My WB refuses to work....

[TROYXTROY]

Thanks for the reply Bruce.  I'm happy to say that it was a simple error on
my part.  I didn't realize that J12 had to be connected to ground.  I
thought that it was just for the neg. lead of my multimeter.  Now that I
have it connected to ground, I'm reading 4.00 volts on the nose in free air!
Thanks
-Troy
----- Original Message -----
From: <bcroe at juno.com>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 1:07 PM
Subject: My WB refuses to work....


> It would be safer to get the tests to pass before connecting
> the sensor.
>
> You say there is 13.15v from J12 to batt (-).  That's not possible
> with proper connection.  J12 should be connected to batt (-), as
> well as J4.  Also batt + (14 volts) should be connected to J11 and
> J3.  Try this (without sensor) and see if you get about 8 volts across
> C6.  Then look for 4 volts on J7 and 2.5 volts on J9, both measured
> relative to J12.  If so you are looking good, so rerun all the electrical
>
> tests.
>
> good luck, Bruce Roe
>
> On Thu, 28 Feb 2002 01:22:39 -0500 "TROYXTROY" <TROYXTROY at cox.net>
> writes:
> >  I did the tests mentioned in the Dummy's Guide to Building
> > a WB web page and the heater circuit  checked out ok.
> > When i tried the tests mentioned for the servo
> > circuit, things didn't check out at all.
>
>
> > Some of my testing showed the following:
> >
> > With the one end of the 100ohm resistor on J7 and the other on J5&6,
> > i'm getting approx. 12.5v from J7 to J12.  i should be seeing
> > approx.  4v.
> >
> > These tests were performed with the sensor connected:
> > car bat voltage = 14v
> > led: on
> > sensor: hot
> > J8 to J12 = 0v
> > Bat(-) to J8 = 12.6v
> > Bat(-) to J12 = 13.15v
> > J6 to J12 = -.006v
> > J6 to Bat(-) = 13.13v
> > J6 to J7 = -.006v
> > J5 to J7 = .001v
> > J5 to Bat(-) = 13.5v
> > Cathode side of D9 to J8 = -.373v
>
>
> > -Troy
>
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