Love This

[Greg Hermann]

>-----Original Message-----
>From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd at sni.net>
>To: diy_efi at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 9:50 PM
>Subject: Re: Love This
>
>Easier than that, just mount the rails horizontial, and have the regulator
>the
>high point, and vapor that collects rises to the regulator and self purges
>to the
>gas tank.  On some oem applications the regulator is below the centerline
>of the fuel rail so the rail accumulates the vapor, and at first WOT can go
>thru
>a purge mode..
>   Course the actual cause of the vapor forming is what needs addressed.
>As an example of the worst fuel line plumbing look at a 84 F-body with a
>carb..
>The fuel line runs right above the top of the tranny, and within 2-3" of the
>exhaust.
>   I wouldn't be surprised to find out road vibration plays a part in
>fuel foaming.
>Cheers
>Bruce
>
Yep, that works, but not the best (easiest or most accurate) thing on the
regulator. Regulator low, always in liquid, float vent high, to take care
of the vapor, if any is one step further. And , yep, it's one more piece to
bust. But it will get rid of the vapor virtually INSTANTLY, even after a
hot soak.

Proper plumbing practice is ESSENTIAL, either way. Good fuel piping has a
lot in common with proper refrigerant piping.

Regards, Greg
>
>
>>>Thanks Greg!  I think you have put your finger on a problem that I have
>>>been having.  Please elaborate on the float vent; on what junk cars can I
>>>remove one and where do I look for it on the car?
>>
>>I dunno of any cars that have used one!!! :-)
>>
>>Basically all it is is like the float bowl of a carb working in
>>reverse--the float chamber would be connected to the high point of the fuel
>>rails--when the float chamber is full of liquid fuel, the float rises, and
>>closes a needle valve. The outlet side of the needle valve is connected to
>>your vent line back to the tank. If enough vapor collects for the float to
>>drop, the needle valve opens, and the vapor goes bye bye into the vent
>>system.
>>
>>There are lots of float vents out there for various industrial piping
>>systems, but most weigh about 20 pounds, min.
>>
>>There are tiny little ones out there, made out of sheet metal, for domestic
>>hot water heating systems, which would not take the fuel pressure--general
>>environmental/vibration conditions under the hood at all.
>>
>>I have found one, made by Honeywell, which is rated 150psi, 250 degrees F,
>>which is OK as to  bulk/weight, and they rate it as OK for
>>water/glycol/petroleum based heat transfer fluids, so I think it MIGHT be
>>OK for use in an automotive fuel system. Have not tried it out yet--and I
>>would be pretty sure that Honeywell would have a whole litter of kittens if
>>they found out their product was being used that way, so I am a little
>>reluctant to state the part # of it. But that should not stop anybody from
>>getting hold of a Honeywell "Tradeline" catalogue at a local HVAC /controls
>>wholesaler and figuring out which part it is!!
>>
>>Been thinking about asking somebody that makes quality fuel system
>>stuff--mebbe Barry Grant-- if they would be interested in making them
>>specifically for our intended use. Prolly would have to go through a bunch
>>of BS to show them why it's a needed part--and that would be a real PITA.
>>
>>Regards, Greg
>>>
>>>At 02:01 PM 1/29/99 -0700, Greg wrote:
>>>(snip)
>>>>But
>>>>if you are doing variable pumping alone, for $#% sakes, use a float vent
>on
>>>>the rails, so as to get the #$#% bubbles back to the tank!!!
>>>>
>>>>Regards, Greg
>>
>>