4 links

[David Brode]

Hello all,
 Finally something I know a little about![humor]. I've done a bit of
chassis fabricating and help a friend with a 4 link equipped 3040 lb
B-1 Dart that carries the wheels 90 ft and runs 9.20's @ 149
[through the muffs].
 Short "bars" will cause your pinion angle to change a bunch during
travel. Most race car equal length "links" are 20" C/L to C/L.
Unequal length deals are usually 20" on the lower bars and shorter,
but as long as possible on top. For a street only car, Spread them
out as far as possible to prevent bad body roll, and make them level
front to rear. You can run them parallel to car's C/L, but you'll need a
diagonal link or a panhard bar. Another option is to run the top bars
[or all] at an angle, like many factory 4 bar setups. You could copy
most any factory design. Running at least the tops at an angle will
enable you to get away without a locator [panhard/track locator]
 Fyi - Chevettes had a 4 bar set up that could be cheaply adapted.
You can cut and re-weld them too.

 Now, if I could just get someone to tell me if 80's turbo 2.2 Chryslers
had low or high impedance injectors.
Good luck.
Dave Brode

>
> From: DemonTSi at aol.com
> Subject: Non- DIY EFI: question about four link/bar rear ends...
>
> Hi folks, I was hoping to get some info from someone who has experience with
> fabricating a rear 4 link or 4 bar suspension setup. I'm working on designing
> and fabbing a 4 bar for my datsun roadster and was just wondering if there
> were any optimum lengths for the links, and distance between them that I
> should try and stick to. Right now I have the links at about 10.5-11" long,
> and 5" apart, center-to-center. Any help/advice/tips/comments would be great!
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Van
> - - http://members.xoom.com/BADROC
>