[Diy_efi] Re: DIY_EFI Digest V6 #92
Arty Ross
artyr at eatel.net
Sat May 4 20:00:54 GMT 2002
At 01:00 AM 4/14/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>THIS IS THE diy_efi-digest LIST
>
>
>DIY_EFI Digest Sunday, April 14 2002 Volume 06 : Number 092
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
> Re: Propane/water/alcohol injection and O2 sensors
> Re: Propane/water/alcohol injection and O2 sensors
> Re: Bosch c/l advance
> WB O2 sensor Sumitomo connectors - recieved
> WB O2 sensor Sumitomo connectors - recieved
> RE: WB testing problems
> Re: WB testing problems
> Re: Bosch c/l advance
> Re: Bosch c/l advance
> RE: WB testing problems
>
>To unsubscribe from THIS list, send 'unsubscribe diy_efi-digest' (without the
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>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 07:30:54 -0500
From: "Phil" <rjp at teknology.net>
>Subject: Re: Propane/water/alcohol injection and O2 sensors
>
>For those of you that incorporate H2O injection in your forced induction
>engine and intake tracts, you may want to take a look at this item I found
>the other day. Hope this is of some use.
>http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/water_injection.htm
>
>Regards...
>Phil
>- -----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>- ----- Original Message -----
From: Garfield Willis <garwillis at msn.com>
>To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:37 PM
>Subject: Re: Propane/water/alcohol injection and O2 sensors
>
>
> > On Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:29:12 -0700, bearbvd at mindspring.com (Greg Hermann)
>wrote:
> >
> > >BTU/gallon and BTU/lb mean virtually NOTHING to an engine's HP output.
>What
> > >MATTERS is BTU released PER MOLE OF O2 breathed by the engine per unit of
> > >time !!
> >
> > Yeah, it's all about them *two* trees. As in calorimetry *plus*
>stoichiometry.
> > And of course, the more moles the better; they don't seem to bother the
>trees.
> >
> > Gar
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>- --
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> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
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>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 07:30:54 -0500
From: "Phil" <rjp at teknology.net>
>Subject: Re: Propane/water/alcohol injection and O2 sensors
>
>For those of you that incorporate H2O injection in your forced induction
>engine and intake tracts, you may want to take a look at this item I found
>the other day. Hope this is of some use.
>http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/water_injection.htm
>
>Regards...
>Phil
>- -----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>- ----- Original Message -----
From: Garfield Willis <garwillis at msn.com>
>To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:37 PM
>Subject: Re: Propane/water/alcohol injection and O2 sensors
>
>
> > On Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:29:12 -0700, bearbvd at mindspring.com (Greg Hermann)
>wrote:
> >
> > >BTU/gallon and BTU/lb mean virtually NOTHING to an engine's HP output.
>What
> > >MATTERS is BTU released PER MOLE OF O2 breathed by the engine per unit of
> > >time !!
> >
> > Yeah, it's all about them *two* trees. As in calorimetry *plus*
>stoichiometry.
> > And of course, the more moles the better; they don't seem to bother the
>trees.
> >
> > Gar
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>- --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
>quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
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>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 14:02:56 +0100
From: "William Shurvinton" <shurvinton at orange.net>
>Subject: Re: Bosch c/l advance
>
>What numbers are you running at le sarthe this year? It will be nice to have
>someone to cheer from the campsite
>
>Bill
>- ----- Original Message -----
From: Frank F Parker <fparker at umich.edu>
>To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 2:38 AM
>Subject: Re: Bosch c/l advance
> > There is some improvements to 7L coming but big change for this year is a
> > revised Hewlanf transaxle that is lighter and more integrated with other
> > car components. Lighter is always better.
> >
> > frank
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 08:42:18 -0700
From: Doug Dayson <djdayson at attbi.com>
>Subject: WB O2 sensor Sumitomo connectors - recieved
>
>Recieved my two and the refund in the mail, thanks Bryan!
>
>Is there and documentation about assembling them correctly anywhere?
>I don't have my O2 Sensor yet so I don't have anything to look at...
>
>Thanks again, your work is most appreciated...
