Volvo CFI system

[Greg Hermann]

>> If the injector O-ring seals leak you get high HCs and rough idle.
>
>>> the old Volvo 240 (1977)
>
>'Nother thing - At 250K your valve stem seals are worn out - You
>may not be using much oil, but it does'nt take much. Worn seals
>are also a source of unmetered air and can produce the same
>symptoms - You can change the seals by removing the cam (replace
>timing belt while you're at it), pressurizing the cyl with shop
>air so the valves stay put, & removing the valve spring with tool
>designed for same (K-D makes a good one). There are valve seal
>pliers designed for the job, or you can fake it in various ways.
>Main thing is not to drop a valve into the cyl! If you don't feel
>up to it take it to a pro - Anybody old enough to have worked on
>early VW water-cooled has done this a thousand times :)
>Check all crankcase vacuum seals - Any unmetered air boogers things
>up. I have seen motors which
>would'nt pass smog because the dipstick seal leaked.
>
>Off-topic, but pertinent to hi-mileage aspirations - Check compression
>frequently so when the ex valve starts to go you catch it before
>overheating and bent head.
>Goes without saying that you are changing your anti-freeze regularly,
>or are employing some other anti-corrosion scheme. Many motors done
>in by galvanic corrosion...
>I have seen very few of these motors actually worn out - Vast majority
>are cooling failures, or run out of oil.
>
>Good luck, Jack

Prestone makes "inhibitor replenishers in a bottle" which works pretty well
instead of changing glycol. The name on the jug is not obvious, I suppose
because they do not wish to cannibalize their glycol sales. Know I have
seen it on the shelves at Wally World (otherwise known as Mall Wart).

Regards, Greg