Turbo Chubby parts
Raymond Brantley
raymond at iwantperformance.net
Thu Dec 13 07:21:20 GMT 2001
My guess is that you don't use an engine hoist rented from a local auto
supply to drop that puppy in :>)
I used to work for a Mack dealership and remember marveling at the size
and strength of some of that stuff, although I didn't marvel when trying
to lift some of it. Their V-8 was pretty cool......
Thanks,
Raymond
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org] On
Behalf Of Greg Hermann
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 5:34 PM
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Turbo Chubby parts
At 8:17 PM 12/11/01, Bob Wooten wrote:
>Greg,
>
>Hope I did not step on your toes, implying that I was talking for you,
>that was not my intent. Just trying to sort all this stuff out.
Huh?? Never thought you did.
>
>Onto topic, by negative work do you mean that when the piston comes up
>during compression it looses work (meaning that it is not free, it
>costs me something to compress the gas) & by injecting water & by it
>cooling the charge in the Cyl, it reduces the loss?
Precisely.
>
>But on the flip side that the water reduces the amount of power
>(positive
>work) that I would have got out of that charge if it were "dry"?
Yes.
>
>But the gain of the reduction of work is larger than the gain in the
>positive work, meaning that the NET is more HP? If I am on track, this
>makes more sense (light bulbs coming on like a Christmas tree:)
BINGO!!
>
>Ahhhhhhhh, this makes sense.
Also makes sense as to why the bearing loads get lighter. With WI you
are not passing as much power around from one cylinder to another via
the crankshaft. Now that I state it that way--I would bet that there is
some reduction in torsional vibration in the crank, too !!
>
>So, IF I have a motor that is designed for WI I can design it around
>this net gain (& the others that you mentioned) & have a solid system
>that is going to be more efficient than one w/o it. (assuming a good
>state of tune
>initially)
That's my thought. Not backed up by experimentation and hardware that
_I_ have done, YET.
Been busy for some time planning out a 605 cid (based on an IHC "LV"
type
engine) that I think is going to end up with about 7 to 8 psi boost
(over sea level) and 10.5 to 1 or so mechanical compression. (Goal is
925 ft. lbs., 1500--4000 rpm) Want to use full time WI to see if I can
get it to run on ULR fuel. It's going in a motor home, so water tankage
is no problem. The rev limit comes from Allison's converter. Planning to
use VATN type turbos. (Again, the lower EGT's should let the VATN's be
reliable.)
Current problem is finding forged blanks for the pistons. (4-5/8" bore,
1-5/16" wrist pins, 2.4" pin CL to top). Have found blanks big enough in
6018 alloy, but _REALLY_ want to use 4032 !!! Why?? Seen, for instance,
some 4032 forged pistons for an FE Ford that spec only .0015" clearance
!!! IMO, this will give WAY better ring life for a street engine. And--I
won't have no steeeenkin' cast peeeestons, hyper or not, mon!!!
When IH christened these motors "LV" they did mean LARGE--5-3/8" bore
centers and 12-5/8" deck height ! Gonna use a block from a DV (diesel)
551, all of them, gas and diesel, had 18 head bolts per bank, but the
diesels had 9/16" head bolts and oil cooling nozzles for the pistons.
All five mains are cross bolted. :-) Will upgrade to 5/8" main studs and
7/16" cross bolts.
>
>OR, if I had a motor that was not designed around it I could increase
>something (air & fuel for example) & compensate for the increased load
>on the engine with WI & keep the efficiency of this system hopefully
>the same. (assuming a good state of tune)
Yep. The "designed around it" part is really just a higher mechanical
compression ratio and or boost level to take advantage of the fact that
you _CAN_ do that with the WI. When you really get into it, I would bet
there would be some cam timing things to be optimized. Likewise, I
thoroughly expect that there would be some turbine wheel and exhaust
housing adjustments to make on turbo(s) to get things just so, too.
First thought here is maybe one size smaller exhaust housing for a
starting place.
Compressor(s) would remain the same. But--a bit more mass flow in the
exhaust (from the water) together with the significantly lower EGT's is
telling me a slightly smaller nozzle would be in order. Of course--the
lower EGT's mean the turbines and the turbos would live a lot longer,
too !
>
>OR if I had a system that was not of a good state of tune & I had to
>back out timing or air or add fuel to keep the motor from detonating or
>reduce the HP output, the WI could compensate for it & bring the motor
>back the other direction. This though sounds dangerous, like trying to
>fix a severed arm with a Barney Band aid.
With the WI, I think you could just set the fuel mixture at 13 or even
13.5 to 1, even at full boost, and use the water to stay away from the
devil detonation. The water is likely going to make it want some more
timing compared to no water, too. Seems to me that this sort of stuff
would be fairly easy and safe to sneak up on from a tune meant for no
WI.
Greg
>
>No arguments from me, that's grumpy's job, ;-)
>BW
----- End of forwarded message from owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org -----
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