[Diy_efi] Re: [Diy_efi]

Bruce nacelp at bright.net
Sat Jul 20 14:07:40 GMT 2002 

A million taxfree dollars.


----- Original Message -----
From: "purplemonster" <purplemonster at ntlworld.com>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2002 9:39 AM
Subject: [Diy_efi] Re: [Diy_efi]


> unsubscribe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank Larson" <zot241 at netzero.net>
> To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2002 2:32 PM
> Subject: [Diy_efi] Re: Diy_efi digest, Vol 1 #176 - 12 msgs
>
>
> > unsubscribe
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <diy_efi-request at diy-efi.org>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 8:26 PM
> > Subject: Diy_efi digest, Vol 1 #176 - 12 msgs
> >
> >
> > > Send Diy_efi mailing list submissions to
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> > >
> > > Today's Topics:
> > >
> > >    1. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Gregory A. Parmer)
> > >    2. Re: v6 4.3 ecms. Got Code ?? (Jeremy Gonyou)
> > >    3. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (rr)
> > >    4. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (rr)
> > >    5. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Andrew Brownsword)
> > >    6. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Andrew Brownsword)
> > >    7. Re: v6 4.3 ecms. Got Code ?? (Djfreggens at aol.com)
> > >    8. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Bruce)
> > >    9. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Robert A. Ward Sr.)
> > >   10. coolant temperature sensor extension (?!) (95_HCMS)
> > >   11. Re: coolant temperature sensor extension (?!) (Bruce)
> > >   12. Re: DIY-WB construction & testing... help (Shannen Durphey)
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:31:40 -0500 (CDT)
> > > From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer at acesag.auburn.edu>
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > >
> > > Absodamnlutely. I wrote that and it's been reviewed, even. Ouch.
> > > I'll gladly make the update as soon as I can figure out exactly
> > > how to reword it. Thank goodness there's only a single LED.
> > >
> > > -greg   the #1 Dummy
> > >
> > > > Who's website is that anyhow?  Perhaps an update is in order...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the info guys,
> > > >   Andrew
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > on 7/19/02 10:41 AM, Scott Campbell at oneslowalltrac at yahoo.com
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Oops I spoke too soon.
> > > > >
> > > > > The length of the lead, and the position of the flat
> > > > > spot varies between LED manufacturers.  However the
> > > > > Cathode can be identified by holding the LED up to the
> > > > > light.  The larger of terminal inside is the Cathode.
> > > > >
> > > > > Scott.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Scott Campbell <oneslowalltrac at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > >> Hi Andrew,
> > > > >>
> > > > >> As you now know, that description of Anode/Cathode
> > > > >> identification is backward.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> On an LED, the Anode(+) is identified by the longer
> > > > >> lead and/or a flat on the side of the LED.  The
> > > > >> Cathode(-) is the shorter lead.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> (pin 2) Cathode ----|<|---- Anode (pin 1)
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Scott.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> --- Andrew Brownsword <asword at telus.net> wrote:
> > > > >>>>> on 7/18/02 2:27 PM, rr at RRauscher at nni.com
> > > > >> wrote:
> > > > >>> I reversed it and now it works fine.  I had it
> > > > >>> backward because this page
> > > > >>>
> > > > >> http://www.aces.edu/~gparmer/efi/temp/wb/guide.html
> > > > >>> says:
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> "The cathode (+) is identified by end having the
> > > > >>> stripe , a "+" marking, or
> > > > >>> a longer lead. Also notable is that the LED has a
> > > > >>> flat spot machined on side
> > > > >>> of the lens corresponding to the anode (-). On the
> > > > >>> schematic, the cathode is
> > > > >>> the base of the triangle and the anode is the
> > > > >>> straight bar with the triangle
> > > > >>> pointing at it. Notice that the cathode (+) being
> > > > >>> identified by a stripe is
> > > > >>> a theme repeated on the circuit board (even for
> > > > >>> diodes like the LED which
> > > > >>> are not identified this way). If the leads have
> > > > >>> already been cut on your
> > > > >>> LED, look inside the diode. You'll notice two
> > > > >> hunks
> > > > >>> of metal. The larger is
> > > > >>> the anode."
