[Diy_efi] Re: [Diy_efi]
purplemonster
purplemonster at ntlworld.com
Sat Jul 20 13:48:32 GMT 2002
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Larson" <zot241 at netzero.net>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2002 2:32 PM
Subject: [Diy_efi] Re: Diy_efi digest, Vol 1 #176 - 12 msgs
> unsubscribe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <diy_efi-request at diy-efi.org>
> To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 8:26 PM
> Subject: Diy_efi digest, Vol 1 #176 - 12 msgs
>
>
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> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Gregory A. Parmer)
> > 2. Re: v6 4.3 ecms. Got Code ?? (Jeremy Gonyou)
> > 3. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (rr)
> > 4. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (rr)
> > 5. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Andrew Brownsword)
> > 6. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Andrew Brownsword)
> > 7. Re: v6 4.3 ecms. Got Code ?? (Djfreggens at aol.com)
> > 8. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Bruce)
> > 9. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Robert A. Ward Sr.)
> > 10. coolant temperature sensor extension (?!) (95_HCMS)
> > 11. Re: coolant temperature sensor extension (?!) (Bruce)
> > 12. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Shannen Durphey)
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:31:40 -0500 (CDT)
> > From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer at acesag.auburn.edu>
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> > Absodamnlutely. I wrote that and it's been reviewed, even. Ouch.
> > I'll gladly make the update as soon as I can figure out exactly
> > how to reword it. Thank goodness there's only a single LED.
> >
> > -greg the #1 Dummy
> >
> > > Who's website is that anyhow? Perhaps an update is in order...
> > >
> > > Thanks for the info guys,
> > > Andrew
> > >
> > >
> > > on 7/19/02 10:41 AM, Scott Campbell at oneslowalltrac at yahoo.com wrote:
> > >
> > > > Oops I spoke too soon.
> > > >
> > > > The length of the lead, and the position of the flat
> > > > spot varies between LED manufacturers. However the
> > > > Cathode can be identified by holding the LED up to the
> > > > light. The larger of terminal inside is the Cathode.
> > > >
> > > > Scott.
> > > >
> > > > --- Scott Campbell <oneslowalltrac at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > >> Hi Andrew,
> > > >>
> > > >> As you now know, that description of Anode/Cathode
> > > >> identification is backward.
> > > >>
> > > >> On an LED, the Anode(+) is identified by the longer
> > > >> lead and/or a flat on the side of the LED. The
> > > >> Cathode(-) is the shorter lead.
> > > >>
> > > >> (pin 2) Cathode ----|<|---- Anode (pin 1)
> > > >>
> > > >> Scott.
> > > >>
> > > >> --- Andrew Brownsword <asword at telus.net> wrote:
> > > >>>>> on 7/18/02 2:27 PM, rr at RRauscher at nni.com
> > > >> wrote:
> > > >>> I reversed it and now it works fine. I had it
> > > >>> backward because this page
> > > >>>
> > > >> http://www.aces.edu/~gparmer/efi/temp/wb/guide.html
> > > >>> says:
> > > >>>
> > > >>> "The cathode (+) is identified by end having the
> > > >>> stripe , a "+" marking, or
> > > >>> a longer lead. Also notable is that the LED has a
> > > >>> flat spot machined on side
> > > >>> of the lens corresponding to the anode (-). On the
> > > >>> schematic, the cathode is
> > > >>> the base of the triangle and the anode is the
> > > >>> straight bar with the triangle
> > > >>> pointing at it. Notice that the cathode (+) being
> > > >>> identified by a stripe is
> > > >>> a theme repeated on the circuit board (even for
> > > >>> diodes like the LED which
> > > >>> are not identified this way). If the leads have
> > > >>> already been cut on your
> > > >>> LED, look inside the diode. You'll notice two
> > > >> hunks
> > > >>> of metal. The larger is
> > > >>> the anode."
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:51:34 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Jeremy Gonyou <jeremygonyou at yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] v6 4.3 ecms. Got Code ??
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> > Yes and yes. That is, if you're talking about Vortec.
> > Otherwise, I don't think so and I don't think so.
> >
> > > i am wndering if anyone has disassembled the gm 4.3
> > > v6 ecms?? or does someone
> > > have a ecu file ??anyhelp is appreciated.
