 2 which is sold at
www.obd-2.com.  I also have the OBDII tuner by tunercat.  He has since sold
his design to Jet performance.

Jake


From davida1 at hiwaay.net  Sat Mar 17 16:57:19 2007
From: davida1 at hiwaay.net (David Allen)
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 16:57:19 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] Off topic - rear main seal packing
Message-ID: <041f01c768df$3ff86e70$df7aa6a6@yancey.com>

  Hey here's an off-topic post for ya!  I am assembling a Buick 231 V6 which 
has the "rope type" rear main seal.  All the other engines I've assembled 
have been equipped with a lip-style oil seal.  This rope type seal puts a 
serious bind on the crankshaft.  It takes about 30 lb-ft of torque to rotate 
the crankshaft with only the main bearings and rear main seal installed.
  With the seal packing not installed, and the mains torqued the crank will 
rotate freely.  It's the packing causing the drag.  Is this normal, or is 
there a problem with the amount of packing I have installed? The 
instructions say to push the packing in the groove with a socket and shave 
it flush with the cap and block.  I did it this way and everything looks 
good and went toghether smoothly.
  Most older engines had the rope-type seal you guys may be able to tell me 
if this is supposed to cause this much drag?
  Thanks in advance!
David 



From dmumert at telusplanet.net  Sat Mar 17 17:18:40 2007
From: dmumert at telusplanet.net (Dave Mumert)
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 16:18:40 -0600
Subject: [Gmecm] Off topic - rear main seal packing
In-Reply-To: <041f01c768df$3ff86e70$df7aa6a6@yancey.com>
References: <041f01c768df$3ff86e70$df7aa6a6@yancey.com>
Message-ID: <67698D9589414625A184326D797FC6D6@DavePC>

Hi David

I can't help you with the torque issue but here is a site that list 
alternative seals for the 231
http://rebuiltautoengines.com/pontiac-articles.html

Check about half way down the page

Here is a copy of the pertinent line
Engine to       Detroit   Enginetech     FM            ROL 
Victor            Actual
Be repaired 
Application

Buick 231     17200      S-1389       BS-40613     RS-29470    JV-742-V 
Jeep 225

Good Luck

Dave


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
To: "GM-ECM" <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 3:57 PM
Subject: [Gmecm] Off topic - rear main seal packing


>
>
>  Hey here's an off-topic post for ya!  I am assembling a Buick 231 V6 
> which has the "rope type" rear main seal.  All the other engines I've 
> assembled have been equipped with a lip-style oil seal.  This rope type 
> seal puts a serious bind on the crankshaft.  It takes about 30 lb-ft of 
> torque to rotate the crankshaft with only the main bearings and rear main 
> seal installed.
>  With the seal packing not installed, and the mains torqued the crank will 
> rotate freely.  It's the packing causing the drag.  Is this normal, or is 
> there a problem with the amount of packing I have installed? The 
> instructions say to push the packing in the groove with a socket and shave 
> it flush with the cap and block.  I did it this way and everything looks 
> good and went toghether smoothly.
>  Most older engines had the rope-type seal you guys may be able to tell me 
> if this is supposed to cause this much drag?
>  Thanks in advance!
> David
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm
>
> --
> If this email is spam, report it here:
> http://www.OnlyMyEmail.com/reportSpam?Id=NTEzMzA6Mjc3MDUxOTU1OmRtdW1lcnRAdGVsdXNwbGFuZXQubmV0
> 



From davida1 at hiwaay.net  Sat Mar 17 18:16:43 2007
From: davida1 at hiwaay.net (David Allen)
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 18:16:43 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] Off topic - rear main seal packing
References: <041f01c768df$3ff86e70$df7aa6a6@yancey.com>
	<67698D9589414625A184326D797FC6D6@DavePC>
Message-ID: <042801c768ea$649ee780$df7aa6a6@yancey.com>

