From zero_system_0_0 at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 11 03:42:07 2005
From: zero_system_0_0 at yahoo.com (Heero Yuy)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 01:42:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Wbo2] Cal R
Message-ID: <20050611084207.8607.qmail@web53610.mail.yahoo.com>

Is where ? how does it work any text info on it. Can
someone point me in the right direction.


		
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From russellh911 at comcast.net  Sat Jun 11 15:08:35 2005
From: russellh911 at comcast.net (Russ Hildebrand)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 13:08:35 -0700
Subject: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running
Message-ID: <01C56E86.AD700580.russellh911@comcast.net>

Hi All:

I have the kit all assembled and have successfully run through the test 
procedures. Everything's fine until I attach the sensor, then no LED comes 
on. I have 12.6 volts at the htr + connection J3

 I have the L2H2 sensor so I have the following setup:

 Heater circuit
J2 - yellow to sensor
J1 - blue to sensor - 10.35 volts

UEGO
J7 - black - 3.99v
J6 - White - 3.91v
J5 - Red - 5.91v

The crossover info I was given for the Honda sensor v the L2H2 wiring is

connection	Honda	L2H2
	J2	yellow	yellow
	J1	orange	blue
	J7	black	black
	J6	white	white
	J5	red	red

Any ideas what might be keeping the system from heating up? I'm a real 
rookie at this stuff, so your help is sure appreciated.

Thanks,

Russ Hildebrand



From tmarstei at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 11 15:46:47 2005
From: tmarstei at yahoo.com (Tim Marsteiner)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 13:46:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running
In-Reply-To: <01C56E86.AD700580.russellh911@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20050611204647.19684.qmail@web30215.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

What regulator do you have?

The LT1086 requires a 12.7 v input (J3) while the
LM317 requires 13.5 v input(J3).

The 10.35 might be just a shade too low to turn on the
LED.


Tim


--- Russ Hildebrand <russellh911 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi All:
> 
> I have the kit all assembled and have successfully
> run through the test 
> procedures. Everything's fine until I attach the
> sensor, then no LED comes 
> on. I have 12.6 volts at the htr + connection J3
> 
>  I have the L2H2 sensor so I have the following
> setup:
> 
>  Heater circuit
> J2 - yellow to sensor
> J1 - blue to sensor - 10.35 volts
> 
> UEGO
> J7 - black - 3.99v
> J6 - White - 3.91v
> J5 - Red - 5.91v
> 
> The crossover info I was given for the Honda sensor
> v the L2H2 wiring is
> 
> connection	Honda	L2H2
> 	J2	yellow	yellow
> 	J1	orange	blue
> 	J7	black	black
> 	J6	white	white
> 	J5	red	red
> 
> Any ideas what might be keeping the system from
> heating up? I'm a real 
> rookie at this stuff, so your help is sure
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Russ Hildebrand
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Wbo2 mailing list
> Wbo2 at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/wbo2
> 


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From zero_system_0_0 at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 11 23:03:01 2005
From: zero_system_0_0 at yahoo.com (Heero Yuy)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 21:03:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Wbo2] A BETTER QUESTION
Message-ID: <20050612040301.63671.qmail@web53608.mail.yahoo.com>

I really should rephrase my question I have the L2H2.
I have run thru the tests and the board comes out
fine. It is only until you attach the L2H2 that the
LED does not come on. Now I know the wires are
different
Yellow-Yellow/Orange-Blue/Black-Black/White-White/Red-Grey.
Now I have read that the CalR is ?the cal resistor is
10x the resistor found in the NTK L1H1.  You need to
measure the cal resistor, divide by 10, and replace
with a substitute."
  Which resistor on my diy-wb --PCB (version #7) do I
change?
If I understand this correctly I change rcal # pin 9
from 270 ohms to 27 ohms? Or do you replace the rcal @
the sensor with a new resistor?  Ex:  if it measures
1200K ohms@ the sensor replace with 120Kohms?

Then I get the email 
What regulator do you have?
The LT1086 requires a 12.7 v input (J3) while the
LM317 requires 13.5 v input(J3).
The 10.35 might be just a shade too low to turn on the
LED.

