fuel filter fittings

[Eric Schumacher]

Hi Group
I've done quite a few of these kind of swaps and being both frugal and a
habitual frequenter of both DIY auto junk yards and surplus (aerospace)
stores here in LA, I have evolved a technique for dealing with this problem.
I use it for both fuel and (believe it or not) brake lines. Basically the
method consists of either splicing new ends on the lines or splicing
opposite halves of two fittings, each with a desired end, together.  I use
silver solder because it is very compatible with brass, steel and SS. 

I don't have any ideas for plastic and aluminum other than compression
fittings. Another list poster denigrated them harshly but I observe that
they have been very commonly used in marine fuel applications for years.

In the case of a fuel line you get the last few inches or maybe a foot or
two of a line that has an end that matches the component, like the filter in
the case at hand, and trim off the end of the line that is in the car. Make
a short thin sleeve, I like stainless, that is a snug fit over the two lines
to be spliced.  Before splicing slide a length of heat shrink tube over the
line in the car. Sweat everything together with silver solder. In a lap
joint of this type it is extremely strong. After cleaning the flux off slide
the HS tubing up to cover the joint and shrink.

In the case of fittings I cut them in half, take the desired ends and splice
them together. These should fit into each and not be a but joint. Silver
solder together. Before I had a lathe I used to machine them in a drill
press using a file. Just Make them fit together snugly. An easy way to
dissolve the fluoride based flux is boil the fitting in water. If you could
nickel plate them they would like they came from earl's.

Another related thing I have done is to buy surplus made up stainless lines,
chop off the end and silver solder on metric banjo fittings or whatever is
required to interface with Bosch FI systems. The result is slick and cheap.  

I have a question regarding using these techniques on brake lines. Perhaps a
metallurgist out there can offer some insight. I worry, just a little bit,
that heating the steel brake lines to silver-soldering temperatures anneals
them, making them subject to the kinds of problems you get into if copper
lines are used in a hydraulic system. The copper work hardens and
crystallizes. Insights requested.
Lotsa Luck Eric
85 GTI with VR6 power