  THANK YOU That is just what I needed.  Will call around and see what I can 
find.  This engine has leaked slightly from the rear seal since it was new. 
When the car was new, GM said they would install a reman engine to fix this 
leak.  My dad said he would live with the leak instead of having his car 
dismantled to this degree when it was new.
  Good move; this engine lasted 370,000 miles before it needed any major 
service.  The intake gaskets leaked water into #5 so I pulled it down for a 
rebuild.
  Thanks,
David

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Mumert" <dmumert at telusplanet.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Off topic - rear main seal packing


> Hi David
>
> I can't help you with the torque issue but here is a site that list 
> alternative seals for the 231
> http://rebuiltautoengines.com/pontiac-articles.html
>
> Check about half way down the page
>
> Here is a copy of the pertinent line
> Engine to       Detroit   Enginetech     FM            ROL Victor 
> Actual
> Be repaired Application
>
> Buick 231     17200      S-1389       BS-40613     RS-29470    JV-742-V 
> Jeep 225
>
> Good Luck
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
> To: "GM-ECM" <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 3:57 PM
> Subject: [Gmecm] Off topic - rear main seal packing
>
>
>>
>>
>>  Hey here's an off-topic post for ya!  I am assembling a Buick 231 V6 
>> which has the "rope type" rear main seal.  All the other engines I've 
>> assembled have been equipped with a lip-style oil seal.  This rope type 
>> seal puts a serious bind on the crankshaft.  It takes about 30 lb-ft of 
>> torque to rotate the crankshaft with only the main bearings and rear main 
>> seal installed.
>>  With the seal packing not installed, and the mains torqued the crank 
>> will rotate freely.  It's the packing causing the drag.  Is this normal, 
>> or is there a problem with the amount of packing I have installed? The 
>> instructions say to push the packing in the groove with a socket and 
>> shave it flush with the cap and block.  I did it this way and everything 
>> looks good and went toghether smoothly.
>>  Most older engines had the rope-type seal you guys may be able to tell 
>> me if this is supposed to cause this much drag?
>>  Thanks in advance!
>> David
>> _______________________________________________
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>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
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From andrewsharyn at yahoo.com  Sat Mar 17 19:27:14 2007
From: andrewsharyn at yahoo.com (Andrew Gibson)
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 17:27:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 
Message-ID: <687850.38024.qm@web60818.mail.yahoo.com>

Since the swap is on an older block and you are using the same ecm, Chances are you didn't quite get the crank sensor in the same exact spot. A crank learn proceedure must be done. I don't know how to do it without a scan tool. (Athough there is a proceedure floating around out there on how to do it without one) Once that is done you need to set the CMP retard (basically ignition timing but isn't the ignition) this does require a scan tool and you adjust the dist, rev the engine past 1000 rpm, check the reading on the scan tool, adjust again as necessary to get as close to 0 as possible. Once these two items are done it should run a lot better.

 
---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

From bcroe at juno.com  Sat Mar 17 18:49:34 2007
From: bcroe at juno.com (bcroe at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 17:49:34 -0600
Subject: [Gmecm] Off topic - rear main seal packing
Message-ID: <20070317.201411.1032.0.bcroe@juno.com>

That drag will go away as soon as the engine is a little 
broken in.  Bruce Roe

17 Mar 07  "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net> writes:

> I am assembling a Buick 231 V6 which has the "rope type" 
> rear main seal.  All the other engines I've assembled 
> have been equipped with a lip-style oil seal.  This rope 
> type seal puts a serious bind on the crankshaft.  It takes 
> about 30 lb-ft of torque to rotate the crankshaft with only 
> the main bearings and rear main seal installed.


From jktucker at usamedia.tv  Sat Mar 17 21:22:52 2007
From: jktucker at usamedia.tv (Jake Tucker)
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 19:22:52 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 
In-Reply-To: <687850.38024.qm@web60818.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001c76904$55df6d40$0200a8c0@tuckeroffice>

Andrew,
	Thanks for the reply.  I do have a scan tool (car-code), and I have
set the CMP retard to near zero to turn of the check engine light.  What is
the proceedure for doing the crank learn proceedure with a scan tool?