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes
> > http://autos.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:33:55 -0400
> > From: rr <RRauscher at nni.com>
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> > Andrew Brownsword wrote:
> > >
> > > >>on 7/18/02 2:27 PM, rr at RRauscher at nni.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for responding in my time of need. :)
> > >
> > > >> The UEGO circuit fails two tests: pin 5 of U3 measures 7.2v
instead
> of 7.8
> > > >> - 8.0, and J5 measures 1.8v instead of 1.9 - 2.1.
> > > >
> > > > For U3 pin 5 lift one leg of the cap C12 and re-measure. IF the
> voltage
> > > > goes up that cap is leaky.
> > >
> > > The voltage didn't change, so the capacitor would seem to not be the
> > > culprit. Any other suggestions? Is it related to the J5 voltage
> problem?
> >
> > Have you cleaned the flux off the board yet?
> >
> > >
> > > > J5 should really be closer to 2 volts. Is the +4 volt (VGnd)
> measurement
> > > > on the low side? This would contribute to a low J5 reading. If not
> then
> > > > double check the resistors R31, R32 & R35; as to being 1% to and 10K
&
> > > > 100K.
> > >
> > > The VGnd voltage is about 3.95v -- so it is on the low side. Could
this
> be
> > > a result of my power supply being on the 12.5v? Does it matter?
Those
> 3
> > > resistors are all very close to their target values (<0.5% error).
> >
> > 3.95v is at 1.25%, darn good. Lets see, 1.8v/2.0v = 10%. That is why I
> > believe it should be higher. Maybe check the specs on the DVM you are
> > using. It may be loading the circuit.
> >
> > >
> > > >> When I power on the heater circuit the LED doesn't come on. The
site
> says I
> > > >> need 13-16 volts and the (R/C model) battery I'm using is only
> 12.5v -- is
> > > >> this likely the reason? When I measure the voltage across the LED
it
> seems
> > > >> to read -11.5v which makes me wonder if I put the LED on backwards,
> but I've
> > > >> got the flat spot opposite the stripe on the PCB which is how the
> > > >> construction guide indicates it should be.
> > > >
> > > > If this is w/o the sensor or any load connected then the 12 V is
> enough
> > > > to light the LED. Hmm, I thought that the flat went w/the stripe.
> Let'me
> > > > check. . . Yes, the board I looked at has the LED flat on the same
> side
> > > > as the footprint stripe end.
> > >
> > > I reversed it and now it works fine. I had it backward because this
> page
> > > http://www.aces.edu/~gparmer/efi/temp/wb/guide.html says:
> > >
> > > "The cathode (+) is identified by end having the stripe , a "+"
marking,
> or
> > > a longer lead. Also notable is that the LED has a flat spot machined
on
> side
> > > of the lens corresponding to the anode (-). On the schematic, the
> cathode is
> > > the base of the triangle and the anode is the straight bar with the
> triangle
> > > pointing at it. Notice that the cathode (+) being identified by a
stripe
> is
> > > a theme repeated on the circuit board (even for diodes like the LED
> which
> > > are not identified this way). If the leads have already been cut on
your
> > > LED, look inside the diode. You'll notice two hunks of metal. The
larger
> is
> > > the anode."
> > >
> > > Which, as I read it anyhow, implies that the flat spot is anode and
the
> > > stripe is cathode... meaning that the flat spot is away from the
stripe.
> > > What am I missing?
> > >
> > >
> > > > P.S. note that the checks #34+ are not entirely valid. If they work
> OK,
> > > > If not then do not worry about it.
> > >
> > > I'm following this: http://www.diy-wb.com/diywbchk.htm and my
browser
> > > doesn't show any sensible test numbers... which one is #34, and should
I
> > > even bother trying them if they aren't entirely valid? Hooking up the
> > > switch sounds like a bit of a pain.
> > >
> >
> > You can try the tests, if they wwork good. If not, then do not worry
> > about it. Step 34 starts with:
> >
> > Keeping the DVM on U2 pin 8 close the switch. The voltage will
> > slowly drop. It will take ~ 2 minutes with the voltage
> > reaching ~ -3.4 v.
> > If not check C10, R18, R34 and U2.
> >
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:38:53 -0400
> > From: rr <RRauscher at nni.com>
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> > Greg, we are happy that someone took the effort to
> > build a site to help with the construction.
