Tuning with the DIY-WBs

[rr]

Leaks in the exhaust will disrupt any O2 sensor. The best way to use a
WB is to data log it along with other engine information. Bruce Roe's
LED bar graph display will work much better then a DVM. It is the next
best thing to data logging.

BobR.

Jurgen Hartwig wrote:

> > Depending on what your doing, there are alot of little nuances that creep
> up
> > outside 12.-14.7:1 range.   It's well worth using the whole 40 (hmm, maybe
> > it's 38), but either way your just shortchanging yourself to cut back it's
> > range.
> >     If you have a tip in lean spot, you're going to spend alot of time
> > trying various combos to cure it if you have no idea of how severe it is,
> > and what your changes are actually doing.
> >     WOT, cruise, and idle are the easy parts, making a cal really drivible
> > is what takes talent.
>
> I recently got my wideband setup up and running (thanks to everyone
> involved).  I do not have an O2 sensor in my old car, so for now I'm
> inserting the O2 sensor in the tailpipe.  The unit warms up in about 15-20
> seconds (added a few resistors to the ceramic 1 ohm resistor), and shows
> 4.00V +/- 0.02V when warm.  When I insert the sensor, readings tend to
> fluctuate quite a bit.  For example, I have several exhaust leaks from bad
> gaskets.  The readings via voltmeter fluctuated from roughly 2.50 - 2.70,
> with 2.60 appearing to be the average voltage.  After reading saved emails
> from this list, this appears to be normal.  Does the LED meter help in this
> regard, or does it fluctuate normally?  Or, am I doing something wrong?
>
> How do you guys get usable output?
>
> Jay
>

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