So what do I do?
Do I change the LT1086 to the LM317 or change the CalR
Resistor?
What is the CalR?


Thanx,
	Zero_System
	84 Rabbit G60


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From tmarstei at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 11 23:08:17 2005
From: tmarstei at yahoo.com (Tim Marsteiner)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 21:08:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running
In-Reply-To: <01C56EB8.160CC2A0.russellh911@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20050612040817.9407.qmail@web30209.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Russ, 

In order for the circuit to work the way it is the
input must be equal to or above 12.7 volts. 

Why are you only getting 12.15 v? Is this in a vehicle
or are you trying to debug with a weak power supply?

If it is for a car you should have an input voltage
above 12.7.

BTW do not plug your sensor into a already powered up
circuit. The heater voltage ramps up when you first
power on the circuit for a reason. If you heat up the
sensor too fast you run the risk of cracking the
sensor element. The voltage should ramp up from ~5v to
10.5 v over a period of 45+ seconds.

Tim

--- Russ Hildebrand <russellh911 at comcast.net> wrote:

> OK, I added the 100k resistor to R9. That got me to
> 12.48 at J3 and 10.48 
> at J1 without the sensor attached. The LED pops
> right up and on. As soon as 
> I attach the L2H2, the LED goes out and doesn't come
> back. (I've gone about 
> 90 seconds with things powered)
> 
> With the sensor attached, J1 is down to 10.05v and
> J3 is down to 12.15v.
> 
> Any other ideas?
> 
> I sure appreciate the help, I would have no clue
> what to do.
> 
> Russ
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Tim Marsteiner [SMTP:tmarstei at yahoo.com]
> Sent:	Saturday, June 11, 2005 4:18 PM
> To:	russellh911 at comcast.net
> Subject:	RE: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running
> 
> My heater voltage was a little low as well, so I put
> a
> 68k in parallel with R9. It is now 10.51 v. You may
> want to start with 100k.
> 
> 
> --- Russ Hildebrand <russellh911 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> > LT1086, I have 12.62v at J3
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________
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From russellh911 at comcast.net  Sun Jun 12 13:05:52 2005
From: russellh911 at comcast.net (Russ Hildebrand)
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 11:05:52 -0700
Subject: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running
Message-ID: <01C56F3E.B33CF820.russellh911@comcast.net>

I may have missed something here. I see the post from Heero who seems to be 
stuck at the same point I am. He is talking about a resistor change that's 
needed if you're running the L2H2.

Now I have read that the CalR is "the cal resistor is
10x the resistor found in the NTK L1H1.  You need to
measure the cal resistor, divide by 10, and replace
with a substitute."
  Which resistor on my diy-wb --PCB (version #7) do I
change?
If I understand this correctly I change rcal # pin 9
from 270 ohms to 27 ohms? Or do you replace the rcal @
the sensor with a new resistor?  Ex:  if it measures
1200K ohms@ the sensor replace with 120Kohms?


I didn't make any change, so is that the issue?

-----Original Message-----
From:	Tim Marsteiner [SMTP:tmarstei at yahoo.com]
Sent:	Saturday, June 11, 2005 10:07 PM
To:	russellh911 at comcast.net
Subject:	RE: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running


--- Russ Hildebrand <russellh911 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Tim:
>
> I'm working on this on the bench with a 12 volt
> power supply, not in the
> car. I had this all in the car and it didn't work,
> so I took it back out
> this morning and I've been messing with it. I've
> only had 12.6 volts
> supplied at the max at any on time, so that might be
> the fundamental
> problem. With my test bench power supply, I start
> with 12.6 without the
> sensor, but when I attach the sensor the voltage
> drops.


It takes a fairly beefy power supply to drive this on
the bench. Remember it draws up to 1.5 A.


> I read what you
> said about plugging into a powered up circuit, so I
> won't do that again.
> You said the voltage should ramp up, is that as
> measured at J1?


Yes, J1 the heater+ voltage.


