heat sinks and alt repair question
T Hergen
thergen at svn.net
Mon Sep 21 19:10:09 GMT 1998
Any recommendation on a heat sink compound (brand name if possible) that
won't run or dry out over time? I wasn't happy with some stuff I got
at the Shack (no surprise).
Thanks,
Tom
On Mon, 21 Sep 1998 Terry_Sare at dell.com wrote:
> You will fry the diodes if you do NOT use heat sink compound, period. The HS
> grease lowers the thermal resistance of the metal to metal contact. There is
> plenty of metal to metal to conduct the current. If you think there is a
> contact problem, measure it with a good DVM between the diode and the case.
> Should be almost 0.
>
> Again -- do not skip the heat sink compound.
>
> ts
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: JRECPA at aol.com [SMTP:JRECPA at aol.com]
> > Sent: Monday, September 21, 1998 11:28 AM
> > To: diy_efi at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject: Re: heat sinks and alt repair qiuestion
> >
> > In a message dated 9/21/98 9:12:19 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
> > rbraun at mail.enter.net writes:
> >
> > << The alt on my '91 GTA just puked, it's a CS-130 105 amp, I got it all
> > apart and the way I see it the diode package grounds to the case
> > through the heat sink compound. I'm thinking the poor ground thus
> > created is adding to the heat of the diode pack and helping to
> > cause them to fail. Should I leave heat sink compound off
> > entirely?, or at the end where the output term connects? or add a
> > ground wire?
> >
> > The base of the d-pack is 3/32" thick copper plate which mounts to
> > the alum case of the alt. Would a copper to alum. mount
> > transfer electric and heat better with or without the heat sink goo?
> >
> > Any EE's want to give opinions?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Randy Braun rbraun at enter.net
> > 91 GTA
> > 82 Firebird
> > >>
> > Be sure to put plenty of heat sink compound back on the diode pack.
> >
> > I'll bet that your alternator's back is blocked buy engine components
> > that is why the diode pack is overheating, no air flow!
> >
> > James
>
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