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> > "Gregory A. Parmer" wrote:
> > >
> > > Absodamnlutely. I wrote that and it's been reviewed, even. Ouch.
> > > I'll gladly make the update as soon as I can figure out exactly
> > > how to reword it. Thank goodness there's only a single LED.
> > >
> > > -greg the #1 Dummy
> > >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:26:55 -0700
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > From: Andrew Brownsword <asword at telus.net>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> > Absofrippenlutely! I wouldn't have even attempted the project if it
> weren't
> > for this friendly and informative page.
> >
> > on 7/19/02 1:38 PM, rr at RRauscher at nni.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Greg, we are happy that someone took the effort to
> > > build a site to help with the construction.
> > >
> > > Thank you,
> > >
> > > BobR.
> > >
> > > "Gregory A. Parmer" wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Absodamnlutely. I wrote that and it's been reviewed, even. Ouch.
> > >> I'll gladly make the update as soon as I can figure out exactly
> > >> how to reword it. Thank goodness there's only a single LED.
> > >>
> > >> -greg the #1 Dummy
> > >>
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:32:01 -0700
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > From: Andrew Brownsword <asword at telus.net>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> > >>>> The UEGO circuit fails two tests: pin 5 of U3 measures 7.2v
instead
> of 7.8
> > >>>> - 8.0, and J5 measures 1.8v instead of 1.9 - 2.1.
> > >>>
> > >>> For U3 pin 5 lift one leg of the cap C12 and re-measure. IF the
> voltage
> > >>> goes up that cap is leaky.
> > >>
> > >> The voltage didn't change, so the capacitor would seem to not be the
> > >> culprit. Any other suggestions? Is it related to the J5 voltage
> problem?
> > >
> > > Have you cleaned the flux off the board yet?
> >
> > I cleaned off one particularly bad area using a chemical "pen". Should
I
> do
> > a more extensive pass? Can flux cause shorts?
> >
> >
> > >>> J5 should really be closer to 2 volts. Is the +4 volt (VGnd)
> measurement
> > >>> on the low side? This would contribute to a low J5 reading. If not
> then
> > >>> double check the resistors R31, R32 & R35; as to being 1% to and 10K
&
> > >>> 100K.
> > >>
> > >> The VGnd voltage is about 3.95v -- so it is on the low side. Could
> this be
> > >> a result of my power supply being on the 12.5v? Does it matter?
Those
> 3
> > >> resistors are all very close to their target values (<0.5% error).
> > >
> > > 3.95v is at 1.25%, darn good. Lets see, 1.8v/2.0v = 10%. That is why I
> > > believe it should be higher. Maybe check the specs on the DVM you are
> > > using. It may be loading the circuit.
> >
> > Hmmm. Unfortunately I don't have the manual for this unit anymore. Its
a
> > Sperry DM-4100A... nothing fancy just your basic DVM. Should I go and
> > invest in something better? Recommendations?
> >
> >
> > > You can try the tests, if they wwork good. If not, then do not worry
> > > about it.
> >
> > Heh, this seems like an interesting testing policy. :)
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Andrew
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 7
> > From: Djfreggens at aol.com
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:46:57 EDT
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] v6 4.3 ecms. Got Code ??
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> > yes vortec can you share please ??
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 8
> > From: "Bruce" <nacelp at bright.net>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 1995 20:28:04 -0400
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Andrew Brownsword" <asword at telus.net>
> > >Can flux cause shorts?
> >
> > Once upon I time I used fluxs. Now only on heavy guage wiring harness
> type
> > work. They can etch the board,
> > They can cause high resistance *traces*
> > These resistances can vary with temp., and yes I was using non acid
> > versions.
> > Some electrical supply sources sell areosol neutrilizers, and cleaners.
> > I've had consistant good luck just using regular flux type solders,
Kester
> > being the only one I use now. The archives have some other opinions
about
> > solders
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 9
> > From: "Robert A. Ward Sr." <rawardsr at ameritech.net>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 21:54:15 -0400
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> > At work we use organic core solder with water soluble flux, mainly
alcohol
> > with a mild hydrochloric acid. Wash the boards with plain water and dry.
> > Just have to make sure all your water sensitive components are sealed.
All
> > are boards leave clean as a whistle :-)
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bruce" <nacelp at bright.net>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 1995 8:28 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> >
> >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Andrew Brownsword" <asword at telus.net>
> > > >Can flux cause shorts?
