Wiring harness construction technique question

[chris abreu]

Sorry to knit pick, but gold plating is used because it is the least 
corrosive material in the galvanic series next to platinum.  This means it 
will not corrode or will corrode extremely slowly no matter what it is in 
contact with when speaking of car applications where galvanic corrosion is 
dominate.

chris


I would like to put emphasis on one line below.


"Never mix terminal plating to avoid corrosion problems."


Gold terminals are not completely gold, but rather a flash on another
metallic surface (like nickel) and if they are mated with a contact of
another technology, it may be very detrimental to the system.


Gold to gold. Tin to tin....etc.


dh


----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley at eaton.com>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 7:29 AM
Subject: RE: Wiring harness construction technique question



>Some clarification of Roy's post for those in the US.
>Modern OEM wiring is intended for low cost, but they have
>to use componentry good enough to avoid warranty costs.
>Gold terminals ARE preferred on signal wires of low voltage.
>Never mix terminal platings to avoid corrosion problems.
>Connector disconnect/connect life cycles on US spec terminals is
>higher than 10 IMHO, more like 100 cycles.
>Most aftermarket connectors are not weatherproof.  The typical ring
>terminal would be bad in a corrosive environment (the rust belt)
>Most US OEM wire is NOT PVC. OEM's use XLPE(cross linked polyethelene)
>which does not cold flow like PVC under a weatherseal.  I know of
>no full service vendor in the US using a PVC or PTFE covering for
>their major customers.  This includes Packard/Delphi, Yazaki, Siemens,
>Tyco, etc.  Most everyone is using corrugated tubing with various tape
>coverings depending on Temp/environment.  Note that not all split
corrugated
>tubing is the same.  There are several different types with different temp
>ratings.  Tape has a temp spec also.
>For the average guy in this list, if it's a daily driver, just use a
>Delphi/Packard
>weatherpak connector for your critical connections, cover wires with high
>temp
>tubing and tape and call it good.
>If it's a weekend warrior / summer hero type car, you can get away with
lots
>worse
>connectors/terminals, Zip tied bundles, etc.
>And if you live in the rust belt, and drive it in the winter, (I do) God
>help you.  Get the best weatherproof connectors, protect all your wires
from
>abrasion,
>don't puncture the wires for testing (it WILL be a future failure).
>Moisture / salt will actually wick into the wiring through any punctures
and
>become a
>corrosion failure at that spot.
>
> >
> > Then you have the wire, this falls into several
> > catagories.  Most OEM's are using thin walled PVC
> > which is a cheap grade of wire when compared to what
> > the racing industry are using, this being thin walled
> > PTFE at at least 20 times the price and here in the UK
> > is classed as type 44 or 45 which is an aircraft grade
> > wire.
> >
> > Most OEM,s are not to concerned by the loom finish, it
> > is space tapped where it is out of sight but a mix of
> > taping and corregated split PVC tubbing is used around
> > the engine bay to make it a little tiddyier.
> >
> > I use a range of finishes from PVC tubing, lacing cord
> > to the expensive heatshrink looms using moulded
> > transitions.
> >
> > Looms should be fitted so as they do not obstruct
> > access to any major components, and so that they
> > cannot be accidently damaged when say removing an
> > engine.  I often use an engine dress loom that plugs
> > staight into a connector on my bulkhead.
> >
> >          thanks Roy  ( Spectric's Ltd )
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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