-----Original Message-----
From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf
Of Andrew Gibson
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 5:27 PM
To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 


Since the swap is on an older block and you are using the same ecm, Chances
are you didn't quite get the crank sensor in the same exact spot. A crank
learn proceedure must be done. I don't know how to do it without a scan
tool. (Athough there is a proceedure floating around out there on how to do
it without one) Once that is done you need to set the CMP retard (basically
ignition timing but isn't the ignition) this does require a scan tool and
you adjust the dist, rev the engine past 1000 rpm, check the reading on the
scan tool, adjust again as necessary to get as close to 0 as possible. Once
these two items are done it should run a lot better.

 
---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
_______________________________________________
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Gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
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From playtoy_18 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar 17 23:17:19 2007
From: playtoy_18 at yahoo.com (Edwin leahy)
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 21:17:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 
Message-ID: <83114.8168.qm@web56912.mail.re3.yahoo.com>



Sound's like your IAC can't compensate enough to keep
it idling.This is either from to much fuel or more
than likely the IAC count's are off.Try adjusting them
in small increment's.What software are you using and
what ECM?It is possible to use the 2000+ LS1/LS6 ECM
with that injection/motor.

> Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 06:55:03 -0700
> From: "Jake Tucker" <jktucker at usamedia.tv>
> Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Message-ID:
> <000401c767d2$b3c713f0$0200a8c0 at tuckeroffice>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 	Well, we're finally getting close to having a
> vortec injection
> transplant running in an '84 Suburban.  We started
> with a fresh 350 with
> vortec heads, and installed a vortec injection setup
> out of a '97 onto the
> motor to replace the TBI system that had been
> running the motor.  There were
> a few setbacks along the way, but now the motor is
> running and appears to
> need just a little tuning.  The main problem now is
> that it is hunting at
> idle.  Engine speed oscillates from 300 to 1000
> RPM's for several seconds
> before the engine dies.  This is especially a
> problem when it is cold, and
> the engine won't stay running at all without opening
> the throttle a little.
> In general, the engine runs, but doesn't give the
> power we'd expect at this
> point.  It is a '75 block that was rebuilt with
> Vortec heads.  To do the
> vortec conversion, all the sensors, intake,
> distributer, crank sensor,
> harmonic balancer, and accessories were transplanted
> from a '97 vortec motor
> with a cracked block.
> 	Any ideas what would cause the oscillating problem?
>  I would like to
> watch the IAC motor counts, but I can't seem to find
> that data on the
> software I'm running.  Right now, I'm using car-code
> 2 which is sold at
> www.obd-2.com.  I also have the OBDII tuner by
> tunercat.  He has since sold
> his design to Jet performance.
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> 
> 
> End of Gmecm Digest, Vol 25, Issue 7
> ************************************
> 



 
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From jktucker at usamedia.tv  Sun Mar 18 16:53:11 2007
From: jktucker at usamedia.tv (Kim Tucker)
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 14:53:11 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 
In-Reply-To: <83114.8168.qm@web56912.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001c769a7$d341fac0$0200a8c0@tuckeroffice>

The software I'm using is called car-code for the scan tool.  I also have
tunercat's OBDII tuner software.  Do you have a proceedure on adjusting the
IAC?

-----Original Message-----
From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf
Of Edwin leahy
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 9:17 PM
To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 




Sound's like your IAC can't compensate enough to keep
it idling.This is either from to much fuel or more
than likely the IAC count's are off.Try adjusting them
in small increment's.What software are you using and
what ECM?It is possible to use the 2000+ LS1/LS6 ECM
with that injection/motor.

> Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 06:55:03 -0700
> From: "Jake Tucker" <jktucker at usamedia.tv>
> Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Message-ID:
> <000401c767d2$b3c713f0$0200a8c0 at tuckeroffice>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 	Well, we're finally getting close to having a
> vortec injection
> transplant running in an '84 Suburban.  We started
> with a fresh 350 with
> vortec heads, and installed a vortec injection setup
> out of a '97 onto the
> motor to replace the TBI system that had been
> running the motor.  There were
> a few setbacks along the way, but now the motor is
> running and appears to
> need just a little tuning.  The main problem now is
> that it is hunting at
> idle.  Engine speed oscillates from 300 to 1000
> RPM's for several seconds
> before the engine dies.  This is especially a
> problem when it is cold, and
> the engine won't stay running at all without opening
> the throttle a little.
> In general, the engine runs, but doesn't give the
> power we'd expect at this
> point.  It is a '75 block that was rebuilt with
> Vortec heads.  To do the
> vortec conversion, all the sensors, intake,
> distributer, crank sensor,
> harmonic balancer, and accessories were transplanted
> from a '97 vortec motor
> with a cracked block.
> 	Any ideas what would cause the oscillating problem?
>  I would like to
> watch the IAC motor counts, but I can't seem to find
> that data on the
> software I'm running.  Right now, I'm using car-code
> 2 which is sold at
> www.obd-2.com.  I also have the OBDII tuner by
> tunercat.  He has since sold
> his design to Jet performance.
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> 
> 
> End of Gmecm Digest, Vol 25, Issue 7
> ************************************
> 



 
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From davesnothereman at netscape.net  Sun Mar 18 19:01:15 2007
From: davesnothereman at netscape.net (davesnothereman at netscape.net)
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 20:01:15 -0400
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 
In-Reply-To: <000001c769a7$d341fac0$0200a8c0@tuckeroffice>
Message-ID: <8C937D0D8CFF01C-87C-49BD@FWM-R02.sysops.aol.com>

  Hi, Jake.
 
 If I were checking this problem, I wouldn't suspect the IAC first. Usually changes in spark timing and fuel are responsible for idle hunting. Often the engine is slightly lean at one rpm or load and is not so lean at another. As the MAP signal changes, then engine is less lean, then more lean, then back which causes RPM swings. Additionally the timing will change as load and rpm change which can aggravate the problem. Finally, the IAC will play catch up trying to follow and correct the engine rpm and eventually the fuel / spark / IAC values will match up just right to produce a stall.
 
 I'd try to make sure there are no vacuum leaks and I'd adjust the minimum air (the throttle stop) on the throttle body. Sometimes it helps to temporarily force the idle plate open slightly to get the truck to idle at a steady rpm. Then you can back the idle down and watch your scan software for something to go wrong.
 
 With a '75 block it's safe to say you're not using the Vortec cam. One thing which may help is to adjust the timing tables so there is less change between 20 kPa and 100 kPa at 400 - 800 rpm. Once you get idle stabilized then you can start looking at O2 values to try and judge lean / rich operation.
 
 hth
 Zaphod
    
 -----Original Message-----
 From: jktucker at usamedia.tv
 To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
 Sent: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 4:53 PM
 Subject: RE: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 
 
  The software I'm using is called car-code for the scan tool.  I also have

tunercat's OBDII tuner software.  Do you have a proceedure on adjusting the

IAC?



-----Original Message-----

From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf

Of Edwin leahy

Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 9:17 PM

To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 




Sound's like your IAC can't compensate enough to keep
it idling.This is either from to much fuel or more
than likely the IAC count's are off.Try adjusting them
in small increment's.What software are you using and
what ECM?It is possible to use the 2000+ LS1/LS6 ECM
with that injection/motor.

> Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 06:55:03 -0700
> From: "Jake Tucker" <jktucker at usamedia.tv>

> Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle

> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>

> Message-ID:

> <000401c767d2$b3c713f0$0200a8c0 at tuckeroffice>

> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> 

>   Well, we're finally getting close to having a

> vortec injection

> transplant running in an '84 Suburban.  We started

> with a fresh 350 with

> vortec heads, and installed a vortec injection setup

> out of a '97 onto the

> motor to replace the TBI system that had been

> running the motor.  There were

> a few setbacks along the way, but now the motor is

> running and appears to

> need just a little tuning.  The main problem now is

> that it is hunting at

> idle.  Engine speed oscillates from 300 to 1000

> RPM's for several seconds

> before the engine dies.  This is especially a

> problem when it is cold, and

> the engine won't stay running at all without opening

> the throttle a little.

> In general, the engine runs, but doesn't give the

> power we'd expect at this

> point.  It is a '75 block that was rebuilt with

> Vortec heads.  To do the

> vortec conversion, all the sensors, intake,

> distributer, crank sensor,

> harmonic balancer, and accessories were transplanted

> from a '97 vortec motor

> with a cracked block.

>   Any ideas what would cause the oscillating problem?

>  I would like to

> watch the IAC motor counts, but I can't seem to find

> that data on the

> software I'm running.  Right now, I'm using car-code

> 2 which is sold at

> www.obd-2.com.  I also have the OBDII tuner by

> tunercat.  He has since sold

> his design to Jet performance.

> 

> Jake

> 

> 

> ------------------------------

> 

> _______________________________________________

> Gmecm mailing list

> Gmecm at diy-efi.org http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> 
> 
> End of Gmecm Digest, Vol 25, Issue 7
> ************************************
> 



 
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From andrewsharyn at yahoo.com  Sun Mar 18 23:15:39 2007
From: andrewsharyn at yahoo.com (Andrew Gibson)
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 21:15:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
Message-ID: <194445.37696.qm@web60818.mail.yahoo.com>

The scan tool proceedure is in the functional tests menu. It has you start with the key on engine off, start the engine, then it initiates the learn commnad, and asks you to snap the throttle to get the engine up to the fuel cut out limiter. Then it's done. Takes about 30-45 seconds if your scan tool is capable. Mine is the Mac Mentor (OTC Genisis platform) Gm's OE scan tool of course should be able to do it.
 
---------------------------------
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From darrenfreed at gmail.com  Mon Mar 19 09:58:58 2007
From: darrenfreed at gmail.com (Darren Freed)
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:58:58 +0000
Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
In-Reply-To: <194445.37696.qm@web60818.mail.yahoo.com>
References: <194445.37696.qm@web60818.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <f61eb5c30703190758g4a22230fhdd508b87888a6ee6@mail.gmail.com>

I had the same idle problem with my 3.4 DOHC v6.  This problem occurs
because there is a discrepancy between the desired idle rpm and desired idle
airflow values.  The OBD-II idle algorithm is very different than the OBD-I
algorithm: both desired rpm and desired airflow are used.  If they disagree,
the IAC hunts for an idle speed that will satisfy both criteria.  The only
way to fix the problem is to change the desired airflow and/or rpm tables in
the flashrom.  Hopefully you can do that with OBD-II TunerCat.

HTH,

Darren



On 3/19/07, Andrew Gibson <andrewsharyn at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> The scan tool proceedure is in the functional tests menu. It has you start
> with the key on engine off, start the engine, then it initiates the learn
> commnad, and asks you to snap the throttle to get the engine up to the fuel
> cut out limiter. Then it's done. Takes about 30-45 seconds if your scan tool
> is capable. Mine is the Mac Mentor (OTC Genisis platform) Gm's OE scan tool
> of course should be able to do it.
>
> ---------------------------------
> Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
> Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
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From Steve.Ravet at arm.com  Mon Mar 19 14:29:55 2007
From: Steve.Ravet at arm.com (Steve Ravet)
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 12:29:55 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
In-Reply-To: <f61eb5c30703190758g4a22230fhdd508b87888a6ee6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F2C29ABA4D75714AAFC89187D9D8F2932CB5CA@THUNDERBIRD.usa.Arm.com>

Darren, this mismatch was in your stock calibration?  Or you
inadvertently created a mismatch?  Or the engine was modified from stock
to create the mismatch?