> I think I'll put this back in the car tomorrow and
> see if I can get more
> than 12.7 volts feeding the circuit and see if it
> comes on. I'll let you
> know.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Russ



		
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From tmarstei at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 12 13:47:57 2005
From: tmarstei at yahoo.com (Tim Marsteiner)
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 11:47:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running
In-Reply-To: <01C56F3E.B33CF820.russellh911@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20050612184757.37031.qmail@web30201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have the L1H1 with a resistor in the connector. It
works fine.

You will have to search the archives, but I thought
this was just an option if you did not want to use the
connector that came with the sensor since the other
side of the connector is sometimes hard to find.

Either way your 12.15 volt input is definitely a
problem.


--- Russ Hildebrand <russellh911 at comcast.net> wrote:

> I may have missed something here. I see the post
> from Heero who seems to be 
> stuck at the same point I am. He is talking about a
> resistor change that's 
> needed if you're running the L2H2.
> 
> Now I have read that the CalR is "the cal resistor
> is
> 10x the resistor found in the NTK L1H1.  You need to
> measure the cal resistor, divide by 10, and replace
> with a substitute."
>   Which resistor on my diy-wb --PCB (version #7) do
> I
> change?
> If I understand this correctly I change rcal # pin 9
> from 270 ohms to 27 ohms? Or do you replace the rcal
> @
> the sensor with a new resistor?  Ex:  if it measures
> 1200K ohms@ the sensor replace with 120Kohms?
> 
> 
> I didn't make any change, so is that the issue?
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Tim Marsteiner [SMTP:tmarstei at yahoo.com]
> Sent:	Saturday, June 11, 2005 10:07 PM
> To:	russellh911 at comcast.net
> Subject:	RE: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running
> 
> 
> --- Russ Hildebrand <russellh911 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> > Tim:
> >
> > I'm working on this on the bench with a 12 volt
> > power supply, not in the
> > car. I had this all in the car and it didn't work,
> > so I took it back out
> > this morning and I've been messing with it. I've
> > only had 12.6 volts
> > supplied at the max at any on time, so that might
> be
> > the fundamental
> > problem. With my test bench power supply, I start
> > with 12.6 without the
> > sensor, but when I attach the sensor the voltage
> > drops.
> 
> 
> It takes a fairly beefy power supply to drive this
> on
> the bench. Remember it draws up to 1.5 A.
> 
> 
> > I read what you
> > said about plugging into a powered up circuit, so
> I
> > won't do that again.
> > You said the voltage should ramp up, is that as
> > measured at J1?
> 
> 
> Yes, J1 the heater+ voltage.
> 
> 
> > I think I'll put this back in the car tomorrow and
> > see if I can get more
> > than 12.7 volts feeding the circuit and see if it
> > comes on. I'll let you
> > know.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Russ
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________
> Discover Yahoo!
> Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news and
> more. Check it out!
> http://discover.yahoo.com/mobile.html
> 
> 


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From bcroe at juno.com  Sun Jun 12 22:10:36 2005
From: bcroe at juno.com (bcroe at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 22:10:36 -0500
Subject: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running
Message-ID: <20050612.221047.1036.0.bcroe@juno.com>

Make sure your supply near 14 volts.  When you turn on 
power, you should immediately see 1.25 volts across 
R4, the big 1 ohm.  This should remain steady while 
the voltage to the heater (J1 to J2) slowly rises from 
about 4 volts to about 10.2 volts.  At that point the 10.2 
volts should stabilize, the LED should come on, and 
the voltage across R4 should eventually decrease at 
least 10%.  If it doesn't decrease enough, add 2 or 3 
15 ohm 1/4 watt resistors in parallel with R4.  

You need the anti oscillation cap to stabilize the circuit.  
That is a 0.01 to 0.1 ufd ceramic added across pins 
1 and 3 of D5.  There are a few other things that can 
be done to improve the dynamic response of the unit, 
which tends to overshoot.   Bruce Roe

> > --- Russ Hildebrand <russellh911 at comcast.net> wrote:

> > > I'm working on this on the bench with a 12 volt
> > > power supply, not in the car. I had this all in the car 
> > > and it didn't work, so I took it back out this 
> > > morning and I've been messing with it. I've
> > > only had 12.6 volts supplied at the max at any 
> > > on time, so that might be the fundamental problem. 
> > > With my test bench power supply, I start with 12.6 
> > > without the sensor, but when I attach the sensor the 
> > > voltage drops.


