Frederic's radiator cooled intercooler.

[d houlton x0710]

Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> make tuning a turbocharged EFI motor easier.
> 
> > octane though, I get detonation about 6 psi.  I'd prefer not to pay the
> 
> One of the things you can do/try, worked for me on the Buick V6 motor, was to
> ceramic coat the piston tops up to the first ring groove, as well as the
> combustion chambers.  All you need is a toaster oven, "Techline" from summit

If I ever end up re-building the engine I will be doing this as well.  It's
my only vehicle so I can't really tear it down to this extent just yet.  I
did use the Techline coatings inside and out on the exhaust manifold and
turbine scroll housing though to help keep underhood temps down.  I do 
believe that these are very effective coatings.  BTW, I pulled the turbo
back off after about 1000 miles for an inspection and the coating is very
solid with no hint of peeling or flaking inside or out.


> can withstand.  The final version was a "Y" at both radiator inlet/outlet ports,
> with a 120V pump on the cold side pumping up the hose to the intercooler, to a
> peterson 3 gallon swirl tank, then back into the radiator directly via another

What's a swirl tank?  If it just "swirls" the water, why?


> "Y".  I don't know if this is ideal or not, but it did work at least in a basic
> sense.  The next step is to figure out how to remove the 120V pump, and use
> either an externally mounted belt driven pump, or preferably, the water pump.

On my engine, the output of the water pump is internal to the block.  Is
this pretty typical?  Is there any way of tapping either the pump housing 
or the block close to the pump to get a high pressure source of water (that
hopefully hasn't been heated much yet by the block)?


> Fangling a seperate tank and resivoir tank is actually not that big of a deal.
> Make or buy a metal box of approximately the size you figure out to be
> appropriate, mount a sailboat sump pump (metal one) inside.  Its a bottom
> feeding pump so it has one hose outlet, and that's it.  Attach that to your air
> to water intercooler in front of your vehicle, then to the intake plenum
> intercooler, then feed that into the top of the tank.  Think about it as a giant
> fish tank filter.  And sailboat sump pumps are not that expensive.... 40-50
> bucks and they run on 12V of course.

Do you happen to have a 'net source for the pumps?  This is what I had last
resigned myself to until I read of your radiator fluid tests.  I'm thinking  
now that I might try this metheod and use a secondary heat exchanger (oil
cooler?) after it draws water from the radiator to give an additional amount
of cooling before going to the IC.  After doing this and adding a pump, it's
not all that much simpler than a seperate water circuit with a tank, but in
my application even foregoing the tank makes things simpler.  I don't have 
much engine bay area to work with and I don't want anything underneath unless
it's armored (more work).

As a bonus, I'b be able to pull a hose and pump the radiator empty instead
of using the next-to-worthless drain valve that somehow manages to direct
the coolant over the entire front frame and suspension before it makes it
to the ground (in about 12 different spots).


--Dan
houlster at inficad.com
http://www.inficad.com/~houlster/amigo.htm