FW: wiring harness ?

[Terry Martin]

> From:  alford-jw
> Sent:  Friday, October 17, 1997 2:59 PM
> To:  diy_efi
> Subject:  wiring harness ?
> 
> I just can't bring myself to pay $300-$400 for a TBI wiring harness, I
> don't have access to
> the stuff most of you guys do to change the chip to stop it from looking
> for the
> sensors I'm not using. Is there anybody or any place that I could send
> my chip
> to or any easy way to stop the error codes from coming up ?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Jack Alford
> jalford at off-road.com
> 

I'd be happy to burn practically anything you need, but my need is info.
I'm jumping in here blind, so I don't know what ecm you have. I can do
cal-paks and the PROM's in the stupid plastic holder, (there's a name
for it but I forgot and can't be bothered.) Stupid plastic holder is
good enough. Later model VCM's or VCM-A ,(ABS built in), I haven't got
to yet. The PROMs are on board.

Now if someone sent me a bin with the appropriate changes, (preferrably
the entire bitmap, grin), and you send me the calpak or prom whatever,
I'd be happy to burn it. 

I'se a relative newbie to e-motive, but uv type eproms are such old
technology, I even have a burner left over from my life as an alarm tech
around 15 - 20yrs ago. They came out with them around the time analog
alarm controls went on the scrap heap. 

Anyhoo, I'll trade burn-ins for data anytime.

Terry

BTW, it might be way more complicated than keeping error codes from
coming up. There may be an error mask flag to be set, or it might not
even be possible. If the processor makes a call for data that isn't
there, it may set an invalid prom error.

I saw the post recommending soldered splicing & heatshrink. If you want
to do it right, find a control cable supplier with short ends of cable
spools, and see if you can get about 20' of #18 stranded color coded,
(not twisted pair), multi-cable (20 conductors or more). I might even
have that if I wanted to spend a day looking for it. Slide the heat
shrink on before you make the splice, and cut half the strands off each
splice end. Use a neat in-line twist and hot but minimum solder. Coat
the splice with Dow Corning silicone (no cheap substitutes), and heat
shrink it with the silicone still unset. You can submerge a splice like
that in salt water, and it'll live forever. Cut the heat shrink to lap
at least 1/2 inch over each end of the splice, and use the right size.
Shrink it with hot air like from an electric paint stripper, not a
flame, and do not overshrink it.