> > >
> > > Once upon I time I used fluxs. Now only on heavy guage wiring harness
> > type
> > > work. They can etch the board,
> > > They can cause high resistance *traces*
> > > These resistances can vary with temp., and yes I was using non acid
> > > versions.
> > > Some electrical supply sources sell areosol neutrilizers, and
cleaners.
> > > I've had consistant good luck just using regular flux type solders,
> Kester
> > > being the only one I use now. The archives have some other opinions
> about
> > > solders
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 10
> > From: "95_HCMS" <sandoren at worldnet.att.net>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:11:58 -0700
> > Subject: [Diy_efi] coolant temperature sensor extension (?!)
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C22F58.27B3D680
> > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > I pulled out my coolant sensor while working to replace my water pump =
> > and thermostat.
> >
> > Strange (?), the sensor is mounted in an extension. The aluminum =
> > extension has what looks to be a sensor on the end of it. When I =
> > seperated the two, the actual sensor looks normal except for what looks
=
> > like a little lithium grease inside the extension where the actual =
> > sensor resides.
> >
> > What's odd, is that the threads on the extension are the same size =
> > threads on the sensor.
> >
> > Why would this combination exist? Am I missing something, here?
> >
> > Can I dump the extension and just put only the sensor back in the block?
> >
> > Does anyone have any incite into this combination/situation?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C22F58.27B3D680
> > Content-Type: text/html;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > <HTML><HEAD>
> > <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> > charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> > <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
> > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > </HEAD>
> > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I pulled out my coolant sensor while =
> > working to=20
> > replace my water pump and thermostat.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Strange (?), the sensor is mounted in =
> > an=20
> > extension. The aluminum extension has what looks to be a sensor on
=
> > the end=20
> > of it. When I seperated the two, the actual sensor looks normal =
> > except for=20
> > what looks like a little lithium grease inside the extension where the =
> > actual=20
> > sensor resides.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What's odd, is that the threads on the
=
> > extension=20
> > are the same size threads on the sensor.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Why would this combination exist?
=
> > Am I=20
> > missing something, here?</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Can I dump the extension and just put =
> > only the=20
> > sensor back in the block?</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have any incite into
this=20
> > combination/situation?</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C22F58.27B3D680--
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 11
> > From: "Bruce" <nacelp at bright.net>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] coolant temperature sensor extension (?!)
> > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 1995 22:59:50 -0400
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_070E_01BA562B.5A6BB2E0
> > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> >
> > Might be there to dampen the sensors response.
> > ie be there to cover for not enough filtering in the code, and resultant
=
> > timing/fuel corrections, that result in a lack of smoothness in the way
=
> > the engine runs.
> > Bruce
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----=20
> > From: 95_HCMS=20
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org=20
> > Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 10:11 PM
> > Subject: [Diy_efi] coolant temperature sensor extension (?!)
> >
> >
> > I pulled out my coolant sensor while working to replace my water pump
=
> > and thermostat.
> >
> > Strange (?), the sensor is mounted in an extension. The aluminum =
> > extension has what looks to be a sensor on the end of it. When I =
> > seperated the two, the actual sensor looks normal except for what looks
=
> > like a little lithium grease inside the extension where the actual =
> > sensor resides.
> >
> > What's odd, is that the threads on the extension are the same size =
> > threads on the sensor.
> >
> > Why would this combination exist? Am I missing something, here?
> >
> > Can I dump the extension and just put only the sensor back in the =
> > block?