From russellh911 at comcast.net  Sun Jun 12 22:14:36 2005
From: russellh911 at comcast.net (Russ Hildebrand)
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 20:14:36 -0700
Subject: [Wbo2] Finally got it working
Message-ID: <01C56F8B.5B98B940.russellh911@comcast.net>

Hi All:

I now have my system up and running. Thanks to Tim Marsteiner or I'd still 
be scratching my head.  I have the LT1086 regulator and the L2H2 sensor. I 
needed to add 4 of the extra resistors in the kit in parallel with the big 
R4 resistor and added a 100k 1/4W resistor across R9. I was testing on the 
bench with 12.6 volts which just wasn't enough to heat the system. In the 
car, I found the system needs 14 v to actually heat the sensor and get 
things working.

I did a static run in the car with integrals of 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 4000 rpm, 
5000rpm, and 6000rpm at 15 seconds at each rpm level. I have a Race 
Technology's DL-90 data logger and input the data from the DIY-WB board to 
the data logger. Worked like a champ.

I'm going to take a drive and get some data with the car under load later 
in the week.

Later and Thanks,

Russ



From rustdogbrown at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 27 14:23:23 2005
From: rustdogbrown at yahoo.com (William Browning)
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 12:23:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Wbo2] new member
Message-ID: <20050627192323.94945.qmail@web51510.mail.yahoo.com>

Hi,
 
I am new to the email list and will be building my controller soon.  I have ordered the LCD display, but not the controller.  I have tried several times to contact the website about ordering information but have yet to get a reply.  Ideally, I would like to have a PCB and a parts kit, but if nobody is offering them I can build it from scratch.  Any suggestions?
 
Regards,
Rusty
(Just another Mech-E trying to be a Spark-E)
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From onomeomene at hotmail.com  Tue Jun 28 01:44:10 2005
From: onomeomene at hotmail.com (onome omene)
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 00:44:10 -0600
Subject: [Wbo2] problem with heater circuit
Message-ID: <BAY108-F34C951194051FE6D19063CC5E10@phx.gbl>

i am having problems with my heater circuit. i performed all the check on 
the website and everything checks out, until i get to the heater circuit. As 
soon as i power up the circuit the led comes on in step 34. The voltage 
instantly drops to -3.4 volts, would that mean that my c10 is no good?, not 
holding charge? and step 36 nothing happens
also is there anyway for me to get all of the archieved posts?
Thanks for the help
Onome Omene




From bcroe at juno.com  Tue Jun 28 20:14:23 2005
From: bcroe at juno.com (bcroe at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 20:14:23 -0500
Subject: [Wbo2] problem with heater circuit
Message-ID: <20050628.205902.1172.2.bcroe@juno.com>

When you apply power (at least 13 volts), you should 
observe 1.25 volts across the big 1 ohm R4.  The 
voltage across J1-J2 should start around 4 volts and 
rise over half a minute to 10.2 volts.  At than point 
this voltage will stabilize, and the voltage across R4 
should gradually decrease 5 % to 10%.  If it doesn't 
decrease, add some 15 ohm 1/4 watt resistors in 
parallel with R4 to get near 10%.  

If you haven't already, add the heater ckt anti oscillation 
capacitor, any .01 to .1 cap connected to D5 pins 1 & 3.  

Bruce Roe


28 Jun 2005  "onome omene" <onomeomene at hotmail.com> writes:
> i am having problems with my heater circuit. i performed all the 
> check on 
> the website and everything checks out, until i get to the heater 
> circuit. As 
> soon as i power up the circuit the led comes on in step 34. The 
> voltage 
> instantly drops to -3.4 volts, would that mean that my c10 is no 
> good?, not 
> holding charge? and step 36 nothing happens
> also is there anyway for me to get all of the archieved posts?

> Onome Omene