Tuning with the DIY-WBs

[Bruce]

Try adjusting BOTH, and see which works best for your application.
If in doubt, just try it.
The advance curve just flat can be time consuming, that's all there is to
it.   If you just rely on the K/S, you'll have way too much timing timing
during the transistional stuff.  What really works well are long gradual
grades, and lots of test drives.   If you look at the single line of the
timing table I posted yesterday are the day before you can readily see the
transistion areas.

You, have to just get in there and do it, making small changes and writting
notes.  After a while it gets MUCH easier.
HTH
Bruce



----- Original Message -----
From: <bill.shurvinton at nokia.com>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 5:45 AM
Subject: RE: Tuning with the DIY-WBs


> For a numpty like me, is there a way to tell if a lean spot is caused by
wrong fuel or spark, or is that where 30 years of tuning is the only way?
>
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ext Bruce [mailto:nacelp at bright.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 1996 2:42 PM
> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Tuning with the DIY-WBs
>
>
>
> Depending on what your doing, there are alot of little nuances that creep
up
> outside 12.-14.7:1 range.   It's well worth using the whole 40 (hmm, maybe
> it's 38), but either way your just shortchanging yourself to cut back it's
> range.
>     If you have a tip in lean spot, you're going to spend alot of time
> trying various combos to cure it if you have no idea of how severe it is,
> and what your changes are actually doing.
>     WOT, cruise, and idle are the easy parts, making a cal really drivible
> is what takes talent.
> Bruce
>
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