--steve 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org 
> [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Darren Freed
> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 9:59 AM
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
> 
> I had the same idle problem with my 3.4 DOHC v6.  This 
> problem occurs because there is a discrepancy between the 
> desired idle rpm and desired idle airflow values.  The OBD-II 
> idle algorithm is very different than the OBD-I
> algorithm: both desired rpm and desired airflow are used.  If 
> they disagree, the IAC hunts for an idle speed that will 
> satisfy both criteria.  The only way to fix the problem is to 
> change the desired airflow and/or rpm tables in the flashrom. 
>  Hopefully you can do that with OBD-II TunerCat.
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Darren
> 

-- 
IMPORTANT NOTICE: The contents of this email and any attachments are confidential and may also be privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately and do not disclose the contents to any other person, use it for any purpose, or store or copy the information in any medium.  Thank you.




From darrenfreed at gmail.com  Mon Mar 19 14:58:27 2007
From: darrenfreed at gmail.com (Darren Freed)
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 19:58:27 +0000
Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
In-Reply-To: <F2C29ABA4D75714AAFC89187D9D8F2932CB5CA@THUNDERBIRD.usa.Arm.com>
References: <f61eb5c30703190758g4a22230fhdd508b87888a6ee6@mail.gmail.com>
	<F2C29ABA4D75714AAFC89187D9D8F2932CB5CA@THUNDERBIRD.usa.Arm.com>
Message-ID: <f61eb5c30703191258n5fac86c9vc39f347c8d14d8e8@mail.gmail.com>

I didn't have a 3.4 DOHC calibration, so I started with a 3.1 and went from
there (I've only recently managed to get a 1997 3.4 DOHC PCM off ebay).  In
addition, I changed the cam timing, which obviously didn't help.  Any
modification that affects airflow will affect the idle.  Getting the idle
right on an OBD-II PCM can be a real challenge, especially when you've got
as heavily a modified setup as mine.  I suppose I should write an article
for the wiki...  I'll add that to my to-do list!

Darren


On 3/19/07, Steve Ravet <Steve.Ravet at arm.com> wrote:
>
> Darren, this mismatch was in your stock calibration?  Or you
> inadvertently created a mismatch?  Or the engine was modified from stock
> to create the mismatch?
>
> --steve
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org
> > [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Darren Freed
> > Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 9:59 AM
> > To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
> >
> > I had the same idle problem with my 3.4 DOHC v6.  This
> > problem occurs because there is a discrepancy between the
> > desired idle rpm and desired idle airflow values.  The OBD-II
> > idle algorithm is very different than the OBD-I
> > algorithm: both desired rpm and desired airflow are used.  If
> > they disagree, the IAC hunts for an idle speed that will
> > satisfy both criteria.  The only way to fix the problem is to
> > change the desired airflow and/or rpm tables in the flashrom.
> >  Hopefully you can do that with OBD-II TunerCat.
> >
> > HTH,
> >
> > Darren
> >
>
> --
> IMPORTANT NOTICE: The contents of this email and any attachments are
> confidential and may also be privileged. If you are not the intended
> recipient, please notify the sender immediately and do not disclose the
> contents to any other person, use it for any purpose, or store or copy the
> information in any medium.  Thank you.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
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From lwester at lincsat.com  Mon Mar 19 21:00:11 2007
From: lwester at lincsat.com (Programmer)
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 20:00:11 -0600
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
References: <000401c767d2$b3c713f0$0200a8c0@tuckeroffice>
Message-ID: <003a01c76a97$c207de50$0200a8c0@WESTER2>

Could be a couple things:

1. What did you end up using for spark plugs ?
2. Is the MAF clean ?
3. Fuel pressure is absolutely critical on this baby.