>
>Doug
>
>Bryan Zublin wrote:
> >
> > I received 300 connectors last week and starting shipping today to the
> > first 19 people on the list. All 300 are sold out. I have ordered an
> > additional 500 connectors. I will post pricing information on my web page
> > (http://www.zublin.com/Sumitomo/WBO2ConnectorPurchase.htm) once I have
> > received the new shipment. There is no need to prepay or reserve your
> > order at this time, I think 500 connectors will last quite a long time.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bryan Zublin
> >
> > ----- End of forwarded message from owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org -----
> >
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
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>- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
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>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 08:42:18 -0700
From: Doug Dayson <djdayson at attbi.com>
>Subject: WB O2 sensor Sumitomo connectors - recieved
>
>Recieved my two and the refund in the mail, thanks Bryan!
>
>Is there and documentation about assembling them correctly anywhere?
>I don't have my O2 Sensor yet so I don't have anything to look at...
>
>Thanks again, your work is most appreciated...
>
>Doug
>
>Bryan Zublin wrote:
> >
> > I received 300 connectors last week and starting shipping today to the
> > first 19 people on the list. All 300 are sold out. I have ordered an
> > additional 500 connectors. I will post pricing information on my web page
> > (http://www.zublin.com/Sumitomo/WBO2ConnectorPurchase.htm) once I have
> > received the new shipment. There is no need to prepay or reserve your
> > order at this time, I think 500 connectors will last quite a long time.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bryan Zublin
> >
> > ----- End of forwarded message from owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org -----
> >
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
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>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:12:59 -0400
From: Stephen Andersen <SAndersen at advan-tek.com>
>Subject: RE: WB testing problems
>
>My Multimeter is a Fluke 79. I have also tested
>it with my cheapo Goldstar digital meter. No change.
>I did the check with the 100k resistor to the +4V side
>of R38 and I get 7.8 volts, but still 6.75-6.8 at pin
>5 of U3 even with a 100k inline.
>
>Any ideas from anyone, or should I just continue with
>the rest of the tests? Anything obvious that it could be?
>
>Thanks,
>Steve
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of bcroe at juno.com
> > Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 1:11 AM
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Cc: Stephen Andersen
> > Subject: WB testing problems
> >
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > Possibly the problem is your voltmeter. If it is not a high
> > impedance (usually digital) type, it may load down the
> > circuit. Try connecting your meter to J12, and through a
> > 100,000 ohm resistor to the + 4V end of R38. If you see
> > the same 6.75 volts, it's just the meter.
> >
> > 98K is plenty close enough for R38.
> >
> > Bruce Roe
> >
> > On Fri, 12 Apr 2002 21:31:55 -0400 Stephen Andersen
> > <SAndersen at advan-tek.com> writes:
> > > Okay, I am testing out my assembled WB board using the
> > > www.diy-wb.com instructions. I worked up thru step 14,
> > > but I ran into a wall at step 12. Measuring from pin
> > > 5 on U3 to J12, with 14 volt input, I get 6.75V.
> > > According to the instructions, I am supposed to get
> > > 7.9-8.0 volts. It says to check R38, C12, and ISO1.
> > > Since I dunno how to check C12 or ISO1, I replaced
> > > them with extras. I also checked R38 and got 98k Ohms.
> > > It is supposed to be 100k.
> >
> > > Steve
> > > andersen at advan-tek.com
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > --------------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi"
> > (without the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> > majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 18:29:27 -0400
From: rr <RRauscher at nni.com>
>Subject: Re: WB testing problems
>
>In this case the cap C12 may be a little leaky. To check that
>lift one of the cap pins and re-check. If no change then short
>together pins 1 & 2 on the ISO1. May be some leakage in
>that portion of the heater control circuit.
>
>Most definately run through the rest of the checks.
>
>To Renaud, I've printed your post and have yet to get to
>it. Just been so dang busy. I do know that your second to last
>line is a problem. This is the one with 0v on U2 pin 13.
>
>BobR.
>
>Stephen Andersen wrote:
>
> > My Multimeter is a Fluke 79. I have also tested
> > it with my cheapo Goldstar digital meter. No change.
> > I did the check with the 100k resistor to the +4V side
> > of R38 and I get 7.8 volts, but still 6.75-6.8 at pin
> > 5 of U3 even with a 100k inline.
> >
> > Any ideas from anyone, or should I just continue with
> > the rest of the tests? Anything obvious that it could be?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org]On
> > > Behalf Of bcroe at juno.com
> > > Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 1:11 AM
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Cc: Stephen Andersen
> > > Subject: WB testing problems
> > >
> > >
> > > Steve,
> > >
> > > Possibly the problem is your voltmeter. If it is not a high
> > > impedance (usually digital) type, it may load down the
> > > circuit. Try connecting your meter to J12, and through a
> > > 100,000 ohm resistor to the + 4V end of R38. If you see
> > > the same 6.75 volts, it's just the meter.