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 12:51:34 -0700 (PDT)
> > > From: Jeremy Gonyou <jeremygonyou at yahoo.com>
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] v6 4.3 ecms. Got Code ??
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > >
> > > Yes and yes.  That is, if you're talking about Vortec.
> > >  Otherwise, I don't think so and I don't think so.
> > >
> > > > i am wndering if anyone has disassembled the gm 4.3
> > > > v6 ecms?? or does someone
> > > > have a ecu file ??anyhelp is appreciated.
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes
> > > http://autos.yahoo.com
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 3
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:33:55 -0400
> > > From: rr <RRauscher at nni.com>
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > Andrew Brownsword wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >>on 7/18/02 2:27 PM, rr at RRauscher at nni.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for responding in my time of need.   :)
> > > >
> > > > >> The UEGO circuit fails two tests:  pin 5 of U3 measures 7.2v
> instead
> > of 7.8
> > > > >> - 8.0, and J5 measures 1.8v instead of 1.9 - 2.1.
> > > > >
> > > > > For U3 pin 5 lift one leg of the cap C12 and re-measure. IF the
> > voltage
> > > > > goes up that cap is leaky.
> > > >
> > > > The voltage didn't change, so the capacitor would seem to not be the
> > > > culprit.  Any other suggestions?  Is it related to the J5 voltage
> > problem?
> > >
> > > Have you cleaned the flux off the board yet?
> > >
> > > >
> > > > > J5 should really be closer to 2 volts. Is the +4 volt (VGnd)
> > measurement
> > > > > on the low side? This would contribute to a low J5 reading. If not
> > then
> > > > > double check the resistors R31, R32 & R35; as to being 1% to and
10K
> &
> > > > > 100K.
> > > >
> > > > The VGnd voltage is about 3.95v -- so it is on the low side.  Could
> this
> > be
> > > > a result of my power supply being on the 12.5v?  Does it matter?
> Those
> > 3
> > > > resistors are all very close to their target values (<0.5% error).
> > >
> > > 3.95v is at 1.25%, darn good. Lets see, 1.8v/2.0v = 10%. That is why I
> > > believe it should be higher. Maybe check the specs on the DVM you are
> > > using. It may be loading the circuit.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > >> When I power on the heater circuit the LED doesn't come on.  The
> site
> > says I
> > > > >> need 13-16 volts and the (R/C model) battery I'm using is only
> > 12.5v -- is
> > > > >> this likely the reason?  When I measure the voltage across the
LED
> it
> > seems
> > > > >> to read -11.5v which makes me wonder if I put the LED on
backwards,
> > but I've
> > > > >> got the flat spot opposite the stripe on the PCB which is how the
> > > > >> construction guide indicates it should be.
> > > > >
> > > > > If this is w/o the sensor or any load connected then the 12 V is
> > enough
> > > > > to light the LED. Hmm, I thought that the flat went w/the stripe.
> > Let'me
> > > > > check. . . Yes, the board I looked at has the LED flat on the same
> > side
> > > > > as the footprint stripe end.
> > > >
> > > > I reversed it and now it works fine.  I had it backward because this
> > page
> > > > http://www.aces.edu/~gparmer/efi/temp/wb/guide.html says:
> > > >
> > > > "The cathode (+) is identified by end having the stripe , a "+"
> marking,
> > or
> > > > a longer lead. Also notable is that the LED has a flat spot machined
> on
> > side
> > > > of the lens corresponding to the anode (-). On the schematic, the
> > cathode is
> > > > the base of the triangle and the anode is the straight bar with the
> > triangle
> > > > pointing at it. Notice that the cathode (+) being identified by a
> stripe
> > is
> > > > a theme repeated on the circuit board (even for diodes like the LED
> > which
> > > > are not identified this way). If the leads have already been cut on
> your
> > > > LED, look inside the diode. You'll notice two hunks of metal. The
> larger
> > is
> > > > the anode."
