To Todd

[Programmer]

I've been painting since the Basecoat Clearcoat systems ever came
out...there's actually no hardener in any BCCC system "base" paint. The
hardener/catalyst is always in the clear. There's always a minimum and
maximum "open" stage to where the base will accept a clearcoat bond--without
scuffing and recoating with base. You cannot sand basecoat metallics and
then shoot "clearcoat" over them if you've gone beyond the open stage...the
finish will look pretty bad. If you ever have to go this route, you need to
sand (600-800 wet and dry or scotchbrite gray), reshoot the base to lay the
metallics down properly again-- wait your minimum hand slick time, and shoot
the clear in medium wet--or whatever the paint manufacturer suggests. I
prefer Sikkens, but that's because I've never had any delamination with
their products--unlike some others over time...

Lyndon IPTECH (Autobody and Automotives)
-----Original Message-----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen at grolen.com>
To: diy_efi at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: To Todd


>Gary Derian wrote:
>>
>> The basecoat/clearcoat paints I have used require the clear to be painted
>> within 24 hrs of the base.  This made painting flames a 24 hr marathon.
>> Paint yellow base, wait 4 hrs, mask flames for 8 hrs, paint red base,
>> unmask, paint clear.
>
>>
>> The base and clear coats chemically bond together.  If you wait a week,
you
>> have to sand the whole thing and reapply some more base.  If you are just
>> painting some clear on top of regular paint, you still have to sand it
>> before the clear otherwise the clear won't stick.
>>
>> The solvents in paint should flash off between coats but the paint should
>> not cure.
>
>Might want to look into Standox paints.  There's no hardener in the
>base coat.  The base dries, but doesn't harden in the booth.
>Shannen
>>
>> Gary Derian <gderian at oh.verio.com>
>>
>
>