> > >
> > > 98K is plenty close enough for R38.
> > >
> > > Bruce Roe
> > >
> > > On Fri, 12 Apr 2002 21:31:55 -0400 Stephen Andersen
> > > <SAndersen at advan-tek.com> writes:
> > > > Okay, I am testing out my assembled WB board using the
> > > > www.diy-wb.com instructions. I worked up thru step 14,
> > > > but I ran into a wall at step 12. Measuring from pin
> > > > 5 on U3 to J12, with 14 volt input, I get 6.75V.
> > > > According to the instructions, I am supposed to get
> > > > 7.9-8.0 volts. It says to check R38, C12, and ISO1.
> > > > Since I dunno how to check C12 or ISO1, I replaced
> > > > them with extras. I also checked R38 and got 98k Ohms.
> > > > It is supposed to be 100k.
> > >
> > > > Steve
> > > > andersen at advan-tek.com
> > > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > > --------------
> > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi"
> > > (without the quotes)
> > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> > > majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> >
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
>
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>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:26:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Frank F Parker <fparker at umich.edu>
>Subject: Re: Bosch c/l advance
>
> > What numbers are you running at le sarthe this year? It will be nice to
> have
> > someone to cheer from the campsite
> > Bill
>
>The 63 car is Ron Fellows, Johnny O'Connell, and Oliver Gavin. The 64 car
>is Andy Pilgrim, Franck Freon, and Kelly Collins. The semi truck with
>spares and equiptment left for France for prequalifying last week. Goes
>to NJ, then boat to England and overland to LeMans. Cars fly later this
>month, prequalify in 2 4 hr sessions on May 5th, then stay there while
>we race new 2002 cars at Sears Point later in May, returning in early
>June to LM for race. If you are there, stop and say hello!
>
>regards,
>
>frank
>
>
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>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:38:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Frank F Parker <fparker at umich.edu>
>Subject: Re: Bosch c/l advance
>
> > BTW, I presume you guys were running CL fueling with the Bosch ecm as
> well? Or
> > not?
>
>Yes, closed loop on that too, tho I am not privy to the details of how
>it is utilized tho the sensors do seem to last along time. I have some old
>ones from last years winning LeMans car and I tried them in a Motec LSM11
>controller box and they work fine after 24 hard hours in race car- not
>supprising I guess but kinda neat anyway.
>
> > Interesting, I wonder if Bosch is still working on that whole package
> for their
> > showcase LSUs. Probly; takes lotsOtime if you wanna get it right.
>
>I'll ask the Bosch motorsports enginner that travels with us.
>
> > No changes to the suspension (other than the t-ax) or tires to speak
> of, then?
>
>Well...yes, but the old joke about if I tell, they will kill me!
>Alot of detail improvements like new crossmembers front and rear,
>replacing the stock cast aluminum ones with lighter, smaller versions
>using 4130.
>
>regards,
>
>frank
>
>
>- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 21:46:26 -0400
From: Stephen Andersen <SAndersen at advan-tek.com>
>Subject: RE: WB testing problems
>
>I replied to Bruce Roe privately and don't
>know whether I said it here, but I replaced
>C12 and ISO when I found the probelm.
>I am now getting nervous, as I lifted the pads
>off the board when removing the ISO with too
>much heat. I think I have repaired things
>effectively, but there was no change with the
>replacement parts. I will do as you suggest
>and see if that at least isolates the problem.
>
>Are you implying that even with this voltage
>"deficit" at this spot in the circuit that I
>may be okay?
>
>I will try to perform these checks in the next few
>days, and continue with the checkout of the circuit
>and report back.
>
>Thanks!
>Steve
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi at diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of rr
> > Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 6:29 PM
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: WB testing problems
> >
> > In this case the cap C12 may be a little leaky. To check that
> > lift one of the cap pins and re-check. If no change then short
> > together pins 1 & 2 on the ISO1. May be some leakage in
> > that portion of the heater control circuit.
> >
> > Most definately run through the rest of the checks.
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> >
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>
>------------------------------
>
>End of DIY_EFI Digest V6 #92
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>
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