> > > >
> > > > Which, as I read it anyhow, implies that the flat spot is anode and
> the
> > > > stripe is cathode... meaning that the flat spot is away from the
> stripe.
> > > > What am I missing?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > P.S. note that the checks #34+ are not entirely valid. If they
work
> > OK,
> > > > > If not then do not worry about it.
> > > >
> > > > I'm following this:  http://www.diy-wb.com/diywbchk.htm  and my
> browser
> > > > doesn't show any sensible test numbers... which one is #34, and
should
> I
> > > > even bother trying them if they aren't entirely valid?  Hooking up
the
> > > > switch sounds like a bit of a pain.
> > > >
> > >
> > > You can try the tests, if they wwork good. If not, then do not worry
> > > about it. Step 34 starts with:
> > >
> > >      Keeping the DVM on U2 pin 8 close the switch. The voltage will
> > >      slowly drop. It will take ~ 2 minutes with the voltage
> > >      reaching ~ -3.4 v.
> > >            If not check C10, R18, R34 and U2.
> > >
> > >
> > > BobR.
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 4
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:38:53 -0400
> > > From: rr <RRauscher at nni.com>
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > >
> > > Greg, we are happy that someone took the effort to
> > > build a site to help with the construction.
> > >
> > > Thank you,
> > >
> > > BobR.
> > >
> > > "Gregory A. Parmer" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Absodamnlutely. I wrote that and it's been reviewed, even. Ouch.
> > > > I'll gladly make the update as soon as I can figure out exactly
> > > > how to reword it. Thank goodness there's only a single LED.
> > > >
> > > > -greg   the #1 Dummy
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 5
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:26:55 -0700
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > > From: Andrew Brownsword <asword at telus.net>
> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > Absofrippenlutely!  I wouldn't have even attempted the project if it
> > weren't
> > > for this friendly and informative page.
> > >
> > > on 7/19/02 1:38 PM, rr at RRauscher at nni.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Greg, we are happy that someone took the effort to
> > > > build a site to help with the construction.
> > > >
> > > > Thank you,
> > > >
> > > > BobR.
> > > >
> > > > "Gregory A. Parmer" wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> Absodamnlutely. I wrote that and it's been reviewed, even. Ouch.
> > > >> I'll gladly make the update as soon as I can figure out exactly
> > > >> how to reword it. Thank goodness there's only a single LED.
> > > >>
> > > >> -greg   the #1 Dummy
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 6
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:32:01 -0700
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > > From: Andrew Brownsword <asword at telus.net>
> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > >
> > > >>>> The UEGO circuit fails two tests:  pin 5 of U3 measures 7.2v
> instead
> > of 7.8
> > > >>>> - 8.0, and J5 measures 1.8v instead of 1.9 - 2.1.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> For U3 pin 5 lift one leg of the cap C12 and re-measure. IF the
> > voltage
> > > >>> goes up that cap is leaky.
> > > >>
> > > >> The voltage didn't change, so the capacitor would seem to not be
the
> > > >> culprit.  Any other suggestions?  Is it related to the J5 voltage
> > problem?
> > > >
> > > > Have you cleaned the flux off the board yet?
> > >
> > > I cleaned off one particularly bad area using a chemical "pen".
Should
> I
> > do
> > > a more extensive pass?  Can flux cause shorts?
> > >
> > >
> > > >>> J5 should really be closer to 2 volts. Is the +4 volt (VGnd)
> > measurement
> > > >>> on the low side? This would contribute to a low J5 reading. If not
> > then
> > > >>> double check the resistors R31, R32 & R35; as to being 1% to and
10K
> &
> > > >>> 100K.
> > > >>
> > > >> The VGnd voltage is about 3.95v -- so it is on the low side.  Could
> > this be
> > > >> a result of my power supply being on the 12.5v?  Does it matter?
> Those
> > 3
> > > >> resistors are all very close to their target values (<0.5% error).