> >
> > Does anyone have any incite into this combination/situation?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_070E_01BA562B.5A6BB2E0
> > Content-Type: text/html;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > <HTML><HEAD>
> > <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> > charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4728.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
> > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > </HEAD>
> > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Might be there to dampen the sensors=20
> > response.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>ie be there to cover for not =
> > enough filtering=20
> > in the code, and resultant timing/fuel corrections, that result in a =
> > lack of=20
> > smoothness in the way the engine runs.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bruce</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
> > style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
> > BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
> > <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> > <DIV=20
> > style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
> > black"><B>From:</B>=20
> > <A title=3Dsandoren at worldnet.att.net=20
> > href=3D"mailto:sandoren at worldnet.att.net">95_HCMS</A> </DIV>
> > <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
> > title=3Ddiy_efi at diy-efi.org=20
> > href=3D"mailto:diy_efi at diy-efi.org">diy_efi at diy-efi.org</A> </DIV>
> > <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 19, 2002 =
> > 10:11=20
> > PM</DIV>
> > <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Diy_efi] coolant =
> > temperature=20
> > sensor extension (?!)</DIV>
> > <DIV><BR></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I pulled out my coolant sensor while
=
> > working to=20
> > replace my water pump and thermostat.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Strange (?), the sensor is mounted in
=
> > an=20
> > extension. The aluminum extension has what looks to be a sensor
=
> > on the=20
> > end of it. When I seperated the two, the actual sensor looks =
> > normal=20
> > except for what looks like a little lithium grease inside the =
> > extension where=20
> > the actual sensor resides.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What's odd, is that the threads on =
> > the extension=20
> > are the same size threads on the sensor.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Why would this combination =
> > exist? Am I=20
> > missing something, here?</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Can I dump the extension and just put
=
> > only the=20
> > sensor back in the block?</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have any incite into this
=
> >
> > combination/situation?</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
> > size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_070E_01BA562B.5A6BB2E0--
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 12
> > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 23:08:32 -0400
> > From: Shannen Durphey <shannen at grolen.com>
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >
> > LOL!!!
> >
> > I was very careful to install everything correctly. When the LED
wouldn't
> > work, and the tests were all passing, I referred to a prior post from
> Bruce
> > R which said "If all tests are good, and the LED doesn't light, the LED
is
> > probably reversed." I chalked it up to a late night mistake and just
> > swapped the leads. If the el cheapo DVOM had been able to test LED
> > polarity, it wouldn't have ever happened.
> >
> > <g>
> > Shannen
> >
> > "Gregory A. Parmer" wrote:
> > >
> > > Absodamnlutely. I wrote that and it's been reviewed, even. Ouch.
> > > I'll gladly make the update as soon as I can figure out exactly
> > > how to reword it. Thank goodness there's only a single LED.
> > >
> > > -greg the #1 Dummy
> > >
> > > > Who's website is that anyhow? Perhaps an update is in order...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the info guys,
> > > > Andrew
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > on 7/19/02 10:41 AM, Scott Campbell at oneslowalltrac at yahoo.com
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Oops I spoke too soon.
> > > > >
> > > > > The length of the lead, and the position of the flat
> > > > > spot varies between LED manufacturers. However the
> > > > > Cathode can be identified by holding the LED up to the
> > > > > light. The larger of terminal inside is the Cathode.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scott.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Scott Campbell <oneslowalltrac at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > >> Hi Andrew,
> > > > >>
> > > > >> As you now know, that description of Anode/Cathode
> > > > >> identification is backward.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> On an LED, the Anode(+) is identified by the longer
> > > > >> lead and/or a flat on the side of the LED. The
> > > > >> Cathode(-) is the shorter lead.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> (pin 2) Cathode ----|<|---- Anode (pin 1)
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Scott.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> --- Andrew Brownsword <asword at telus.net> wrote:
> > > > >>>>> on 7/18/02 2:27 PM, rr at RRauscher at nni.com
> > > > >> wrote:
> > > > >>> I reversed it and now it works fine. I had it
> > > > >>> backward because this page
> > > > >>>
> > > > >> http://www.aces.edu/~gparmer/efi/temp/wb/guide.html
> > > > >>> says:
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> "The cathode (+) is identified by end having the
> > > > >>> stripe , a "+" marking, or
> > > > >>> a longer lead. Also notable is that the LED has a
> > > > >>> flat spot machined on side
> > > > >>> of the lens corresponding to the anode (-). On the
> > > > >>> schematic, the cathode is
> > > > >>> the base of the triangle and the anode is the
> > > > >>> straight bar with the triangle
> > > > >>> pointing at it. Notice that the cathode (+) being
> > > > >>> identified by a stripe is
> > > > >>> a theme repeated on the circuit board (even for
> > > > >>> diodes like the LED which
> > > > >>> are not identified this way). If the leads have
> > > > >>> already been cut on your
> > > > >>> LED, look inside the diode. You'll notice two
> > > > >> hunks
> > > > >>> of metal. The larger is
> > > > >>> the anode."
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
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> >
> > End of Diy_efi Digest
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