WB testing problems

[rr]

In this case the cap C12 may be a little leaky. To check that
lift one of the cap pins and re-check. If no change then short
together pins 1 & 2 on the ISO1. May be some leakage in
that portion of the heater control circuit.

Most definately run through the rest of the checks.

To Renaud, I've printed your post and have yet to get to
it. Just been so dang busy. I do know that your second to last
line is a problem. This is the one with 0v on U2 pin 13.

BobR.

Stephen Andersen wrote:

> My Multimeter is a Fluke 79.  I have also tested
> it with my cheapo Goldstar digital meter.  No change.
> I did the check with the 100k resistor to the +4V side
> of R38 and I get 7.8 volts, but still 6.75-6.8 at pin
> 5 of U3 even with a 100k inline.
>
> Any ideas from anyone, or should I just continue with
> the rest of the tests?  Anything obvious that it could be?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of bcroe at juno.com
> > Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 1:11 AM
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Cc: Stephen Andersen
> > Subject: WB testing problems
> >
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > Possibly the problem is your voltmeter.  If it is not a high
> > impedance (usually digital) type, it may load down the
> > circuit.  Try connecting your meter to J12, and through a
> > 100,000 ohm resistor to the + 4V end of R38.  If you see
> > the same 6.75 volts, it's just the meter.
> >
> > 98K is plenty close enough for R38.
> >
> > Bruce Roe
> >
> > On Fri, 12 Apr 2002 21:31:55 -0400 Stephen Andersen
> > <SAndersen at advan-tek.com> writes:
> > > Okay, I am testing out my assembled WB board using the
> > > www.diy-wb.com instructions.  I worked up thru step 14,
> > > but I ran into a wall at step 12.  Measuring from pin
> > > 5 on U3 to J12, with 14 volt input, I get 6.75V.
> > > According to the instructions, I am supposed to get
> > > 7.9-8.0 volts.  It says to check R38, C12, and ISO1.
> > > Since I dunno how to check C12 or ISO1, I replaced
> > > them with extras.  I also checked R38 and got 98k Ohms.
> > > It is supposed to be 100k.
> >
> > > Steve
> > > andersen at advan-tek.com
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
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