> > > >
> > > > 3.95v is at 1.25%, darn good. Lets see, 1.8v/2.0v = 10%. That is why
I
> > > > believe it should be higher. Maybe check the specs on the DVM you
are
> > > > using. It may be loading the circuit.
> > >
> > > Hmmm.  Unfortunately I don't have the manual for this unit anymore.
Its
> a
> > > Sperry DM-4100A... nothing fancy just your basic DVM.  Should I go and
> > > invest in something better?  Recommendations?
> > >
> > >
> > > > You can try the tests, if they wwork good. If not, then do not worry
> > > > about it.
> > >
> > > Heh, this seems like an interesting testing policy.  :)
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >   Andrew
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 7
> > > From: Djfreggens at aol.com
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:46:57 EDT
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] v6 4.3 ecms. Got Code ??
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > yes vortec can you share please ??
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 8
> > > From: "Bruce" <nacelp at bright.net>
> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 1995 20:28:04 -0400
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Andrew Brownsword" <asword at telus.net>
> > > >Can flux cause shorts?
> > >
> > > Once upon I time I used fluxs.  Now only on heavy guage wiring harness
> > type
> > > work.  They can etch the board,
> > > They can cause high resistance *traces*
> > > These resistances can vary with temp., and yes I was using non acid
> > > versions.
> > > Some electrical supply sources sell areosol neutrilizers, and
cleaners.
> > > I've had consistant good luck just using regular flux type solders,
> Kester
> > > being the only one I use now.  The archives have some other opinions
> about
> > > solders
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 9
> > > From: "Robert A. Ward Sr." <rawardsr at ameritech.net>
> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 21:54:15 -0400
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > At work we use organic core solder with water soluble flux, mainly
> alcohol
> > > with a mild hydrochloric acid. Wash the boards with plain water and
dry.
> > > Just have to make sure all your water sensitive components are sealed.
> All
> > > are boards leave clean as a whistle :-)
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Bruce" <nacelp at bright.net>
> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 1995 8:28 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Andrew Brownsword" <asword at telus.net>
> > > > >Can flux cause shorts?
> > > >
> > > > Once upon I time I used fluxs.  Now only on heavy guage wiring
harness
> > > type
> > > > work.  They can etch the board,
> > > > They can cause high resistance *traces*
> > > > These resistances can vary with temp., and yes I was using non acid
> > > > versions.
> > > > Some electrical supply sources sell areosol neutrilizers, and
> cleaners.
> > > > I've had consistant good luck just using regular flux type solders,
> > Kester
> > > > being the only one I use now.  The archives have some other opinions
> > about
> > > > solders
> > > > Bruce
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 10
> > > From: "95_HCMS" <sandoren at worldnet.att.net>
> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:11:58 -0700
> > > Subject: [Diy_efi] coolant temperature sensor extension (?!)
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > >
> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C22F58.27B3D680
> > > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >
> > > I pulled out my coolant sensor while working to replace my water pump
=
> > > and thermostat.
> > >
> > > Strange (?), the sensor is mounted in an extension.  The aluminum =
> > > extension has what looks to be a sensor on the end of it.  When I =
> > > seperated the two, the actual sensor looks normal except for what
looks
> =
> > > like a little lithium grease inside the extension where the actual =
> > > sensor resides.
> > >
> > > What's odd, is that the threads on the extension are the same size =
> > > threads on the sensor.
> > >
> > > Why would this combination exist?  Am I missing something, here?
> > >
> > > Can I dump the extension and just put only the sensor back in the
block?