There is NO crank relearn on this one.

Lyndon.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jake Tucker" <jktucker at usamedia.tv>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 7:55 AM
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle


> Well, we're finally getting close to having a vortec injection
> transplant running in an '84 Suburban.  We started with a fresh 350 with
> vortec heads, and installed a vortec injection setup out of a '97 onto the
> motor to replace the TBI system that had been running the motor.  There 
> were
> a few setbacks along the way, but now the motor is running and appears to
> need just a little tuning.  The main problem now is that it is hunting at
> idle.  Engine speed oscillates from 300 to 1000 RPM's for several seconds
> before the engine dies.  This is especially a problem when it is cold, and
> the engine won't stay running at all without opening the throttle a 
> little.
> In general, the engine runs, but doesn't give the power we'd expect at 
> this
> point.  It is a '75 block that was rebuilt with Vortec heads.  To do the
> vortec conversion, all the sensors, intake, distributer, crank sensor,
> harmonic balancer, and accessories were transplanted from a '97 vortec 
> motor
> with a cracked block.
> Any ideas what would cause the oscillating problem?  I would like to
> watch the IAC motor counts, but I can't seem to find that data on the
> software I'm running.  Right now, I'm using car-code 2 which is sold at
> www.obd-2.com.  I also have the OBDII tuner by tunercat.  He has since 
> sold
> his design to Jet performance.
>
> Jake
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
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From mrcad472 at iowatelecom.net  Tue Mar 20 14:48:24 2007
From: mrcad472 at iowatelecom.net (Scott Pearson)
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 14:48:24 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
References: <194445.37696.qm@web60818.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00cc01c76b28$b8ef41a0$6401a8c0@DELL3G>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Gibson" <andrewsharyn at yahoo.com>

> The scan tool proceedure is in the functional tests menu. It has you start 
> with the key on engine off, start the engine, then it initiates the learn 
> commnad, and asks you to snap the throttle to get the engine up to the 
> fuel cut out limiter. Then it's done. Takes about 30-45 seconds if your 
> scan tool is capable. Mine is the Mac Mentor (OTC Genisis platform) Gm's 
> OE scan tool of course should be able to do it.
>

That is a problem on OTC's end. With the Tech 2, as soon as it reaches the 
desired RPM point (~4000RPM), it will cut out. The Genisys likes to bounce 
it off the rev limiter for that 30-45 seconds. Btw, last time I tried the 
Genisys will not do a relearn on an LS1. Bouncing off a 6200 rev limiter 
sitting still is not the way I like to find out.

Scott 





From mrcad472 at iowatelecom.net  Tue Mar 20 14:50:01 2007
From: mrcad472 at iowatelecom.net (Scott Pearson)
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 14:50:01 -0500
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
References: <000401c767d2$b3c713f0$0200a8c0@tuckeroffice>
	<003a01c76a97$c207de50$0200a8c0@WESTER2>
Message-ID: <00d101c76b28$f2da86e0$6401a8c0@DELL3G>

> Could be a couple things:
>
> 1. What did you end up using for spark plugs ?
> 2. Is the MAF clean ?
> 3. Fuel pressure is absolutely critical on this baby.
>
> There is NO crank relearn on this one.
>
> Lyndon.

Yeah, 98 or so was the first year for relearn.

Try running it w/o MAF? Sets a CEL, but they'll run.

Scott 





From andrewsharyn at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 21 14:04:29 2007
From: andrewsharyn at yahoo.com (Andrew Gibson)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:04:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Vortec L31 oscillating at idle 
Message-ID: <666515.39480.qm@web60816.mail.yahoo.com>

>That is a problem on OTC's end. With the Tech 2, as soon as it reaches the desired RPM >point (~4000RPM), it will cut out. The Genisys likes to bounce it off the rev limiter for that >30-45 seconds. Btw, last time I tried the Genisys will not do a relearn on an LS1. Bouncing >off a 6200 rev limiter sitting still is not the way I like to find out.

