[Diy_efi] Re: [Efi332] Fw: wide-band O2 sensor comparison

Eck, Joel Joel.Eck at hp.com
Tue Aug 13 15:32:03 GMT 2002


Gar,

If you're so concerned about everyone else's engines and investments, =
fix it and post the redesign. I'm not interested in whatever vendettas =
you and bruce have going against each other, and I'm really getting =
rather tired of hearing it. well, I guess, reading it.

if this is some half-cocked way of trying to market your commercial =
device, all it does (for me, anyway) is make me NOT want to buy YOUR =
product... while you may have valid points, your hateful words hide the =
true value of any useful information you're sending out to the list. And =
I'm not saying that you are the only problem here, it just happened that =
I got too hacked off while reading your last post.

BTW, I agree that Bruce's note that his DIY-WB was 'only' off by .5 AFR =
is crazy. being off by .5 AFR either way is not acceptable if you're =
trying to calibrate to a specific AFR. at that point, one shouldn't even =
try to correlate the voltage output of the DIY-WB into an actual AFR.  =
but, if you're just trying to figure out that you're going rich during a =
certain condition, or leaning out during tip-in, etc. IMO, it should be =
fine for that.=20

that's my .0275 (.02 adjusted for inflation)
-----Original Message-----
From: Garfield Willis [mailto:garwillis at msn.com]

Sounds like you're just asking for trouble. Ask yourself how much $$ and
time you've got in your motor. If anything, with something as sloppy as
the dweeb, I would ALWAYS check it directly with a real AFR meter, not
use some assumed "same conditions" with an intermediate MAF/VAF result.

If you don't mind your AFR error band being a WHOLE AFR, and your engine
isn't valuable enough to spend $500 on a decent meter + sensor (that's a
total for both), then I guess you're stuck with either a NB w/LEDs or
the dweeb. Strikes me that spending $150-200 on a dweeb + sensor is
false economy. A whole AFR is a whole lotta slop to fool yourself with.
The difference has now come down to about $300, between a POS and a
commercial meter with industry-standard accuracy. Your choice. Oh, and
don't forget the support; these dweeb guys don't seem to know the first
thing about this technology or how to use it other than in
horseshoe-close tuning. You might think about how much you're going to
learn about using AFR sensing to tune, from dweebs like that.

Being at 12AFR and thinking you're at 11.5 and have a lot more rich to
pull out than you actually do is also just asking for trouble. So is
thinking your at 12.2, when you can't be sure you're any closer than
between 11.7 and 12.7, is also asking for trouble. Those former numbers
came directly from BruceP's data, the latter ones by implication, not
something I made up.

If that's good enough for you, you're NOT in racing or real proformance
work. I wouldn't even call that 'hobbyist' level; more like 'shadetree'
level. You might as well save your $200 and use your buttOmeter and your
ear for knock detection. You won't do much better than that with the
dweebOmeter.

Gar


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