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any incite into this combination/situation?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C22F58.27B3D680
> > > Content-Type: text/html;
> > > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >
> > > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > > <HTML><HEAD>
> > > <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> > > charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> > > <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
> > > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > > </HEAD>
> > > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I pulled out my coolant sensor while
=
> > > working to=20
> > > replace my water pump and thermostat.</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Strange (?), the sensor is mounted in
=
> > > an=20
> > > extension.&nbsp; The aluminum extension has what looks to be a sensor
on
> =
> > > the end=20
> > > of it.&nbsp; When I seperated the two, the actual sensor looks normal
=
> > > except for=20
> > > what looks like a little lithium grease inside the extension where the
=
> > > actual=20
> > > sensor resides.</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What's odd, is that the threads on
the
> =
> > > extension=20
> > > are the same size threads&nbsp;on the sensor.</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Why would this combination
exist?&nbsp;
> =
> > > Am I=20
> > > missing something, here?</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Can I dump the extension and just put
=
> > > only the=20
> > > sensor back in the block?</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have any incite into
> this=20
> > > combination/situation?</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> > >
> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C22F58.27B3D680--
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 11
> > > From: "Bruce" <nacelp at bright.net>
> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] coolant temperature sensor extension (?!)
> > > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 1995 22:59:50 -0400
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > >
> > > ------=_NextPart_000_070E_01BA562B.5A6BB2E0
> > > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >
> > >
> > > Might be there to dampen the sensors response.
> > > ie be there to cover for not enough filtering in the code, and
resultant
> =
> > > timing/fuel corrections, that result in a lack of smoothness in the
way
> =
> > > the engine runs.
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > >   ----- Original Message -----=20
> > >   From: 95_HCMS=20
> > >   To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org=20
> > >   Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 10:11 PM
> > >   Subject: [Diy_efi] coolant temperature sensor extension (?!)
> > >
> > >
> > >   I pulled out my coolant sensor while working to replace my water
pump
> =
> > > and thermostat.
> > >
> > >   Strange (?), the sensor is mounted in an extension.  The aluminum =
> > > extension has what looks to be a sensor on the end of it.  When I =
> > > seperated the two, the actual sensor looks normal except for what
looks
> =
> > > like a little lithium grease inside the extension where the actual =
> > > sensor resides.
> > >
> > >   What's odd, is that the threads on the extension are the same size =
> > > threads on the sensor.
> > >
> > >   Why would this combination exist?  Am I missing something, here?
> > >
> > >   Can I dump the extension and just put only the sensor back in the =
> > > block?
> > >
> > >   Does anyone have any incite into this combination/situation?
> > >
> > >   Thanks,
> > >
> > >   Bob
> > >
> > > ------=_NextPart_000_070E_01BA562B.5A6BB2E0
> > > Content-Type: text/html;
> > > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > >
> > > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > > <HTML><HEAD>
> > > <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> > > charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> > > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4728.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
> > > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > > </HEAD>
> > > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Might be there to dampen the
sensors=20
> > > response.</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>ie be&nbsp;there to cover for not =
> > > enough filtering=20
> > > in the code, and resultant timing/fuel corrections, that result in a =
> > > lack of=20
> > > smoothness in the way the engine runs.</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bruce</FONT></DIV>
> > > <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > > <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
> > > style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
> > > BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
> > >   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> > >   <DIV=20
> > >   style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
> > > black"><B>From:</B>=20
> > >   <A title=3Dsandoren at worldnet.att.net=20
> > >   href=3D"mailto:sandoren at worldnet.att.net">95_HCMS</A> </DIV>
> > >   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
> > > title=3Ddiy_efi at diy-efi.org=20
> > >   href=3D"mailto:diy_efi at diy-efi.org">diy_efi at diy-efi.org</A> </DIV>
> > >   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 19, 2002 =
> > > 10:11=20
> > > PM</DIV>
> > >   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Diy_efi] coolant =
> > > temperature=20
> > >   sensor extension (?!)</DIV>
> > >   <DIV><BR></DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I pulled out my coolant sensor
while
> =
> > > working to=20
> > >   replace my water pump and thermostat.</FONT></DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Strange (?), the sensor is mounted
in
> =
> > > an=20
> > >   extension.&nbsp; The aluminum extension has what looks to be a
sensor
> =
> > > on the=20
> > >   end of it.&nbsp; When I seperated the two, the actual sensor looks =
> > > normal=20
> > >   except for what looks like a little lithium grease inside the =
> > > extension where=20
> > >   the actual sensor resides.</FONT></DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What's odd, is that the threads on
=
> > > the extension=20
> > >   are the same size threads&nbsp;on the sensor.</FONT></DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Why would this combination =
> > > exist?&nbsp; Am I=20
> > >   missing something, here?</FONT></DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Can I dump the extension and just
put
> =
> > > only the=20
> > >   sensor back in the block?</FONT></DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have any incite into
this
> =
> > >
> > >   combination/situation?</FONT></DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> > >   <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
> > > size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
> > >
> > > ------=_NextPart_000_070E_01BA562B.5A6BB2E0--
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > Message: 12
> > > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 23:08:32 -0400
> > > From: Shannen Durphey <shannen at grolen.com>
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DIY-WB construction & testing... help
> > > Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > LOL!!!
