Need some help to make my DIY-WB pass the tests

[bcroe at juno.com]

Hi Renaud,

I wonder if you realize you often can't measure a resistor 
if its in a circuit.  You need to disconnect one end of the 
resistor from the circuit to get an accurate (instead of 
too low) reading.  Any resistor within 1 % is good.  Maybe 
you should recheck them with that in mind.

Most of your voltages are close, esp if your meter might 
not be very high impedance and loads the circuit.

Bruce Roe

On Mon, 08 Apr 2002 08:14:09 -0400 renaud
<leguillr at COURRIER.UMontreal.CA> writes:

> I assembled my DIY-WB (following religiously the how-to 
> web pages), but it is the first time I soldered any electronic 
> components, and it does not  pass all the tests.  I did tests 
> as described on the diy-wb.com troubleshooting web page, 
> using a car battery, and I also did them again using the 
> battery+charger.  
> Here are my results:
> Test 12:
> J12 to U3 pin5: 7.32v (instead of 7.9/8v).
> I checked R38 and got 98.9K ohm, instead of 100K. Is R38 the 
> culprit?
> Test 17:
> J7 to J5(Vs): 1.82v (inst. of 1.9 to 2.1v).
> I found R31&R35 at 7.6K (instead of 10K). Bad Rs also?
> Test 20:
> J7 to U2 pins 5&9: Pin 5 is OK (0.450v), 9 is 0.427v.
> I found R18 at 55.8K (inst. of 56K).
> Test 26:
> Heater circuit powered up, Lead is on after 3 sec.(no sensor 
> connected), J7 
> to U2 pin 13:
> 0v!!! (inst. of .9/1.2v).
> I found R39: 22.9K (inst. of 68K!!!), and R40 at 17.6K (inst. of 
> 22K)
> 
> So, can these Rs explain my results? What kind of tolerance is Ok 
> for 
> those? Should I change all of these Rs?
> 
> Thanks a lot for your great help.
> 
> Renaud.
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