How do you tune an ECU without knock control

[Bruce]

>
> I don't really feel like pulling down a perfectly-good engine to
> check rod bearing wear.

So your basing you statment on assumptions, OK.

> Oil breakdown is more of a problem because of consistently-high
> temperatures (between 95 C and 135 C). That's one reason to use
> synthetic which lasts the usual change interval (15,000km).

And what drives those temps high?.
synthetic has as many down sides as up.  It's greater cold *flow* allows
more to weep off the bearing surfaces, so at cold start up when most wear
occurs, the bearings are *more* dry.   No thanks,  again, I tend to ignore
theory and advertising hype.

> > I put well over 200,000 miles on my LG4 Firebird, without a problem, and
> > that included hundreds of 600' and 1/4 mile passes, without so much as
> > taking a valve cover off (other then to install 1.6 rockers).  I did a
> > timing chain at 160K miles for grins.  I put 90K miles on a 1500cc 155HP
> > Fiat, and the bearings, rings pistons etc, were like new, reinstalled
the
> > old rings, and new bearing and went another 90K miles.  I won't bore you
> > with all of my customers cars (when I used to do mechanical work).
> > Anyone that indorses running trace or tip in detonation, oh never
mind.....
> > Bruce

> Just because it works without noticeable knock, doesn't mean it
> won't work better with light-knock. (Doesn't automatically mean
> it'll survive knock, but that's another issue.)

Geesh, how many ways can you reslice what you state?.
You said 240K Km, and no noticeable downsides, and have done ZERO to
document that statement.   Pull the pan and report back.  I made actual
observations, and did the tear downs, and you still want to compare notes,
on your assumptions.

And if your engine is at the level of tune of a Briggs and Stratton that
mutes your case in total other then as just blindly quoting some SAE paper.
Nite
Bruce




>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bernd Felsche" <bernie at innovative.iinet.net.au>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 8:51 PM
> > Subject: Re: How do you tune an ECU without knock control
> >
> >
> > > Bruce tapped away at the keyboard with:
> > > > So they are writting fairy tales for adults now, how interesting.
<g>
> > > > And to think some scoff at the little guys around here.
> > >
> > > Nothing wrong with "light-knock". My car's had it since new; now
> > > over 240,000km without any damage due to knock.
> > >
> > > These fairy tales are recognized Engineering practice. (At least
> > > according to a number of SAE papers.) Knock will start to do damage
> > > if it's severe enough to strip the boundary layer off the surface of
> > > the metal, allowing direct contact between the burning gas and the
> > > metal. The boundary layer usually insulates the surface from
> > > temperature and velocity extremes.
> > >
> > > > From: "Stephen Webb" <swebb at netlab.uky.edu>
> > > > > This is normal
> > > > > and actually enhances [economy/power]"  blah blah, your engine
> > > > > is designed to tolerate this for brief periods, blah blah.
> > >
> > > --
> > >  /"\  Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
> > >  \ /      ASCII ribbon campaign | I'm a .signature virus!       |
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> >
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