> > >
> > > I was very careful to install everything correctly.  When the LED
> wouldn't
> > > work, and the tests were all passing, I referred to a prior post from
> > Bruce
> > > R which said "If all tests are good, and the LED doesn't light, the
LED
> is
> > > probably reversed."  I chalked it up to a late night mistake and just
> > > swapped the leads.  If the el cheapo DVOM had been able to test LED
> > > polarity, it wouldn't have ever happened.
> > >
> > > <g>
> > > Shannen
> > >
> > > "Gregory A. Parmer" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Absodamnlutely. I wrote that and it's been reviewed, even. Ouch.
> > > > I'll gladly make the update as soon as I can figure out exactly
> > > > how to reword it. Thank goodness there's only a single LED.
> > > >
> > > > -greg   the #1 Dummy
> > > >
> > > > > Who's website is that anyhow?  Perhaps an update is in order...
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for the info guys,
> > > > >   Andrew
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > on 7/19/02 10:41 AM, Scott Campbell at oneslowalltrac at yahoo.com
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Oops I spoke too soon.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The length of the lead, and the position of the flat
> > > > > > spot varies between LED manufacturers.  However the
> > > > > > Cathode can be identified by holding the LED up to the
> > > > > > light.  The larger of terminal inside is the Cathode.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Scott.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- Scott Campbell <oneslowalltrac at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > > > >> Hi Andrew,
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> As you now know, that description of Anode/Cathode
> > > > > >> identification is backward.
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> On an LED, the Anode(+) is identified by the longer
> > > > > >> lead and/or a flat on the side of the LED.  The
> > > > > >> Cathode(-) is the shorter lead.
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> (pin 2) Cathode ----|<|---- Anode (pin 1)
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Scott.
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> --- Andrew Brownsword <asword at telus.net> wrote:
> > > > > >>>>> on 7/18/02 2:27 PM, rr at RRauscher at nni.com
> > > > > >> wrote:
> > > > > >>> I reversed it and now it works fine.  I had it
> > > > > >>> backward because this page
> > > > > >>>
> > > > > >> http://www.aces.edu/~gparmer/efi/temp/wb/guide.html
> > > > > >>> says:
> > > > > >>>
> > > > > >>> "The cathode (+) is identified by end having the
> > > > > >>> stripe , a "+" marking, or
> > > > > >>> a longer lead. Also notable is that the LED has a
> > > > > >>> flat spot machined on side
> > > > > >>> of the lens corresponding to the anode (-). On the
> > > > > >>> schematic, the cathode is
> > > > > >>> the base of the triangle and the anode is the
> > > > > >>> straight bar with the triangle
> > > > > >>> pointing at it. Notice that the cathode (+) being
> > > > > >>> identified by a stripe is
> > > > > >>> a theme repeated on the circuit board (even for
> > > > > >>> diodes like the LED which
> > > > > >>> are not identified this way). If the leads have
> > > > > >>> already been cut on your
> > > > > >>> LED, look inside the diode. You'll notice two
> > > > > >> hunks
> > > > > >>> of metal. The larger is
> > > > > >>> the anode."
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --__--__--
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> > >
> > > End of Diy_efi Digest
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>
>
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