diy-EGOR

[rr]

Well, according to old posts, the resistor is for calibration. However,
they also mention that with free-air calibration, it's not needed. Might
be a way for Honda to skip a calibration step. The value of the one
here is 1.6 K ohm. Ah here it is: At atmos O2, Ip = 7.5ma.

As for the pots, some can be replaced with set resistors. R46 can easily
be replaced with 2 -10K's, or even 2 - 4.7K's. Can be 5%'ers if you
select ones that are close together.

Pot R44 should be replaced with a voltage reference. Chad put '0.45V
or equiv', so he is aware of this. Something such as a TL431 or an
LM385 would be good here. That and a couple of 1% resistors & the
pot goes away.

The pots on the heater circuit can also be set with resistors. However,
depending upon the required accuracy of the settings, it may not be
entirely feasable. Neither of the two are derived from a reference, so
it is difficult to say: use these values and it works.

For R20, if the regulator is at exactly 8.0v, a 4.99K to v+ and a 6.34K
(1%) to gnd gives 4.48 v into R21. This is very close to the required value.

BobR.

p.s. Are the Ip cells V1 & V2 really small batteries, or I am
really missing something here?


Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Has anyone figured out what for sure the resistor that is molded in to the
> connector is used for?.
> Or has any tried gathering the various values?.
> Anyone interested in trying to?
>
> Last I heard, there wasn't even a memory clear procedure when changing
> sensors on the oem Application.   Seems like as more are built we can start
> to use fixed values on things.
> There just has to be a set of fixed values, IMO, for all of the pots, I mean
> Honda is actually doing it..
>
> Thanks
> Bruce
>

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