diy-wb works!

[rr]

Actually the sensors are calibrated at the factory. There is a resistor
in the connector that is tied into the DIY-WB output circuit. There
were some posts listing cal gases that can be used for calibration
and testing purposes. And yes, lead will kill an O2 sensor about as
fast as anything, except maybe silicone

BobR.


Kevin _ wrote:

> I'm still waiting (as patiently as a 4-year old :)  for my spot on the
> leftovers list so I can purchase both the DIY-WB board and components.  I
> have been looking up and cross-referencing a few things lately that may be
> of use though:
>
> The NTK UEGO is available through Napaonline being resold by Echlin with
> part number ECHOS791.  Cost is $139.  Borg Warner also resells the sensor
> with part number OS903.  That guy is about the same price through
> carparts.com.  If anybody has found the sensor recently for anything cheaper
> than this can you contact me off list plz?
>
> I was talking with an engines guy from NASCAR-land.  He said they use
> exactly this same sensor with the NTK driver box (its ~400 and I guess its
> only real difference from DIY-WB is a more elaborate heater circuit).  They
> calibrate each sensor when they get it into their hands, but I'm absolutely
> amazed at how exact of A/F's they're looking at.  He said the sensors all
> come in within 0.1 A/F of each other without any calibration!  That's
> amazingly tight tolerance, IMHO.  They are generally tuning and looking at
> changes under 0.05 A/F on the dyno - I'm surprised they get repeatable
> results down to that tight an A/F.  I'd be more than happy with a 0.5 A/F
> resolution.  Anyway, he said they get about 100 hours of life out of the
> sensors and then their output falls off.  They do some recalibrating in that
> timespan of course.  This is in a normal leaded fuel, so I'm guessing about
> 4 grams of lead per gallon.
>
> I haven't really noticed anything brought up about calibrating sensors.  I
> guess they do drift some in leaded fuels and they don't do it consistently
> either.  Some sensors are stable over their lifespan and others start
> drifting right away.  Has this topic been visited at all?  I think it would
> be very easy to do without a lab bench and to just calibrate a stoich point
> using a regular switching O2 sensor in the same stream as the UEGO.  I guess
> I need to do some more research on this calibration topic to know exactly
> what is entailed and necessary.
>
> Kevin
>
> >There is no guilt about being a lurker.  Just support those that are trying
> >to good things, and share when you do find out a neat thing.   Just a shame
> >a couple guys had to ruin so much for so many.
> >Just wait until you see how easy things get using it.
> >Your welcome
> >Bruce
> >
> >From: "Jim Sloan" <leroy at sunflower.com>
> >Subject: diy-wb works!
> > > I just wanted to thank everyone that contributed to this effort
> >especially
> > > Steven and Robert.  Also many thanks to Bruce and the little guys, whose
> > > posts I look forward to enthusiastically.  Bruce does make me feel a
> >little
> > > guilty for being a lurker, but it may be a good thing, since my
> >primitive
> > > conception of how things work is often wrong.
> > > I'm excited, since this is my first real electronic project.  It fired
> >up
> > > without any snags.  I used a heat sink from an injector driver from a
> >dead
> > > ecm for U1.  Now we'll see how far off my tuning has been.
> > > Many thanks.
> > > Jim Sloan
> > > leroy at sunflower.com

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