>Scott 

I've only tried it on the 7.4 and 5.7L trucks. Both did the learn as soon as it hit 4250 rpm which is the cutout in neutral. It took me longer to find the prceedure in the scan tool than to actually do it. Next time you do the relearn on one snap the throttle and let off just as the RPM crosses the cutout threshold. It should get the relearn immediately. As I recall the learn actually happens on the decel from the snap. Which is why it would take longer bouncing off the rpm limiter.
   
  Andrew

 
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From dennysweet at charter.net  Wed Mar 21 20:37:37 2007
From: dennysweet at charter.net (Denny)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 18:37:37 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
References: <000401c767d2$b3c713f0$0200a8c0@tuckeroffice>
	<003a01c76a97$c207de50$0200a8c0@WESTER2>
Message-ID: <004601c76c22$aecbace0$2e02a8c0@dennyhuyir5nuj>

Hey programmer is ford ecm easy to do?


From jktucker at usamedia.tv  Wed Mar 21 19:42:54 2007
From: jktucker at usamedia.tv (Jake Tucker)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 17:42:54 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
In-Reply-To: <004601c76c22$aecbace0$2e02a8c0@dennyhuyir5nuj>
Message-ID: <000001c76c1b$0893f6e0$0200a8c0@tuckeroffice>

All,
	I appreciate all the help.  We've been checking for the obvious,
vacuum leaks, wiring issues, etc. and haven't found anything yet.  Leaving
on vacation tomorrow, so I'll get back to this on Monday.

Thanks,
	Jake Tucker

-----Original Message-----
From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf
Of Denny
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:38 PM
To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle


Hey programmer is ford ecm easy to do?
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From lwester at lincsat.com  Thu Mar 22 14:41:13 2007
From: lwester at lincsat.com (Programmer)
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 13:41:13 -0600
Subject: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle
References: <000401c767d2$b3c713f0$0200a8c0@tuckeroffice><003a01c76a97$c207de50$0200a8c0@WESTER2>
	<004601c76c22$aecbace0$2e02a8c0@dennyhuyir5nuj>
Message-ID: <000e01c76cba$141780f0$0200a8c0@WESTER2>

Relatively, yes.

Lyndon.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Denny" <dennysweet at charter.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Vortec L31 oscillating at idle


> Hey programmer is ford ecm easy to do?
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm


From romans at starstream.net  Sun Mar 25 11:51:33 2007
From: romans at starstream.net (Mark Romans)
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 09:51:33 -0700
Subject: [Gmecm] Gmecm 90-91 Speed Density ECM tuning in Las Vegas??? Anyone
	good?
References: <666515.39480.qm@web60816.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000601c76efd$d9b4e240$6801a8c0@fci9bo2ay5h5y8>

I just had a guy call me from Las Vegas, referral from a friend, who wants 
someone to help him tune his 4WD truck in Las Vegas with a 90 Speed Density 
TPI in it.
Anyone in Las Vegas who can help this guy out?  He told me he'd pay me to 
fly down, (No way)!  Too much crap to haul along!

Anyway, if anyone in Las Vegas (Or near by) can help this guy, email me and 
I'll give you his contact information.

Mark 



From Rexdina at aol.com  Sun Mar 25 12:17:54 2007
From: Rexdina at aol.com (Rexdina at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 13:17:54 EDT
Subject: [Gmecm] Gmecm 90-91 Speed Density ECM tuning in Las Vegas???
	Anyone good?
Message-ID: <c56.10f99ea9.333808c2@aol.com>

Might have your friend give a call to the Rust Bullet guys. Believe they're  
in Vegas. At least they should know the car guys. Also, there's some kind of  
annual car meet coming up for street cars in Vegas soon. Have him go to it and 
 ask around, Can't recall the name but my Phoenix friend goes each year.
Harry



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