Adding a gas tank return

Shannen Durphey shannen at grolen.com
Wed Jan 2 21:11:43 GMT 2002


Re: Baffles

Carby baffles often aren't good enough for efi.  If yur setup works, great.  But
many oem carby tanks rely on the carb bowl to supply some fuel if there's a
brief slosh of fuel away from the pickup tube.

One method that works is to use a low pressure pump to reservoir to high
pressure pump to efi system.  The reservoir can even be fed by a (gasp) carby
type mechanical pump!

Depends on yer needs-n-desires though.

Shannen

elcamino73 wrote:
> 
> I just added EFI to an old carb type tank.
> I brazed a return line that is three inches long in the sender plate.
> It sure would be nice to know what a stock EFI setup normally has!
> It already has baffles in the tank.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fran and Bud" <quest100 at gte.net>
> To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 4:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Adding a gas tank return
> 
> > IMHO
> > I believe that it is NECESSARY that the return line returns the fuel to
> VERY
> > near the bottom of the tank, well BELOW the fuel level to prevent fuel
> > aeration.
> >
> > Another reason to return to the bottom is that fuel flowing thru a line
> and
> > discharging thru open air space CAN (not WILL - just can) ignite the vapor
> > space under certain atmospheric conditions.  Fortunately most of the time
> > the vapor will be too rich to ignite and besides the weather wont be prone
> > to static generation - BUT you only have to be the "one in a million" that
> > it happens to for your whole day to be ruined.
> >
> > More important to using a tank that was not originally intended for EFI is
> > an well or a baffle for the fuel pickup to assure that the pump does not
> > suck air when the fuel level is low or when slosh from cornering, hard
> > acceleration, or braking can uncover the inlet.
> >
> > I have had good luck for years in adding things like outlets or returns by
> > cutting a 2 1/2" or 3" disc from some heavy sheet metal with a hole saw
> and
> > then brazing tubing or fittings into it and drilling a 4 to 6 hole pattern
> > near the outside edge.  It can then be fastened over a small hole in the
> > tank using cork or neoprene gasket material and bolted down with 4-6 self
> > tapping sheet metal screws.  If you want to get fancy you can use threaded
> > inserts and machine screws.  In any case all of the fabrication is
> external
> > to the tank except for cutting the extra hole in it, and vacuuming out the
> > shavings.
> >
> >
> > Bud
> >
> > ----------
> > >From: ECMnut at aol.com
> > >To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >Subject: Re: Adding a gas tank return
> > >Date: Wed, Dec 26, 2001, 2:10 PM
> > >
> >
> > >Hey Bruce,
> > >why does the return line have to be above the fuel level?
> > >Thanks,
> > >Mike V
> > >In a message dated 12/26/2001 4:49:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > >nacelp at bright.net writes:
> > >
> > >>
> > >>  The oem sender has a restrictor on the CCP line, and the oem return is
> > >below
> > >>  the fuel level.
> > >>
> > >>  Has anyone dealt with a similiar situation?, and what was your
> answers.
> > >>
> > >>  Drilling into the filler neck looks like a real PITA.
> > >>
> > >>  Beginning to look like a tank R+R and adding bulk head AN stuff around
> the
> > >>  sender is the only answer.
> > >>  TIA
> > >>  Bruce
> > >
> > >----- End of forwarded message from owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org -----
> >
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